AmviciousRav

iTrader: (5)

hey hailers, what happens when your heater core is disabled or removed (my heater lines are looped, so I can't set the heater to full blast when I try to bleed the system)

fiskblk1127

Any one have pictures of the sensors cause I just have no idea what any of these look like or where to even look for then. And pictures would be really helpful

rotarycal

The buzzer for low coolant won't stop notifying me. Is the coolant level sensor that important?

I was trying to bleeding air out of the system yesterday. I thought I broke off the wire connecting to the bleeder screw when I was loosening it, but it turns out the previous owner had taped the wire to have it stay on.

Would it be okay if I got someone to solder the wire back onto the bleeder screw?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

You unscrewed the Low Level Coolant sensor...not the bleeder screw.
The bleeder screw is on the passenger side of the upper rad Hose area.On the rad itself where the hose meets...a little black X type indented plug..it is Identical looking to the Drain plug.

phirzcol88

Just ground the wire. Mine would come on at random. That said when I developed a hairline crack in the thermo housing took me forever to figure out. No warning other than no heat. Would have killed my oil seals if It was summer. Just a warning

rotarycal

I clearly read a post wrong. I thought they were talking about the bleeder screw, but I've mistaken it for the coolant level sensor LOL!

Can I get that sensor soldered though? I doubt any local parts store has it in stock, and I don't want to order a $7 part online unless I'm doing a bulk order for other parts.

VANHALEN

iTrader: (3)

It's there to tell you if there's air in the system. Or, if you're losing coolant.
To stop the buzzer, just ground the wire to the body .

I'd check why it's going off though.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

DO NOT simply ground the level sensor. Yes it will stop the warning buzzing, but it will no longer serve it's purpose in telling you that something is wrong. Fix the problem don't put a bandaid on it.

rotarycal

Never had any intention of doing so.

rotarycal

I decided to give it a few weeks before I came back and sought out for help.

I forgot to mention my car is an S5, so there is no bleeder screw.

I tried burping the system with the rad cap off and the car running; nothing. I even tried placing my hand over the rad filler neck and pumping the hoses; still, nothing.

What I did pay attention to was my temp gauge, it kept staying at 3/4 of the gauge every time it idles. I'm not sure what happens if I drive it, I'm afraid I won't make it back to my driveway in time lol.


Here's what I'm talking about.

Is it air, or...? I still don't have the coolant sensor installed, I'll be replacing it hopefully next week, but I strongly doubt that's the problem if my temp gauge is staying at 3/4 of the way up.

I didn't find any coolant leaks under my car either, unless they're hairline.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Unfortunately your S5 temp gauge is not worth paying attention to...it's not linear and is more of a dummy light than anything else.
It will display normally- which is right at halfway on the face- from about 160° to about 230°...never moves till you're already having an overheat event.

You need an aftermarket temp gauge, it's FC 101 advice.

demonpoodle

iTrader: (1)

guys I have an issue similar enough to this to not warrant a new thread.

after I fill my coolant system and bleed it. it will work fine for a few miles then the buzzer will go back on again. upon inspection I found that after i drive it the overflow tank is really full (about double the max). But when the engine cools back down it doesn't draw the coolant back into the system. As a result the buzzer stays on because there is not enough coolant..

I'm thinking its either one of two things:
1) bad pressure cap
2) something to do with the reservoir or the line attaching it to pressure cap.

the car is an early S4 setup with 1 cap at the top of the thermostat only. I have all new coolant+heater lines (replaced the cap at the same time). did not replace the overflow line or the reservoir. let me know if you guys can think of anything else i'm not thinking of.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Try putting hose clamps (or zipties) on the overflow nipples.
Pressure forces coolant into the recovery tank but vacuum draws it back, if the hose between the rad and the tank isn't completely airtight, the system doesn't work.