Help buying my first rx7?
Yes, the two cover plates are stock, one gives access to the fuel pump the other to the fuel fill connection at the tank.
It's missing (at least in the pics) the fan shroud, which is critical if you run the stock fan.
The interior pics don't show the driver seat side bolster which is commonly all worn out, maybe that's why it's not shown.
The wheels look fine, they aren't really "centered" in the openings anyway.
I doubt he did anything with the rear brake lines, the car probably has no brakes and is undriveable.
It's missing (at least in the pics) the fan shroud, which is critical if you run the stock fan.
The interior pics don't show the driver seat side bolster which is commonly all worn out, maybe that's why it's not shown.
The wheels look fine, they aren't really "centered" in the openings anyway.
I doubt he did anything with the rear brake lines, the car probably has no brakes and is undriveable.
Insane Stance and Offset
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Seymour Johnson Air Force Base, NC
honestly that more or less looks like the angle of the car in the picture. or from what ive been told(idk how true this is so dont quote me on it) if the dtss bushings are worn out itll **** your whole alignment. but if it is an algnment issue stll be a caster issue
Insane Stance and Offset
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Seymour Johnson Air Force Base, NC
but to agree with alot of other people that car does looked pretty ragged out and the whole no rear brakes thing makes you wonder why...and unfortunately(i know in my area this is the case) you cant just walk into your local junkyard and find an fc just sitting in there.
I agree it does look pretty ragged but that just makes me want to fix it up even more. Restore another beautiful rx7 instead of letting it die and go to waste. I've gotten the price down to $700 but that's without even looking at it. When I go. I may try to get it down lower. Anyone be willing to sell me rear calipers rotors and pads? 
If you have a place to store it and work on it I don't see a reason not to get it.
These cars do take a lot of money to get running, especially if it is Turbo.
I got my 87 Turbo for $1000 and I've already put more than double that into it, the majority being the cost of an engine rebuild.
If it runs and runs well enough to not need a rebuild you've dodged a bullet and if the car is priced cheap consider yourself lucky. 90% of cheap priced rx7s don't run or run on 1 rotor or have blown coolant seals.
These cars do take a lot of money to get running, especially if it is Turbo.
I got my 87 Turbo for $1000 and I've already put more than double that into it, the majority being the cost of an engine rebuild.
If it runs and runs well enough to not need a rebuild you've dodged a bullet and if the car is priced cheap consider yourself lucky. 90% of cheap priced rx7s don't run or run on 1 rotor or have blown coolant seals.
Sorry, don't have any but...
Be aware that there are two rear brake systems, the base setup has solid rotors and the upgraded ones have vented rotors.
The calipers are identical in every way except for the bodies, the "better" ones being slightly wider to accept the wider rotors.
Unless you are racing there is absolutely no advantage to the vented disks, the calipers take the same pads, caliper pistons are the same (both calipers use the same rebuild kit) and the rotors are the same diameter.
However, there IS one big difference and that is the cost of the rotors themselves.
For some weird reason, the solid disks are much more expensive than the vented ones, assuming you can even find someone who stocks them.
If you have a choice, go for the vented rotor setup (commonly referred to as "turbo" brakes), not because they're any better but because they are cheaper.
Also, I'm now wondering how the car is driveable without rear brakes.
Did he crimp the brake lines to seal them off or what?
Replacing the hard lines isn't that big a deal but another expense added to a car that's looking more and more like a real money pit.
Usually, when buying a beater there's something that makes it attractive- nice wheels, good suspension, nice interior or paint...but something.
I don't see any such saving graces on that car, it looks like everything needs work.
And "needs work" equals "spend money", which you already said you don't have.
Be afraid, be very afraid.
Be aware that there are two rear brake systems, the base setup has solid rotors and the upgraded ones have vented rotors.
The calipers are identical in every way except for the bodies, the "better" ones being slightly wider to accept the wider rotors.
Unless you are racing there is absolutely no advantage to the vented disks, the calipers take the same pads, caliper pistons are the same (both calipers use the same rebuild kit) and the rotors are the same diameter.
However, there IS one big difference and that is the cost of the rotors themselves.
For some weird reason, the solid disks are much more expensive than the vented ones, assuming you can even find someone who stocks them.
If you have a choice, go for the vented rotor setup (commonly referred to as "turbo" brakes), not because they're any better but because they are cheaper.
Also, I'm now wondering how the car is driveable without rear brakes.
Did he crimp the brake lines to seal them off or what?
Replacing the hard lines isn't that big a deal but another expense added to a car that's looking more and more like a real money pit.
Usually, when buying a beater there's something that makes it attractive- nice wheels, good suspension, nice interior or paint...but something.
I don't see any such saving graces on that car, it looks like everything needs work.
And "needs work" equals "spend money", which you already said you don't have.
Be afraid, be very afraid.
Sorry, don't have any but...
Be aware that there are two rear brake systems, the base setup has solid rotors and the upgraded ones have vented rotors.
The calipers are identical in every way except for the bodies, the "better" ones being slightly wider to accept the wider rotors.
Unless you are racing there is absolutely no advantage to the vented disks, the calipers take the same pads, caliper pistons are the same (both calipers use the same rebuild kit) and the rotors are the same diameter.
However, there IS one big difference and that is the cost of the rotors themselves.
For some weird reason, the solid disks are much more expensive than the vented ones, assuming you can even find someone who stocks them.
If you have a choice, go for the vented rotor setup (commonly referred to as "turbo" brakes), not because they're any better but because they are cheaper.
Also, I'm now wondering how the car is driveable without rear brakes.
Did he crimp the brake lines to seal them off or what?
Replacing the hard lines isn't that big a deal but another expense added to a car that's looking more and more like a real money pit.
Usually, when buying a beater there's something that makes it attractive- nice wheels, good suspension, nice interior or paint...but something.
I don't see any such saving graces on that car, it looks like everything needs work.
And "needs work" equals "spend money", which you already said you don't have.
Be afraid, be very afraid.
Be aware that there are two rear brake systems, the base setup has solid rotors and the upgraded ones have vented rotors.
The calipers are identical in every way except for the bodies, the "better" ones being slightly wider to accept the wider rotors.
Unless you are racing there is absolutely no advantage to the vented disks, the calipers take the same pads, caliper pistons are the same (both calipers use the same rebuild kit) and the rotors are the same diameter.
However, there IS one big difference and that is the cost of the rotors themselves.
For some weird reason, the solid disks are much more expensive than the vented ones, assuming you can even find someone who stocks them.
If you have a choice, go for the vented rotor setup (commonly referred to as "turbo" brakes), not because they're any better but because they are cheaper.
Also, I'm now wondering how the car is driveable without rear brakes.
Did he crimp the brake lines to seal them off or what?
Replacing the hard lines isn't that big a deal but another expense added to a car that's looking more and more like a real money pit.
Usually, when buying a beater there's something that makes it attractive- nice wheels, good suspension, nice interior or paint...but something.
I don't see any such saving graces on that car, it looks like everything needs work.
And "needs work" equals "spend money", which you already said you don't have.
Be afraid, be very afraid.
That car was in really good condition for the price and had basically every bolt on power mod you can get for an NA.
Cheap and requiring little to no work or money invested is an oxymoron.
Chances of finding an rx7 in great mechanical.condition is very low, although you could find one with less required compared to this one.
When it comes the breaks being sealed off that's what I am wondering. I want to know how it's sealed off. The thing that attracts me to it is the engine. The fact that it runs. And apparently pretty decently. I will need help finding these rotors and pads and everything. Would eBay pads be okay?
Get calipers first because that will determine the rotors you need.
Pads you can get anywhere.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-92-Mazda-RX-7-rear-brake-calipers-OEM-/271170866588?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f230b0d9c&vxp=mtr has calipers.
Pads you can get anywhere.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/86-92-Mazda-RX-7-rear-brake-calipers-OEM-/271170866588?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f230b0d9c&vxp=mtr has calipers.
Insane Stance and Offset
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Seymour Johnson Air Force Base, NC
