help! diy pilot bearing removal
09-11-12, 02:49 PM
#1
help! diy pilot bearing removal
Alright, need to remove a vw pilot bearing from my FC (engine was in a sand rail) and install the stock bearing. All rental pullers are broken our out of stock!! Trying to make it to seven stock. Anyone have any ideas?
I've been thinking about the grease idea but i've never actually done that method. Help a fellow rotor out! Lol
I've been thinking about the grease idea but i've never actually done that method. Help a fellow rotor out! Lol
09-11-12, 03:34 PM
#3
What are the bearing's dimensions, specifically the Inner Diameter and Length? Harbor Freight's pilot bearing puller works pretty well, but needs the jaws carefully ground down where they come together to fit inside a rotary's pilot bearing. Depending on the ID of the VW bearing, the puller may slip inside it once you grind it to fit the stock pilot bearing. I believe the stock pilot bearing is 14mm ID when measured on the rollers.
The downside to using a dremel & suitable bit is that one becomes committed to it as soon as they start, because the bearing case's integrity is compromised and probably could not be removed with a puller once the grinding has started. Better to use the correct tool from the start.
I've never attempted the grease trick, but whatever tool you use to pack the grease in would have to fit the bearing and have incredibly small clearances or the grease would just splooge out through the gaps between the bearing and tool. Investing in a puller turns an hour-long nightmare full of colorful language into 20 seconds of enjoyment. The first time you use it, it pays for itself.
The downside to using a dremel & suitable bit is that one becomes committed to it as soon as they start, because the bearing case's integrity is compromised and probably could not be removed with a puller once the grinding has started. Better to use the correct tool from the start.
I've never attempted the grease trick, but whatever tool you use to pack the grease in would have to fit the bearing and have incredibly small clearances or the grease would just splooge out through the gaps between the bearing and tool. Investing in a puller turns an hour-long nightmare full of colorful language into 20 seconds of enjoyment. The first time you use it, it pays for itself.
09-11-12, 03:45 PM
#4
never had an issue, in fact it works better than the puller in most cases since the bearings won't always cooperate with the puller. grinding it always works for me, the puller method maybe 30% since the bearing is too small already and just flexes the puller jaws.
never tried the grease trick, some recommended shoving bits of soap inside so it has less ability to work around your center punch.
never tried the grease trick, some recommended shoving bits of soap inside so it has less ability to work around your center punch.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-11-12 at 03:47 PM.
09-11-12, 03:59 PM
#5
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Ditto on the dremel it worked best for me, the puller wouldnt get it out.
Would also recommend, getting the pilot bearing from mazda, Ive had 2 aftermarket ones (autozone/o'reillys) go bad in my car. So far the Mazda one has been good for 3 years now. Maybe I just had bad luck who knows.
Would also recommend, getting the pilot bearing from mazda, Ive had 2 aftermarket ones (autozone/o'reillys) go bad in my car. So far the Mazda one has been good for 3 years now. Maybe I just had bad luck who knows.
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09-11-12, 06:22 PM
#10
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Not to hijack, but I've just run into this same problem today too.
I don't want to mess around with cutting it. I borrowed the Mazda tool last time and it worked great!
If someone has a Mazda tool laying around and wouldn't mind lending it to me for a few days, I'll pay shipping, throw you a couple bucks to buy yourself a case of beer, and pinky swear to mail it back the same day!
I don't want to mess around with cutting it. I borrowed the Mazda tool last time and it worked great!
If someone has a Mazda tool laying around and wouldn't mind lending it to me for a few days, I'll pay shipping, throw you a couple bucks to buy yourself a case of beer, and pinky swear to mail it back the same day!
09-11-12, 06:30 PM
#11
I have pulled a 90 vert pilot and an 88 turbo II with this too. No modification, no muss, no fuss.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...argain-812501/
I am changing my clutch on the 90 Vert. I bought this pilot bearing tool for $39 at Harbor Tool (AKA Jack's Favorite Tool Store).
The thing worked like a champ, perfect fit, about 7-8 slams with the hammer and the Pilot bearing popped right out. It looks to be completely undamaged., meaning that the jaws fit perfectly behind the bearing.
The puller has a nice molded case and is a smokin' bargain.
Yes, that is the pilot bearing and the pilot bearing seal still on the end of the puller.
The thing worked like a champ, perfect fit, about 7-8 slams with the hammer and the Pilot bearing popped right out. It looks to be completely undamaged., meaning that the jaws fit perfectly behind the bearing.
The puller has a nice molded case and is a smokin' bargain.
Yes, that is the pilot bearing and the pilot bearing seal still on the end of the puller.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...argain-812501/
09-11-12, 09:48 PM
#13
I've seen someone pull a pilot bearing for a dollar.. just get a candle cram pieces of wax into the hole until full, and use a similar diameter tool, ie. The end of a big drill bit etc. To jam the wax in until it forces the bearing out.. worked for us
09-11-12, 11:42 PM
#14
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Like RotaryEvolution I swear by my Dremel.
You cut the edges and expose the roller pin bearing assembly or just plain dig at it, and get that stuff out with needle nose pliers.
Then use the Grinding bit that looks like a Drill bit and slowly make a groove into the casing of the Bearing(that is left in the shaft).
Once you groove it enough,you can get a screwdriver to collapse a side of the bearing and pull out the whole casing with needle nose pliers.
You cut the edges and expose the roller pin bearing assembly or just plain dig at it, and get that stuff out with needle nose pliers.
Then use the Grinding bit that looks like a Drill bit and slowly make a groove into the casing of the Bearing(that is left in the shaft).
Once you groove it enough,you can get a screwdriver to collapse a side of the bearing and pull out the whole casing with needle nose pliers.
09-12-12, 09:16 AM
#15
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Like RotaryEvolution I swear by my Dremel.
You cut the edges and expose the roller pin bearing assembly or just plain dig at it, and get that stuff out with needle nose pliers.
Then use the Grinding bit that looks like a Drill bit and slowly make a groove into the casing of the Bearing(that is left in the shaft).
Once you groove it enough,you can get a screwdriver to collapse a side of the bearing and pull out the whole casing with needle nose pliers.
You cut the edges and expose the roller pin bearing assembly or just plain dig at it, and get that stuff out with needle nose pliers.
Then use the Grinding bit that looks like a Drill bit and slowly make a groove into the casing of the Bearing(that is left in the shaft).
Once you groove it enough,you can get a screwdriver to collapse a side of the bearing and pull out the whole casing with needle nose pliers.
What bit are you using for the first step?
09-12-12, 01:31 PM
#19
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I mauled the hell out of mine with various tools to get it out in pieces. Took all of like 5 minutes. Was replacing it with new anyways, so why worry about its condition coming out.
09-13-12, 05:02 PM
#25
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Lol! I've never heard of using wax. We always used grease, like, wheel bearing grease. Put a generous amount in the hole and find something like a bolt (or drill though they are brittle and can shatter) close to the size of the ID. If it's a little loose, push some folded paper towel in the hole on top of the grease and then go at it with the hammer.
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