Help: Engine Starts for 2 Seconds then Dies
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Help: Engine Starts for 2 Seconds then Dies
Engines all done everything put back on all smog , the engine is street ported, now that every things on , when i start it it cranks starts for like two secs then dies. the guy thats been working on it hasnt been around much , so all i have is me to do the work. last time he was here , he was messing with timing it. sooooo im kinda screwed as you can see. this cars sitting here all put together , and being i dont know **** about the timing , u can see where im coming from here. so any help will be greatly taken. thanks ps im willing to pay for some ones time to talk me threw this on the phone if anyones interested in making some money. thanks again.
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I'm not interested in money, but thanks anyway
I've had the same problem when i put my rebuilt engine in, because my AFM apparently got bumped good while it was out, and the fuel switch on the flapper door didn't work. .Easy way to test: there's a yellow, 2 prong connector in a rubber jacket that's on the passanger side. This is the fuel pump test jumper. Just jumper this with a piece of wire, you should hear the fuel pump pushing fuel throught the rails in the engine bay, when the car is turned to "on" (it will make a whirring sound). Try to start it. If it stays started, break out the FSM, and do the AFM check on it.
Other possiblity: your timing is all the hell out. Here's how to set it back to stock:
Turn the car off (obviously), pull the CAS out of its hole (there will be one bolt holding it down), remove a spark plug from each rotor (it will make it easier to spin), and rotate the engine, so that the yellow mark on the main pulley lines up with the timing mark on the front cover (it's alittle pin that sticks out). Rotate the gear on the CAS so that the divit lines up with the mark on the shaft, then slide that back down so that the bolt hole is pretty much centered along the slot. Take care not to rotate it at all when you slide it down.
You'll still need a timing gun to fine tune it, but that should get you in the area.
I've had the same problem when i put my rebuilt engine in, because my AFM apparently got bumped good while it was out, and the fuel switch on the flapper door didn't work. .Easy way to test: there's a yellow, 2 prong connector in a rubber jacket that's on the passanger side. This is the fuel pump test jumper. Just jumper this with a piece of wire, you should hear the fuel pump pushing fuel throught the rails in the engine bay, when the car is turned to "on" (it will make a whirring sound). Try to start it. If it stays started, break out the FSM, and do the AFM check on it.
Other possiblity: your timing is all the hell out. Here's how to set it back to stock:
Turn the car off (obviously), pull the CAS out of its hole (there will be one bolt holding it down), remove a spark plug from each rotor (it will make it easier to spin), and rotate the engine, so that the yellow mark on the main pulley lines up with the timing mark on the front cover (it's alittle pin that sticks out). Rotate the gear on the CAS so that the divit lines up with the mark on the shaft, then slide that back down so that the bolt hole is pretty much centered along the slot. Take care not to rotate it at all when you slide it down.
You'll still need a timing gun to fine tune it, but that should get you in the area.
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If you already set the timing and you know you have fuel theres a thread on how to set up a couple of leds as code flashers(mine didn't come with the check engine light) if you're car doesn't already have one. Make sure you didn't forget a ground or a sensor that's not hooked up. When I did my first build there where a few little things. Also you could try a bit of atf in a vaccuum line. It might help. just a couple caps full. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by brent clement
... theres a thread on how to set up a couple of leds as code flashers(mine didn't come with the check engine light) if you're car doesn't already have one....
And did you jumper the fuel pump test connection? You never said in your post whether you did the things I suggested, rather you just said "still doesn't work.".
#7
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go to your driver's side near where your battery is, there is a single pin green connector, put a wire to it and ground it to the frame.
how sit in the car and turn the key to "ON" but don't start the car, and it will spill error codes at the check engine light
see what error code it spits out
how sit in the car and turn the key to "ON" but don't start the car, and it will spill error codes at the check engine light
see what error code it spits out
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ok, i put a wire in the green pin next to the batteryann grounded it no codes came up on my lite, so now what.it seems to want to start just for asplit sec, im gonna check the plugs again see what i get there.my mechanic says the timings dead on so ill keep checking, ive sprayed some carb cleaner down the tb , when i do that it seems to turn over like its gonna start , but still nothing.
Last edited by RX7FROMCAL; 09-18-05 at 04:31 PM.
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Originally Posted by RX7FROMCAL
what is the cas????
Try restabbing the CAS, turn the engine over by hand until the alignment pin is aligned to the yellow mark on the pulley. Unplug the CAS, unbolt it, pull it out, align the raised marker with the "dimple" that is on the bottom of the CAS where the gear is (there is only one way to align it). Then take the cap off the top to expose the inner gear, hold it in place, and put the CAS back into the front cover. It will most likely need to move a tad to line up, but that'll get your timing very close.
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To recap , its not throwing codes, im thinking its a fuel thing. pulled the fuel pump like i have the last three times, lol antbody have a pic of how the fuel pump should be hooked up , this things been taken apart aout 15 times , so im thinking somethings screwed up there, thanks rx7fromcal
#18
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OK, my 2 cents worth, from new guy with same problem, once. On my 90, under the air intake duct going to the throttle body, there are two hoses, one to the BAC, and the other to the back of the manifold, if they aren't connected, same issue. I hooked them back up, cause I forgot to , and all worked fine. Hope this helps, maybe.
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#20
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Originally Posted by Mombodogs
OK, my 2 cents worth, from new guy with same problem, once. On my 90, under the air intake duct going to the throttle body, there are two hoses, one to the BAC, and the other to the back of the manifold, if they aren't connected, same issue. I hooked them back up, cause I forgot to , and all worked fine. Hope this helps, maybe.
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#21
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well checked all the fuel connections , all is good so im going back to the last place i finished on working . that was sodering the caps to the top of the injectors. i had a freind look at the sodering job in did, lol and it sucked. sooooooo we redid that and hopefully will try to crank it over later today. for all of you who have helped me out here, thanks alot people from the the bottom of my heart you all have been great . thank you so much again. rx7fromcal
#22
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Do you hear your injectors clicking when you turn the ignition to on? Are you sure your injectors are getting good connections? You can try applying 12v to one pin and ground the other and they should click, but only do this for a split second. You can also spin the CAS by hand and see if you can hear the injectors firing or not.
#23
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i just combatted a vaccum problem that is similar
the reason for my car idling and dying is because of vaccum leaks around the ACV gasket, i've used gasketpaper at first but it didn't do so well, so i blocked it off for various reasons, still didn't do too well, finally i used RTV black gasket maker and the vaccum leak is gone... so i think u should also think of a vac leak that can be the cause
sometimes vac leaks can occur at idle, sometimes only on boost, so its not easy to troubleshoot...
the reason for my car idling and dying is because of vaccum leaks around the ACV gasket, i've used gasketpaper at first but it didn't do so well, so i blocked it off for various reasons, still didn't do too well, finally i used RTV black gasket maker and the vaccum leak is gone... so i think u should also think of a vac leak that can be the cause
sometimes vac leaks can occur at idle, sometimes only on boost, so its not easy to troubleshoot...
#24
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well , good point , but i had a teck check out the fuel system he says it getting fuel to the injectors , but the computer isnt openning the injectors for some reason , so thats where im at so far.the dam thing wants to start, i have the kick panel of looking at the computer, it seems thats where all this **** started 7 months back when the guys where tuning the map ecu, and the car to a **** then.im still plucking away at it. thanks rx7fromcal
#25
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The injectors get 12v at both wires when ignition is on. The CAS spins and tells which injector to fire and when by grounding the pin on the ECU. Do what I said above to check to see if they fire or not. The car doesnt have to be running or anything and it's fairly easy but you will have to restab your CAS and redo the timing. Or you can just check the resistance from the injector connectors to the ECU end of the harness.