Help electrical problem
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Respect Brotha!
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Laredo, Tx
Help electrical problem
Ok, was coming home and all of a sudden all my idiot lights turned on at 500 rpm and my voltage drop to 12 solid sometimes go up a little bit but at every stop when the rpms drop at 500 the idiot light turn on, does anybody happen something like this?
Hope is not the alternator just bought it from silverrotor.
Thx
MAx
Hope is not the alternator just bought it from silverrotor.
Thx
MAx
Thread Starter
Respect Brotha!
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 384
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From: Laredo, Tx
Yeah well I just went and the belts seem's to be properly adjusted but i'll adjust them tomorrow again, and btw before that happen I rev the car to 7k 2 times i don't know if heat has to do something with it?
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From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Not really sure why it'd start acting up, but it's definatly something to do with the alternator, either you just got some bad luck from silverrotor, or there's something else askew.
Thread Starter
Respect Brotha!
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Laredo, Tx
but the only thing i don't understand the voltage stays at 12, when i screw up my fc alternator voltage drop dow very fast in other words i was just using the battery, and this just stays at the same place the i just rev the car to 1k, 1200 and the voltage raise to 12 1/2 almost 13.
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Well, considering the alternator has the voltage regulator on it, and your idiot lights won't all light up unless there's a problem with the alternator, I'd say it has everything to do with it. 
Thread Starter
Respect Brotha!
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 384
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From: Laredo, Tx
ummm. the problem is that my idiotlights start to light up when the car drop from 900 to 600 rpm but when i rev it up to 1k the lights shut off and everything is normal except the voltage, the voltage stay the same way sometimes raise up to 13 volts when it should be at 14 15 volts with all the lights off
Damn MAX. You and your ricer logic!!!! lol
This **** happened to me with my other alt. Redlined to 7grand in first the volts shot up to 18 then droped to 11 the next day my car died. :-/
Good thing you kept that old FC alt.
Go to autozone to test the FD alt.
This **** happened to me with my other alt. Redlined to 7grand in first the volts shot up to 18 then droped to 11 the next day my car died. :-/
Good thing you kept that old FC alt.
Go to autozone to test the FD alt.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Your alternator is rapidly dying. Replace it before you kill the battery as well. 
Also, your engine speed should not be dropping to 500 RPM at idle. Idle should be a 750 RPM. Clean the BAC valve, then go through the idle setting procedure and check for vacuum leaks.
Also, your engine speed should not be dropping to 500 RPM at idle. Idle should be a 750 RPM. Clean the BAC valve, then go through the idle setting procedure and check for vacuum leaks.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
New or rebuilt? Most of the rebuilts are terrible quality. The only rebuilt alternators I would trust would be from Mazda.
His alternator can easily fail (the voltage reg, which is what has died here) if there is another electrical problem in the car (ie. dead battery, overloaded electrical system).
Just because parts are new, does not mean they are good.
But as mentioned, you should have it tested first.
His alternator can easily fail (the voltage reg, which is what has died here) if there is another electrical problem in the car (ie. dead battery, overloaded electrical system).
Just because parts are new, does not mean they are good.
But as mentioned, you should have it tested first.
We are testing that stuff later on tonight. Hoepfully it is ok if not then there goes that investment. :-/
Maybe I will just get an S5 if I can kill an FD that easily.
Maybe I will just get an S5 if I can kill an FD that easily.
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Just saw your thread. Have you confirmed it was the alternator? My S5 had the original alternator for 12 years. Replaced 9 months ago with a remanufactured from the local parts store - mitsubishi brand. Everything was fine until I took the RX for the emissions inspection. It passed, and I drove home. The next day I started the RX and all the idiot lights came on the the voltage meter read 15 - 16. I presumed the voltage regulator died. The parts store was not able the test the alt, since they did not have the matching plug, but they gave me another remanufactured. Popped it in and the car measured 14 at start up, then dropped to 12 then varied just below and above 12, regardless of increasing the load (lights, fan, windows, etc.). The following day while driving 10 miles everything was the same for the first 5 miles, then the voltage began to drop until no lights/radio/etc, but the car kept running until I made it to my destination. By this point the meter read 5 volts.
Any idea if I have some other problem that is killing alternators? Or just bad luck with the reman. My RX is stock - so I presume no load issues. The parts store did test the battery the first time and said it was OK. Could the emissions test tech have knocked something/shorted something (any idea what?) Any help would be great. PS - I was thinking of replacing it with one of SilverRotars, so I am curious how Maxi-mal is doing with your replacement.
Any idea if I have some other problem that is killing alternators? Or just bad luck with the reman. My RX is stock - so I presume no load issues. The parts store did test the battery the first time and said it was OK. Could the emissions test tech have knocked something/shorted something (any idea what?) Any help would be great. PS - I was thinking of replacing it with one of SilverRotars, so I am curious how Maxi-mal is doing with your replacement.