Heater hose firewall hole disaster...
#1
Too Many Questions
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Claremore, Oklahoma
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Heater hose firewall hole disaster...
So, I was taking off the heater hose on the driver side of my 87 N/A. My car has 181,xxx miles, so it was really stuck. I used channel locks to get it off; but, I crushed the metal tube in the firewall, pretty well closed but the lip is still a bit open. With the confined space between the S4 throttle body and the firewall:
How do I fix the metal fitting so that it is or equal to a circle again?
I don't want to connect the two heater hoses together because I need my defroster(Oklahoma weather is up and down) to functhon randomly.
How do I fix the metal fitting so that it is or equal to a circle again?
I don't want to connect the two heater hoses together because I need my defroster(Oklahoma weather is up and down) to functhon randomly.
#4
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My temporary solution in to run a 3/4" rubber hose from the inlet to the outlet. When I plan to take off my TB, I'll fix it; because I can't get into a good position or enough leverage to make it into a circle.
Thanks "Rob xx 7", I may do that if I have the confidence to do it right
Thanks "Rob xx 7", I may do that if I have the confidence to do it right
#6
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
That piece isn't actually part of the heater core. It's a separate metal line that just passes through the firewall, then connects to valve and hose that connect to the core itself. Replacing that thing would likely require removing the entire blower unit (lots of fun!).
Remove the TB, get something in there and start reshaping it. It doesn't have to be a perfect circle.
Remove the TB, get something in there and start reshaping it. It doesn't have to be a perfect circle.
#7
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
I'd be leery of attempting a repair given the consequences of it's failure.
Much better to replace than risk it.
Seems likely that uncrimping that tube will just cause stress fractures in the thin brass, fractures which then get retraumatized when the hoseclamp is tightened.
Catastrophic coolant loss is a death blow to an engine, so do you want to risk the motor to save a day's worth of labor?
Much better to replace than risk it.
Seems likely that uncrimping that tube will just cause stress fractures in the thin brass, fractures which then get retraumatized when the hoseclamp is tightened.
Catastrophic coolant loss is a death blow to an engine, so do you want to risk the motor to save a day's worth of labor?
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#10
FC guy
iTrader: (8)
That piece isn't actually part of the heater core. It's a separate metal line that just passes through the firewall, then connects to valve and hose that connect to the core itself. Replacing that thing would likely require removing the entire blower unit (lots of fun!).
Remove the TB, get something in there and start reshaping it. It doesn't have to be a perfect circle.
Remove the TB, get something in there and start reshaping it. It doesn't have to be a perfect circle.
leave it to mazda to make a cluster **** like that
#15
Former FC enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
OK seriously though, that thing is FUCKED. There is no way in hell you will fix that without removing the heater core. I lol'd when I saw the pics Sorry.
Removing the dash isn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be. Remove the dash with the metal frame, thing is like 6 bolts I think? Some connectors, two bolts on the steering column, etc. Its not bad and you can replace the crappy stock clamps on the hoses that connect the core to the pipes with worm gear clamps and pretty much never have to worry about the system leaking.
And FYI if you don't want to do the repair now you can loop or cap the lines and live without heat for a while.
Removing the dash isn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be. Remove the dash with the metal frame, thing is like 6 bolts I think? Some connectors, two bolts on the steering column, etc. Its not bad and you can replace the crappy stock clamps on the hoses that connect the core to the pipes with worm gear clamps and pretty much never have to worry about the system leaking.
And FYI if you don't want to do the repair now you can loop or cap the lines and live without heat for a while.
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