Post #17 above. Takes ten minutes.

 

Will do Hailers just gotta get the tank in. Phew got a lot on my plate all of a sudden

 

Ok guys tanks in, 13.2 volts at the pump plug, 2 gals. of 93 oct., 100;1 mix, 73psi after the filter, and no return with the inbound line on either of the steel lines. I have spare injectors and rails, but wanted yalls thoughts before I tore the intake back off and swap it all.

 

Did you SWAP the fuel lines AT the engine??? Try that. In other words the line from the filter should now go to the metal line on the engine that it IS NOT connected to right now. Swap 'em. Takes but a minute or two at most.

Then remove the hose from the metal line that is the RETURN line to the tank and put it in a container. Then jumper the yellow two pin fuel pump check connetor and key to ON. Fuel should flood out the RETURN line now.


The RETURN and FEED lines are opposite on USA cars vs JDM. On or AT the engine is what I mean.

Then again..........is fuel coming out the filter at all???????? Might be gunked up for no flow. I trust you can hear the fuel pump ......pumpin.

 

Yep the two lines that run across the top of the engine from the drivers side next to the oil pedestal. Tried them both ways and got nada, I also tested the pressure after the firewall filter and got the above mentioned 73 psi and PLENTY of volume so I know its getting there, just not coming back. I'm thinking stuck FPR, how bout you?

 

Well something is really screwy somewhere but I'll be damned if I can figure out what. Tried swapping the rails and injectors and still no return with the fuel lines routed either way. I'm gonna try pressurizing the old rail to check the FPR if its good then I will start at the top and check everything again. Any one have a good fuel pressure tester or gauge they wanna loan or sell? I'm using an oil pressure gauge and its ok but probably not exact.

I tried to start it with ether and it coughed a bit but no go. I did notice that if I barely push the pedal it will sputter a little better but still wont start. I am at least getting some smoke out the tail pipes now instead of just the occasional wisp.

 

Ok,If you jump the fuel pump check connector and are Getting Fuel when you do that,That tells you that part of the fuel system is OK.
Now,Find out Exactly where the Fuel is Going FROM the Filter.It needs to go to the Primary Rail,then Out of that to the Secondary,,then OUT of that to Return line on the Firewall.
If that Checks out OK,Then take 5 minutes to "blow out' The lines that are in between the Fuel filter and the Return line,either by using pressure with the Injectors OUT of the Rails and the whole Hose set up off the engine,or taking a small steel brush and snaking it through the Rails.That will Clean out CRUD in the rails,.
There has been a couple instances where the crud from the Tank will Go UP and to the injectors and cause a NO FUEL situation like what you are describing.
73 PSI is WAY too much pressure BTW to Run the car.,Try 45..
AND,I may have missed the info so Re-itterate what kind of fuel Setup you have.IS it Stock or aftermarket setup?. and HOW and where do you have the components Placed?
another Suggestion is to Try another AFM,just for the Hell of it.(it would knock another Part off the "is it OK" list!)

 

The fuel is getting to the rails but not back. I swapped in my spare rails and injectors this evening. Injectors were ziploc bagged when pulled and were good then, rails I cleaned thoroughly today prior to installation. I swapped the lines next to the oil filter and still no return. I know its passing the PD but I'm not sure if the FPR is letting it by, could be the reason it shows 73 psi. Fuel system is stock aside from a walbro pump.

 

USA series five looks like the jpg out of the FSM.

We assume that there was no fuel being returned and when this was noted, that at that time the fuel pump was constantly running with the jumper across the two socket fuel pump check connector with key ON. If so, and your car looks like the attached jpg........then it's possible the FPR is toast.........but if you tried two different FPR and had the same problem.......ain't likely the FPR but another thing.

 

Yep see posts 15 and 30. I had it run right originally and I have since swapped the lines where they pass the oil filter pedestal and still no go. It is currently the same as the FSM, with the exception of my FPR's vac source is now routed to the center of the LIM because I have removed the rats nest.

Interesting that the JDM models are supposedly reversed but neither set of my fuel rails differ from those in the FSM.

 

Ok I WAS having intermittent fuel pump issues but now thats solved with a new pump and wiring (hot lead straight from the battery to a switch then to the pump. I will swap it to a switched ign lead later) I still get ~60-75 psig after the fuel filter but no return. I have cleaned and swapped the rails twice now. Is there an economical aftermarket fuel rail/FPR/PD setup available somewhere? All the ones I have found require different injectors and I would rather not go quite that far. Oh and now I get no vacuum while cranking (well its barely enuf to twitch the aftermarket gauge I plumbed in to the LIM)

 

Wow what a kick in the teeth! turned out to be a plugged soft line between the steel lines that run across the top of the engine and the PD.... the car still wont start though

 

any updates on this? My car is having the exact same issue after swap.

 

I actually sold the car and the new owner discovered that the issue was in the wiring from the CAS to the ECU and that the injectors were only firing 1/2 as often as they should. The signal was only being sent from one pick up so I had injector click and fire when I spun the CAS but not enough to get it to run.

 

Could you tell me more about this? Like how do I fix that wiring problem, or maybe I can get in contact with that person.

I had a engine from another running S4 T2, it was running when it was pulled, I put the engine in with the same harness from that running car. Yet I have the same problem that the car won't start.

The battery harness didn't change tho. Maybe it's the battery harness?

 

Not having done the repair my self I cant offer a lot of advice there but basically you need a pinout for the ECU and check the continuity on the leads from CAS to ecu. tugging on them to simulate engine and road vibration would be good. Battery harness should be pretty straight forward IIRC just a ground and 2 hot leads? One to the starter and one to the under hood fuse box?

 

I bought this car not knowing anything, now I'm just starting to figure stuff out as my posts counts grow.
my battery harness has 4 ground points.

1 starter, 1 near starter on the engine, 1 on the chassis near the strut wall, and last one from the main fuse box directly to the engine.

And from engine harness there is 1 directly from engine to ECu ground, 1 chassis to Engine ground.

I replaced this engine with a better condition engine harness and N333 ecu instead of N332 which is the one I had. I suspected it being electrical problem so I thought replacing the engine harness would fix the problem, but the problem stayed even after the engine and wireharness is swapped. hmm