HELP!! 87 TII. No start. My DD =(
01-25-11, 02:07 AM
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HELP!! 87 TII. No start. My DD =(
Hey everyone, thanks for reading this if you are right now.
I have an 87 TII. Recently i went to turn the key and i got absolutely nothing besides the key being in reminder noise. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch and key barrel.
I have no power on any wire after the solid black wire going to the ignition switch. So turning the key to "ACC" "ON" or "START" doesn't change anything, ive tested the othe wires accordingly, still only power to the solid black wire. I know the switch i replaced my old one with is good, therefore my question is how do i know where the problem is if turning the key doesn't transfer voltage to any other wires? Only the solid black wire gets voltage, but i know the switch is good.
Where do i go from here?
Thanks beforehand for any replies.
I have an 87 TII. Recently i went to turn the key and i got absolutely nothing besides the key being in reminder noise. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch and key barrel.
I have no power on any wire after the solid black wire going to the ignition switch. So turning the key to "ACC" "ON" or "START" doesn't change anything, ive tested the othe wires accordingly, still only power to the solid black wire. I know the switch i replaced my old one with is good, therefore my question is how do i know where the problem is if turning the key doesn't transfer voltage to any other wires? Only the solid black wire gets voltage, but i know the switch is good.
Where do i go from here?
Thanks beforehand for any replies.
01-25-11, 09:41 AM
#6
The Main fuse does power the ignition switch but does so on a constant basis. The role of the ignition switch would be to pass this constant voltage onto other wires in the switch. The ACC, IG1 and IG2 circuits receive power in this fashion but it occurs w/o the Interlock or Inhibitor switch, thus these circuits would work independently of these switches. The Start circuit would incorporate these switches but none of the other independent circuits on his car are working. So for example, if you turn the key to ACC the remote mirrors or radio should work even though the Start circuit, which includes the Interlock switch or Inhibitor switch is nonexistent or damaged. Even w/o the safety switches the ignition switch would pass power onto the Black/Red start wire w/key to start but his does not.
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01-25-11, 11:19 AM
#8
The original poster states that there is voltage on the Black wire at the ignition switch which indicates the Main fuse to be good. The ECU gets power from an EGI fuse in the engine fuse box, but it is dependent upon the 15 amp Engine fuse in the interior fuse box (to power up the Main relay) which is dependent on the Main fuse, but even if the ECU was not powered the car should still crank for all that's needed is the starter to receive voltage from the battery in addition to the starter solenoid receiving voltage from the Start circuit which is independent of the ECU and the ECU is not used to pass voltage from the Black ignition wire to any of the other ignition switch wires so the fuse that powers the ECU is not at fault for his specific problem. Just explaining.
01-25-11, 12:32 PM
#9
Rotary Freak
Well it seems you on another thread have stated that when the key is put to just ON......that the wipers and turn signals don't work. Meaning the power is not passing from the solid black wire through the ignition switch to the interior fuse box to power the wipers and turn signals.
So here's the real deal (hah!) .......You've somehow checked and made sure there is no power getting thru the switch to anyother wire on the ignition leads plus you've replaced the switch. So I would say that the problem is.........drum roll.............that the black wire may show batt voltage but it is not carrying any current when a LOAD is put on the system. Sooooooooo maybe the other end of that BLACK wire at the ignition is a real flakey connection. So you say "where is the other end of that BLACK wire?" and I reply..."its in the engine bay and it is a single black connector (one black wire coming in and one black wire going out), and its location is just a few inchec inboard and down from the engine bay fuse box. See if it's melted or half *** connected.
Answer us this which has NOTHING to do with the ignition switch..................Do your headlights come up and turn on brightly ??????? or not. Yes, I know the ignition switch has zip to do with this action,but it'll tell us if the battery is in good shape and tell us if your battery connections are good or not.
And one more question so we can be sure that we're talking about the same thing......the BLACK wire at the ignition, its in the connector with the BLACK/WHITE wire ...isn't it. Yes? No?
Have you ever tried just pulling the ignition switch connectors apart and jumpering a piece of wire b/t the pure Black wire and the BLACK/WHITE wire and then checked to see if the wipers or turn signals work (doing this to prove power is getting to the interior fuse box and no other reason).
Or jumpering the pure black to the black/red wire and with clutch depressed the starter should start spinning (no key required for this). That would also prove whether or not the BLACK wire will carry enough current or not.
So here's the real deal (hah!) .......You've somehow checked and made sure there is no power getting thru the switch to anyother wire on the ignition leads plus you've replaced the switch. So I would say that the problem is.........drum roll.............that the black wire may show batt voltage but it is not carrying any current when a LOAD is put on the system. Sooooooooo maybe the other end of that BLACK wire at the ignition is a real flakey connection. So you say "where is the other end of that BLACK wire?" and I reply..."its in the engine bay and it is a single black connector (one black wire coming in and one black wire going out), and its location is just a few inchec inboard and down from the engine bay fuse box. See if it's melted or half *** connected.
Answer us this which has NOTHING to do with the ignition switch..................Do your headlights come up and turn on brightly ??????? or not. Yes, I know the ignition switch has zip to do with this action,but it'll tell us if the battery is in good shape and tell us if your battery connections are good or not.
And one more question so we can be sure that we're talking about the same thing......the BLACK wire at the ignition, its in the connector with the BLACK/WHITE wire ...isn't it. Yes? No?
Have you ever tried just pulling the ignition switch connectors apart and jumpering a piece of wire b/t the pure Black wire and the BLACK/WHITE wire and then checked to see if the wipers or turn signals work (doing this to prove power is getting to the interior fuse box and no other reason).
Or jumpering the pure black to the black/red wire and with clutch depressed the starter should start spinning (no key required for this). That would also prove whether or not the BLACK wire will carry enough current or not.
01-25-11, 12:44 PM
#10
HAILERS, his diagnostic testing as far as I know so far has involved an LED light to check for voltage as opposed to a multimeter/voltmeter. Just in case you were unaware of this, I have suggested that he at least borrow a proper tool to check for voltage to help diagnose his problem and make things easier.
01-25-11, 12:46 PM
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Have you ever tried just pulling the ignition switch connectors apart and jumpering a piece of wire b/t the pure Black wire and the BLACK/WHITE wire and then checked to see if the wipers or turn signals work (doing this to prove power is getting to the interior fuse box and no other reason).
Or jumpering the pure black to the black/red wire and with clutch depressed the starter should start spinning (no key required for this). That would also prove whether or not the BLACK wire will carry enough current or not.
Or jumpering the pure black to the black/red wire and with clutch depressed the starter should start spinning (no key required for this). That would also prove whether or not the BLACK wire will carry enough current or not.
=)
01-25-11, 02:41 PM
#12
Rotary Freak
Batter and cables might be good.........but jumpering the pure black to the black/red can also tell us if the connection b/t the batter positive post and the engine bay fuse box is good or bad.
Take note here: The B/R wire that feeds the starter is in a single wire connector. There is another b/r wire but its in a connector with a pure blue wire. Don't use that b/r and expect the starter to spin. That b/r feeds IG2 buss on the interior fuse box. No harm will happen if you did put power to that one> just no starter action there.
Time out for a small correction. IF you touch the pure black to the black/white.........the main relay will be heard to pull in.....turn signals will work if tried......and the meter/gauges will work.
Touching the pure black to the b/r (in the two wire plug) will give you wiper action and maybe sunroof action.
Pure black jumpered to the pure blue in the two wire connector will give you radio action if the radio works. Plus you can light up a cigar then.
Take note here: The B/R wire that feeds the starter is in a single wire connector. There is another b/r wire but its in a connector with a pure blue wire. Don't use that b/r and expect the starter to spin. That b/r feeds IG2 buss on the interior fuse box. No harm will happen if you did put power to that one> just no starter action there.
Time out for a small correction. IF you touch the pure black to the black/white.........the main relay will be heard to pull in.....turn signals will work if tried......and the meter/gauges will work.
Touching the pure black to the b/r (in the two wire plug) will give you wiper action and maybe sunroof action.
Pure black jumpered to the pure blue in the two wire connector will give you radio action if the radio works. Plus you can light up a cigar then.
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