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#1
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Sorry, i dont know if this is the right place to post this but oh well..
I just got a 1987 TII and the car doesnt stay running.
I drove it one time, and when i was driving home on the freeway the car just died.
Before the car died the car was cutting out a little bit.
Now when i start it, it stays running for like 2 seconds and then dies.
Then the battery loses power..
Does anyone know what the problem could be?
My friend said alternator.
I just got a 1987 TII and the car doesnt stay running.
I drove it one time, and when i was driving home on the freeway the car just died.
Before the car died the car was cutting out a little bit.
Now when i start it, it stays running for like 2 seconds and then dies.
Then the battery loses power..
Does anyone know what the problem could be?
My friend said alternator.
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
have you done a compression check? Do you have proper voltage when the car is running? do you have a major hose or part disconnected.
You will need to provide much more detail on what is happening to get the correct response to the problem
You will need to provide much more detail on what is happening to get the correct response to the problem
#6
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No compression check.
The car has a t04 turbo, and had 750cc injectors on it with no engine management.
I wasnt driving the car alot, just somewhere and back.
And its cutting out cause of the injectors im pretty sure..
But the car just died on the freeway. I was driving normal, nothing about 3500 rpms.
But i had to stay in 4th cause 5th was cutting out too bad. Then the car died.
Would start, but not stay running.
I just put the stock injectors back in but its doing the same thing.
This happend to my brothers car and he just needed an alternator so im hoping thats all it is.
The car has a t04 turbo, and had 750cc injectors on it with no engine management.
I wasnt driving the car alot, just somewhere and back.
And its cutting out cause of the injectors im pretty sure..
But the car just died on the freeway. I was driving normal, nothing about 3500 rpms.
But i had to stay in 4th cause 5th was cutting out too bad. Then the car died.
Would start, but not stay running.
I just put the stock injectors back in but its doing the same thing.
This happend to my brothers car and he just needed an alternator so im hoping thats all it is.
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#13
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Okay, so i got an alternator today and put it on and its doing the same thing.
But now it will barely even start.
It will act like its going to, and then not..
I had a big truck try to jump it but wouldnt start.
Any other ideas?
Spark plugs?
And when i try to start it i smell gas
But now it will barely even start.
It will act like its going to, and then not..
I had a big truck try to jump it but wouldnt start.
Any other ideas?
Spark plugs?
And when i try to start it i smell gas
#14
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Why are you wasting money when you have not done the basic tests such as voltage or if the alternator is even working?
Or a compression check?
You don't buy anything until you test and know for sure that the part needs to be replaced...
Well unless you have more money than sense or are a tech at a Mazda dealer.
And you probably have flooded the motor.
Or a compression check?
You don't buy anything until you test and know for sure that the part needs to be replaced...
Well unless you have more money than sense or are a tech at a Mazda dealer.
And you probably have flooded the motor.
#15
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Why are you wasting money when you have not done the basic tests such as voltage or if the alternator is even working?
Or a compression check?
You don't buy anything until you test and know for sure that the part needs to be replaced...
Well unless you have more money than sense or are a tech at a Mazda dealer.
And you probably have flooded the motor.
Or a compression check?
You don't buy anything until you test and know for sure that the part needs to be replaced...
Well unless you have more money than sense or are a tech at a Mazda dealer.
And you probably have flooded the motor.
And they didnt have the right part to test it at the time, so i just bought it.
Could it be fuel pump? fuel filter?
#16
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#17
Similar issue
My 87 TII died on the freeway today as well. Driving along and then complete loss of electrical power. The car started again after about 10 mins of trying. It is at the dealership now, I had no time to troubleshoot and need my daily driver back.
Trouble shooting via the WEB is a nightmare. Sounds like you eleminated the Altenator though. I let you know what the dealer says is wrong with mine, maybe that will help point you in the right direction.
Rob
Trouble shooting via the WEB is a nightmare. Sounds like you eleminated the Altenator though. I let you know what the dealer says is wrong with mine, maybe that will help point you in the right direction.
Rob
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My 87 TII died on the freeway today as well. Driving along and then complete loss of electrical power. The car started again after about 10 mins of trying. It is at the dealership now, I had no time to troubleshoot and need my daily driver back.
Trouble shooting via the WEB is a nightmare. Sounds like you eleminated the Altenator though. I let you know what the dealer says is wrong with mine, maybe that will help point you in the right direction.
Rob
Trouble shooting via the WEB is a nightmare. Sounds like you eleminated the Altenator though. I let you know what the dealer says is wrong with mine, maybe that will help point you in the right direction.
Rob
But when i started it after like an hour of trying, i had to hold the gas for it to stay running, then i let off it died.
Please let me know whats wrong with yours.
#20
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/
I guess you are not getting it... it sounds like you have multiple problems.
From your description, you have flooded the motor. Fix this by unflooding the motor as per the owers manual or if you don't have the owners manual, then by reading the FAQ for FC sticky thread (shown above) that you seem to be ignoring.
It also sounds like you have a voltage problem, but the issue here is that you don't seem to listen or be inclined to even check the voltage in the car. Checking the voltage requires a multi-meter available at Radio Shack, Home depot and most auto parts stores from anywhere between $25 and $300 (depending on model and quality). You don't just go replacing parts.
For example, maybe you just have corrosion on the battery terminal... this would limit the amperage and or voltage available from the battery and may over heat the alternator as it is trying to charge the battery. There might not be a problem at all with the battery, or with the alternator itself, however since you are unwilling or unable to test or even trouble shoot the problem it is hard to say. You didn't even answer Hailers question (here you have one of the best FC electrical guys on the board trying to help and you can't be bother to go test what he asked you... instead you waste money on buying a alternator??? WTF is that???).
Going out and buying a new alternator is just a waste of money unless that is the problem. Since it didn't fix the car, you pretty much know that the $100 you spent on a rebuilt alternator was completely wasted. Asking about things like fuel pumps or fuel filters is the same... why replace a part that is not the problem... instead trouble shoot the problems and get the car running.
So stop jumping ahead, go and test the voltage and clear the flooded engine and go from there. Neither cost much and will allow the next step in testing and trouble shooting if the problems are still there.
I guess you are not getting it... it sounds like you have multiple problems.
From your description, you have flooded the motor. Fix this by unflooding the motor as per the owers manual or if you don't have the owners manual, then by reading the FAQ for FC sticky thread (shown above) that you seem to be ignoring.
It also sounds like you have a voltage problem, but the issue here is that you don't seem to listen or be inclined to even check the voltage in the car. Checking the voltage requires a multi-meter available at Radio Shack, Home depot and most auto parts stores from anywhere between $25 and $300 (depending on model and quality). You don't just go replacing parts.
For example, maybe you just have corrosion on the battery terminal... this would limit the amperage and or voltage available from the battery and may over heat the alternator as it is trying to charge the battery. There might not be a problem at all with the battery, or with the alternator itself, however since you are unwilling or unable to test or even trouble shoot the problem it is hard to say. You didn't even answer Hailers question (here you have one of the best FC electrical guys on the board trying to help and you can't be bother to go test what he asked you... instead you waste money on buying a alternator??? WTF is that???).
Going out and buying a new alternator is just a waste of money unless that is the problem. Since it didn't fix the car, you pretty much know that the $100 you spent on a rebuilt alternator was completely wasted. Asking about things like fuel pumps or fuel filters is the same... why replace a part that is not the problem... instead trouble shoot the problems and get the car running.
So stop jumping ahead, go and test the voltage and clear the flooded engine and go from there. Neither cost much and will allow the next step in testing and trouble shooting if the problems are still there.
#22
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
You can run a FC just fine without the trailing coils even plugged in. If you can't... then you probably have a problem with the leading coils as well; as they are required to run the vehicle.
#25
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