Texrx

OK I put the engine (s5) back in my 88 TII and now it won't start. I know its getting spark and fuel. I know it had good compression before but now its only showing 30 pounds on all sides. I did flush the engine VERY thoroughly before reinstalling it and then again after install with gas/oil mix.
Other possible sources of trouble are:

The distributor, I am pretty certain that I got it lined up right when I reinstalled it but the manual I have doesn't cover this so if anyone knows the proper way to reset it I'd like to know

The fuel lines, once again I am pretty sure these are correct but the original vac spider disappeared so I didn't have my marks. The fuel line is now connected to the rear steel line by the oil filter and my FPR is on the back of the top rail.

The injectors, I had these marked so I wouldn't get them swapped but then I pulled the fuel rail to replace a couple of the o-rings and got them mixed up

Any ideas guys?

Texrx

Ok I found a post on resetting the CAS and it was right, fuel lines check out, gonna try a little oil in the intake to bump the comp. and try pull-starting it tomorrow.

Texrx

OK double checked everything again today and tried pull starting it but no luck. It did feel like it was trying and the engine was warm afterwards so its burning something but it just wont catch and run.

Anybody?!!

Texrx

Bump? Comp was low so I pumped some oil in the chambers and it still only shows 30 psig. Surely all 6 seals aren't gone at once!

HAILERS

When you used the compression tester with all it's schrader valves installed on said compression tester.......what are the results?

I mean your not removing one of the schrader valves as you do the test, are you?

Texrx

Initially I ran it w/o the valve and it shows 3 spikes per rotor @ 30 psig then I ran it with the valve and got 30 again. I checked both prior to oil and both after. I'm stumped... All three spikes are >1psi variance on the gauge but it is a cheapo tester so...

Texrx

I checked it before and it had good compression. Could the apex seals be stuck? I pumped about a gallon of MMO and 4 cans of sea foam thru it to flush it out. Could either of those have damaged it? Is it possible that the carbon build up was the only thing keeping it running? IIRC the comp was like 90 psig before.

HAILERS

Sounds kinda bad. I'd borrow or buy another compression gauge and try again.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Hey, John! did you fix that oil leak and was it the o-ring?

Also, you remember that it has a fuel cut switch behind the seat, right?

Texrx

Hey Jack!! No I skipped it entirely. The engine had 10 mm of endplay when I pulled it and the omp wasn't even hooked up. I picked up a friends JDM import and swapped it in and cleaned up the harness, all pretty solder joints and heatshrink/liquid vinyl now. I am planning to send the engine out for a rebuild when money is a little less tight. It still turns smooth and has good comp so hopefully it wont be to bad to rebuild. That fuel cut switch is getting a lot of miles put on it trying to start this thing. Glad I have it though its awfully handy. What was the 2nd switch under the steering column for though? I cant remember and it doesn't seem to operate anything. I thought it was the headlight bypass but apparently not. She's lloking pretty good otherwise Cleaned the s#!t outta the interior, bought all new vents, stereo surround, door pull cups, etc just need carpet, a dash, seats re-covered, center console, and a few bits for the rear and she'll be cherry inside then on to the exterior. BTW what was the name of the seat place you recommended?

Hey what do you want for your TMIC and can I get a pic of it? I'm still using the one that came with the car, I straightened the fins but its a bit corroded and I'm afraid it may pop if I ever get this thing running. Hows the vert? Still sittin pretty I hope.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

That guy did nearly everything wrong, didn't he? Missed an o-ring didn't hook up the OMP...never buy a rotary from a piston guy. The good news is that the car did not ever drive more than 40-50 miles. I did have some oil in the gas for a just in case, so that motor is probably in pretty good condition internally.


Sounds like you have been busy. My TMIC is an S4 version, so smaller diameter piping than the S5 you have.

That other switch is a headlight switch. The PO bypassed the burned out headlight switch. It only turns on the headlights. You still need to use the orginal switch to pop up the lights and turn on the dash and marker lights.

When you are ready, I will charge that A/C up for you with the Genuine R12, my treat. Drive it up and we will have a couple of cold ones as well.

Stay in touch!

Texrx

Yeah I did the same for the couple of runs I made after I brought it home. The thing ran like mad after a bit of tuning but it still smoked like a freight train. I still have a couple of bits to find to get the A/c together but I will definitely take you up on that if I ever get it running. I guess the headlight switch decided to work again then because they turn on and off just like they should now (shrug) I'll have to put that on my list of things to double check. Oh the fun of used cars!

Texrx

Update:
Ok I borrowed a compression tester from a friend and ran it again and... 85 pounds cold with no oil in the chambers ( I flushed it thoroughly beforehand) I did not run a wet test since 85 pounds seemed pretty good for a cold engine. Once again the readings were within 1 psi variation between faces. Sooo I guess the next step is to check the fuel pressure. Anyone have any suggestions, tip, tricks for this? I haven't spotted a fitting for a pressure tester anywhere so I assume I will have to plumb one in.

At least the comp was good, that was a hell of a relief!!!

HAILERS

It's possible the fuel lines that connect at the engine are put on wrong. Swap them.......or pull the return line off at the engine and then put a hose on the hard line from the engine into a bucket. Now just go to START for approx five or six seconds. Fuel should flow from the return line (the engine side of that line) into the bucket. IF not, then the return and feed lines are crossed up.

OR disconnect the fuel pump plug at the pump. Spray starter fluid into the intake box for no more than three seconds. Then start the engine. IF it does start momentarily, then most likely the fuel lines are crossed AT the engine. The hoses is what I'm saying. Common problem.

Texrx

I double checked the routing the other day and it is currently running the pressure line (from pump>filter>fuel rail) to the lower/primary fuel rail that has the pulsation dampener on the end nearest the firewall and the return line comes from the FPR on the upper/secondary railto the steel line on the fire wall. I will check it again first thing tomorrow to make double sure.

Texrx

Ok I decided to start at the tank and work forward. I did check the fuel lines and they are routed as I posted above. The tank however had more trash in it than when I flushed it before so I am looking for a place to have it boiled out and resealed. Just to make sure I got it right I need 70 psi of fuel pressure with the engine off and ~35 PSI at idle?

HAILERS

Now just go to START for approx five or six seconds. Fuel should flow from the return line (the engine side of that line) into the bucket. IF not, then the return and feed lines are crossed up.

Texrx

Well if I cant find a place to boil out the tank then I will run some sea foam thru it then reinstall it. I thought the black stuff on the inside of the tank was the sealant but apparently its varnish so since I have it out its gonna get cleaned good. I am working up a temporary tank to test the fuel flow after I get something to eat. I'll keep you posted on what I find.

Texrx

Ok tanks flushed and ready to go back in, its not spotless but 3 cans of sea foam did a pretty good job. I didn't get the lines at the engine checked cuz I decided to change the diff fluid while I had easy access. Man thats a whole lot easier with the tank outta the way! I will stab the tank and get it all hooked back up tomorrow morning and test the lines. I am curious though, did our cars come with a Walbro pump or did someone change mine. If so how do you I.D. the different walbro pumps?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

The PO put that Walbro in. I remember getting the number off the side of the pump housing. I think that it is the high pressure, but I wouldn't swear to it.

BTW, I cleaned that gas tank out once too. I used lacquer thinner.

Texrx

Wow that stuff must've been thick then because I got a lot more out of it this go around than I did last time. I'll have to run the numbers on the pump. I couldn't get any more gear oil today, every where I went they were out so I'll have to try again tomorrow. Picked up some ether to help it out. I'll see what the fuel pump is and then what kind of pressure its making and go from there.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

The difference between the high pressure and standard pressure Walbro 255 is basically greater flow at higher fuel system pressures.

The standard WAlbro 255 is good for Stock to mildly modded turbos. You will need to do the fuel pump rewire modification-every old TII needs that.

The High pressure Walbro 255 will work for mild to major modded TII's. Again, I remember that this particular unit is the high pressure but you can read the part number off the body of the unit and match it up online. I once switched it temporarily into my N/A S5 vert. during a trouble shooting session (I had a burned out ECU and Electric OMP). It overwhelmed the pressure regulator and made the car Idle very very rough and rich.

The gas in that tank was nasty and stanky but clear gas. I strained it through a mesh screen as I siphoned about 7-8 gallons out of the tank. The screen had no debris. What should I do with 8 gallons of clear stale gas? I dumped it into my Ford Econoline van's half full 38 gallon tank. The damn van would almost not even run. I ruined about 20 gallons of good gas with 8 gallons of the old. It took another full refill to rid that van of the ill running crap. Changed the fuel filters and learned my lesson.

The varnish in the tank was bronze-colored crispy coating on the surface. Acetone cut it right off.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

I do have one bit of info that might help you. You do know that the fuel system on the JDM engines is hooked up to the car backward to the USDM systems. This car, as you bought it, had the fuel properly hooked up as a JDM-because it was JDM. It was correct and running when you got it. If you got a USDM engine and hooked it up just like that existing JDM engine, you might have it 'backwards'. In this case, you should have spark, and injector function (clicking) but no fuel pressure in the fuel rail. To quickly diagnose this condition, the car should start on a starting fluid spray into the intake but will not stay running. The fix is to switch the fuel system's supply and return.

Good Luck.

prjct87rx7

iTrader: (7)

he never awnsered if the fuel cut switch is on in the bacK??

Texrx

Yeah the fuel cut is on I have used it a LOT. I got the same crap outta the tank both times but much more this time and its actually a pretty shiney silverish color inside now. I also picked up 2 gals of 93 oct. to put back in it so that should cure that. Honestly I think that was the problem, the gas was pretty dark (coffee, almost) and rank. I used the pump to pump it out and it took about 1 minute to pump out 3 gals so its definitely producing volume just not sure about pressure yet. I think I have it plumbed right, this is the sequence:

tank>pump>filter on firewall>rear steel line>pulsation dampener>primaries>up to secondaries>FPR>return line.

I am trying to sell my truck atm as well and getting a lot of response which is keeping me from working on it.

What is the "fuel pump rewire modification" I haven't run across this anywhere, got a link?