Well, 560 dollars later I a new clutch put in.

Now I have an Electrical problem.
This started about 5 days ago and has happened 4 times so far.

The very first time it messed up was when I was driving.
The stereo flickered and died. I then put the clutch in for a red light and the engine died. I the turned it over and it started immediately.
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Next day, I go out to my car for the first time that day and try to start it.

It had a very faint beep and the gauge reads 8V with the key in. I then turn thr key to start it and the beep dies and the dome light and gauges die.

I then look under the hood and evrything looks good.
I go inside and come out 3 minutes later and it turns over and runs fine. I'm doing 13V at a little over idle.
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Next night

It does the same exact thing. We hook up a charger and try to turn it over. With the key just in the accessory postion it was showing like 13V cause of the charger.
As soon as I try to turn the car over it all dies and it doesn't even click.

We give up and a few minutes later I try it wothout the charger and it starts.
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Next day

Does same thing when coming out of work.
I get it started after a few minutes and my clutch breaks.

(seems to be after a couple hours sitting)
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Today at Mechanics garage

I put the key in the ACC position and it slowly rises to about 8V.

The mechanic puts the charger on and puts it on max seeting. Everything lioghts up and the Windhsield wipers start going ,even though it was off.

I tell him to turn the charger off. I try it and now it doesn't even work in ACC position.
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I need Help. This is my daily driver and I have a total of $6 left from my paycheck cause of the clutch.

What it does with the key in ACC.
-Dome light slowly illuminates(not full brightness though.Dim)
-Gauage cluster turns on and volt gauge go's to about 8V
-Stereo won't even turn on.
-Turn key to on position and everything cuts out.
-No clicking from starter.


Any Ideas? I was thinking maybe stock security system was F'ing up but it shouldn't cut power to the whole car.

Maybe bad Ignition switch?(but why would all power be gone?)

My dad thinks a bad connection somewhere, I don't know. It ran fine every time in between those times.
We haven't had a chance to look at it since it's 40 miles from my house.

PLEEEEASE I need input. I am very broke right now and don't have means to get to work.

 

Sounds like your alternator is dead. The battery may also be gone.

Rob

 

Alternator should be good. It's only 4 months old and it pushes 13V while driving.

I haven't tested the Battery yet. I hope it's that,but that wouldn't exactly explain why it would work a minute later.

 

sounds like alternator or starter...my start was going out and it would start sometimes but then not start 5 minutes later and vice versa, just an idea i am pretty stupid but its something to try

 

It does sound like a bad alternator I had a similar problem my alternator was just messing up bad when I accelerated it over juiced my battery and made everything bright, I had to get a new battery after alternator replaced cayse it fried it, do the battery first, if it still doesnt work get the alternator rebuilt, shops will do it for about $80

 

I've got an Volt meter at my house. I'll test the battery when I get the car home.

The alternator is a checker reman one. So it has a lifetime warranty. Heheh, Just walk in with it and walk out with a new one.

Currently I can't even check the Alt cause the car gets no juice to anything,gauges,lights,etc.

 

I thought about it and it shouldn't be Alt or Battery.

The reason why is because it didn't even crank over in the on position with the charger hooked up. In Accessory position it would show high Voltage dependant on the charger setting.

It would make a sparking/clicking noise with the high voltage and me trying to turn it over though.

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Where are main connections to the car elec system?
Would a bad starter solenoid/starter itself cause this?

 

Sounds to me as if there may be just a bad connection at the battery termials. Try taking the connectors off and cleaning the battery terminals themselves and the connectors with a wire brush, then reconnect them and make sure that they are on TIGHT! You'd be very suprised at how much a loose/corroded battery cable connection can mess with the car.

 

I gotta agree with this.. It would cause the symptoms you are seeing.


Jarrett

 

i agree also. i had the exact same problem as you do. batt=good, alt=good, batt terminals=pooh. replace batt terminals=

 

Like was said above - The contact area on the battery terminals & clamps must be shinny & bright. Dull grey lead oxide is a poor conductor.
If you still have problems, check the other end of the battery ground, down on the starter.
Also clean & check the firewall to bellhousing ground.
Like your Dad said - It's a connection problem - probably near the battery.

 

If the terminals turn out good........look at the MAIN FUSE in the engine compartment. 80amp I think. Held in with a bolt under a flap.

If the fuse is good, and the batt terminals are good......write back.

 

Also check the connections on the starter. And that main fuse can die without blowing. If everything else checks out, replace the main fuse regardless of its visible condition.

 

A few inches down from the main fuse (80a in engine bay) is a black connector on a ten or twelve gauge black wire. Check the condition of it inside and out. This is the wire that carries the juice for just about everything electrical (except for headlights, ignition key reminder buzzer, and a few other things). It is a sort of common failure point. Check it for overheating, look for signs of melting, distorted plastic and wire that is more brittle and hard than it is further away from the connector.

I had similiar problems to yours (but at different times) and since I replaced the connector, I spliced in a good one, I have had no problems.

 

Well, just to close this thread. I found out what was wrong.

The positive Battery terminal was completely corroded under it. So It looked like it was connected from the top but there was No bottom to it.

For a temp fix I cleaned the terminals and jammed it on there. I can probably go about a week with it like this.

Also The jackass at the Cluthc shop blew my main interior fuse and that;s why nothign worked in there.

I have a new probelm though.
The Wipers are now stuck permanantly on Fast even with the swtich being off! I pulled the wiper fuse and I live in AZ so I don't have to worry that much.

You think he fried my wiper switch? The hazard switch still works.

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/wipers.html