Help!
My car is dieng, i talked to a mod and he said this is the sound a car will make when the rotor stops working but mine works then wont work ect normally when i drive if it does it the car lurches forward and looses all power and wont accelerate or wrap up at all but then about 20 seconds late it will clear up but the other day it didnt clear up at all even with 35 minutes driving but 3500-4300 it worked fine so i dunno if its gas spark electrical or what the hells going on but i need help i have a video of it doing it but dont know how to upload it so if someone can do it for me id grately apprecciate it
http://home.comcast.net/~rx7projects/Picture_009.mpg theres the video for it, any suggestions please
Is English not your 1st language?
If it is, please try and type in proper capitalization, punctuation, syntax and grammer.
That gave me a royal headache trying to figure out what you're trying to say!

-Ted
If it is, please try and type in proper capitalization, punctuation, syntax and grammer.
That gave me a royal headache trying to figure out what you're trying to say!

-Ted
okay guys, buujin is actually a pretty nice guy so please give him some help. i translated his initial post, so do what the 2nd gen forum does best...
Here's a video of the problem:
http://home.comcast.net/~rx7projects/Picture_009.mpg
Originally Posted by buujin
My car is dying!
I talked to a mod, and he said this is the sound a car will make when one rotor stops working. However, mine works intermittently. Sometimes its fine, and then it starts acting up.
When it happens during normal driving, the car lurches forward and loses all power. It won't accelerate or wind up RPMs at all! But about 20 seconds later, it will clear up.
That's what it usually does. However, the other day it didn't clear up at all... Even with 35 minutes of driving.
On the other hand, if I keep it between 3500-4300RPMs, it works fine - so i'm really confused...
What could the problem be? Is it gas, spark, or electrical... I don't know what the hell is going on.
I talked to a mod, and he said this is the sound a car will make when one rotor stops working. However, mine works intermittently. Sometimes its fine, and then it starts acting up.
When it happens during normal driving, the car lurches forward and loses all power. It won't accelerate or wind up RPMs at all! But about 20 seconds later, it will clear up.
That's what it usually does. However, the other day it didn't clear up at all... Even with 35 minutes of driving.
On the other hand, if I keep it between 3500-4300RPMs, it works fine - so i'm really confused...
What could the problem be? Is it gas, spark, or electrical... I don't know what the hell is going on.
http://home.comcast.net/~rx7projects/Picture_009.mpg
Well someone pmed me saying its the waterthermo sensor. Someone in town said that to the guy that owned it before I did but he was kind of wacko, would that make sense to anyone else here, I personally dont see how that would make it want to just up and die.
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I heard of the water temp sensor throwing an S5 into a panic mode, but I can't confirm if that's true. It likely wouldn't apply to you anyway, if you're talking about the 86 in your profile. in an S4, all it does is trigger the aux fan (if so equippied).
honestly, to me, it sounds like an ignition problem. I can't watch the video (at work), though, so i can't hear it. 1st thing is obviously to check/replace your plugs and wires. From there I'd go to pulling off your coils, and making sure that they've got a good, solid contact down to ground (they ground through the mounting plates they're screwed onto). Then check the CAS signal, make sure it's getting a good signal input/output, then lastely to the ECU..
That's what I'm thinking right now.. I'll watch the video when I get home, but that won't be until much later tonight.
honestly, to me, it sounds like an ignition problem. I can't watch the video (at work), though, so i can't hear it. 1st thing is obviously to check/replace your plugs and wires. From there I'd go to pulling off your coils, and making sure that they've got a good, solid contact down to ground (they ground through the mounting plates they're screwed onto). Then check the CAS signal, make sure it's getting a good signal input/output, then lastely to the ECU..
That's what I'm thinking right now.. I'll watch the video when I get home, but that won't be until much later tonight.
1. The water temp sensor for the aux e-fan and the water thermo sensor on the back of the water pump are 2 different things.
2. He's referring to the one on the back of the water pump. The thermo sensor on the back of the pump does a lot more than you lead it to be, since I believe you're referring to the sensor that goes in the coolant filler neck, which btw not all s4's have, like mine. The water thermo sensor is a very important part of the car.
I doubt it's the thermo sensor myself, if you watch the video and listen to the sound it kind of sounds like it's running on 1 rotor. The odd thing is that it stops doing it sometimes, so it doesn't seem blown. Ignition sounds right to me...
2. He's referring to the one on the back of the water pump. The thermo sensor on the back of the pump does a lot more than you lead it to be, since I believe you're referring to the sensor that goes in the coolant filler neck, which btw not all s4's have, like mine. The water thermo sensor is a very important part of the car.
I doubt it's the thermo sensor myself, if you watch the video and listen to the sound it kind of sounds like it's running on 1 rotor. The odd thing is that it stops doing it sometimes, so it doesn't seem blown. Ignition sounds right to me...
Originally Posted by dDuB
2. He's referring to the one on the back of the water pump. The thermo sensor on the back of the pump does a lot more than you lead it to be, since I believe you're referring to the sensor that goes in the coolant filler neck, which btw not all s4's have, like mine. The water thermo sensor is a very important part of the car.
The water thermo sensor, a very important part, which is located on the BACK of the water pump.
You did a megasquirt install and aren't sure about this sensor? It's the "coolant temp sensor"
The aux e-fan sensor/switch is the one on the coolant filler neck, not rear of the pump. Not sure which you are referring to now?
You did a megasquirt install and aren't sure about this sensor? It's the "coolant temp sensor"
The aux e-fan sensor/switch is the one on the coolant filler neck, not rear of the pump. Not sure which you are referring to now?
Originally Posted by dDuB
The water thermo sensor, a very important part, which is located on the BACK of the water pump.
You did a megasquirt install and aren't sure about this sensor? It's the "coolant temp sensor"
The aux e-fan sensor/switch is the one on the coolant filler neck, not rear of the pump. Not sure which you are referring to now?
You did a megasquirt install and aren't sure about this sensor? It's the "coolant temp sensor"
The aux e-fan sensor/switch is the one on the coolant filler neck, not rear of the pump. Not sure which you are referring to now?
The only one I'm aware of on the back of the water pump is the temp switch for aux fan equipped vehicles.. That's all that was on mine, unless that is not a temp switch? Either way, the only water temp sensor that I knew of is the one underneath the oil pedistal..
I know this may be COMPLETELY off but with my experiances with the sound...
seems like a clogging up cat to me...
with my 88 GXL my cat was really clogged up and was begining to blow out the exhaust gasket from the main cat to the 2nd pre-cat, and it made it sound really bad like that, but as for the loss of power etc... cleaned up the cat, got new gaskets and it ran just fine afterwords... no idea, just giving a different insight and what happened to me
seems like a clogging up cat to me...
with my 88 GXL my cat was really clogged up and was begining to blow out the exhaust gasket from the main cat to the 2nd pre-cat, and it made it sound really bad like that, but as for the loss of power etc... cleaned up the cat, got new gaskets and it ran just fine afterwords... no idea, just giving a different insight and what happened to me
Originally Posted by WonkoTheSane
The Coolant Temp sensor is the one that's stuck into the engine block, right underneath the oil filter pedistol.
The only one I'm aware of on the back of the water pump is the temp switch for aux fan equipped vehicles.. That's all that was on mine, unless that is not a temp switch? Either way, the only water temp sensor that I knew of is the one underneath the oil pedistal..
The only one I'm aware of on the back of the water pump is the temp switch for aux fan equipped vehicles.. That's all that was on mine, unless that is not a temp switch? Either way, the only water temp sensor that I knew of is the one underneath the oil pedistal..
The one behind the waterpump is NOT the switch, it is the water thermo sensor. The water temperature sensor you are speaking of below the oil filter pedastal is for the water temp gauge...
Here's a pic from the FSM.

The one on the back of the waterpump is #10 - Water Thermo Sensor Connector, obviously for the water thermo sensor. #11 is the one that goes into the coolant filler neck from the top right above the thermostat is the Water Thermo Switch Connector, obviously for the water thermo switch.
Also see fuel and emissions control in the non-turbo FSM, page 4A-46 (or page 47 on the downloadable PDF).
How would the water temp gauge sensor help for the MS coolant temp sensor? According to the MS wiring diagram there should be two wires, just like the water thermo sensor on the back of the waterpump, one for ground and one for the sensor, the gauge sensor under the oil filter pedastal is a single wire, so...
Originally Posted by Kouta
I know this may be COMPLETELY off but with my experiances with the sound...
seems like a clogging up cat to me...
with my 88 GXL my cat was really clogged up and was begining to blow out the exhaust gasket from the main cat to the 2nd pre-cat, and it made it sound really bad like that, but as for the loss of power etc... cleaned up the cat, got new gaskets and it ran just fine afterwords... no idea, just giving a different insight and what happened to me
seems like a clogging up cat to me...
with my 88 GXL my cat was really clogged up and was begining to blow out the exhaust gasket from the main cat to the 2nd pre-cat, and it made it sound really bad like that, but as for the loss of power etc... cleaned up the cat, got new gaskets and it ran just fine afterwords... no idea, just giving a different insight and what happened to me
Yes, I'm going to have to go with ignition problems too. Because it does sound like it runs on 1 rotor, then it'll stop, then back to 1 rotor. Hmm, I also wonder if (maybe a far off idea) something is wrong internally. Like if one of the rotors gets stuck, then unsticks and then the revs shoot up, gets stuck revs go down then unstuck, revs go up etc. If thats the case then maybe theres a problem with a seal, or theres actually something in the housing, or an oil problem, etc. Like I said might be a far off idea though, though you did say he's a wacko, maybe he did something?
This reminds me of a sticking spring inside of my S5 TPS sensor. Obviously this isnt the case here, since this is a S4. I would go ahead and check to see if your gettign any kind of spark to the plugs. It does sound like its running one one rotor, but it went away very abruptly, and sounded normal.
Check for spark while someone else is revving the motor, as in the video. This might very well, not be the answer, but its free and quick.
Check for spark while someone else is revving the motor, as in the video. This might very well, not be the answer, but its free and quick.
Afm
This really reminds me of what my car was doing when my AFM decided to quit working. Just check those closed and open resistances. Also, the FSM doesn't really say anything about it, but check the resistance sweep from closed to the open position. It should be a smooth(without and breaks) and linear( not jumping from high to low to high to low) resistance. Plus checking this will only take a few minute so it is not a big deal and one more thing that you can rule out.


