Heat From Exhaust In The Cabin
#26
well half of my heat shield r hacked off, i get heat inside my car!! i have the new ones that i got from the mazda dealership, just need to install them this summer!! i think that was my problem!!
#28
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I jerry rigged mine. My old one was in shambles from some unfortunate incident, but I got it back together with a drill and some sheet metal screws. It probably wouldn't be hard to fabricate one out of some aluminum flashing. Just get some of that, a drill and a pop rivet gun and you're all set.
#29
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Sounds like this is a common problem. I have a Bonez high flow cat and get significant heat coming up too. My boots around the shifter are intact, and the shifter gets pretty warm. Again, nice when the temp is 25, but not when it's 90 outside. I also get a transmission fluid smell. It seems that it comes from the shifter tower. One guy said he never puts fluid in the tower, but the FSM and Haynes both say to put fluid in there. I suspect that the heat makes the fluid seep out where it acts like one of those Glade scented air fresheners - just with a bad smell.
I've seen some insulating material that has a foil on one side and fiberglass mat on the other. That's going to be my next trick.
Like the rest, any ideas would be appreciated.
I've seen some insulating material that has a foil on one side and fiberglass mat on the other. That's going to be my next trick.
Like the rest, any ideas would be appreciated.
#31
OK, next project...
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I have the hot shifter too, and its bad because I have an aluminum ball for a ****. The rubber boot under the console has a big hole in it, but who knows if the heat caused the hole or if the hole is whats causing the heat!
I'm gonna wrap the exhaust. I hear it helps power a bit, keeps the engine bay cooler too. I also heard it can affect the life of your exhaust too, but I will try it and see.
I'm gonna wrap the exhaust. I hear it helps power a bit, keeps the engine bay cooler too. I also heard it can affect the life of your exhaust too, but I will try it and see.
#32
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I did get the heat issue somewhat under control. Since I replaced the stock exhaust from the cat back, less heat came through. I also replaced my shifter. While I had the top of the shifter area open and the boot off, I looked at the FSM and saw an insulation blanket that goes between the tunnel cover and the inside of the shift boot. I didn't have any of that material, but did have some kraft backed insulation (r-12) from a home improvement project, I improvised. The insulation does two things: first it keeps any heat from the metal of the tunnel from coming through the shift boot, and second, it makes things quieter (relatively). Between the new cat-back and the insulation, the heat is much less.
StockRex, in answer to your question about the Y being double layer, the answer is sort of. The pipe is inside an aluminum shield that is supposed to insulate somewhat. I can't answer what the stock setup is from the manifold through the presilencer and cat because mine was replaced with a Bonez high flow that does not have shielding. There is shielding mounted to the body through that area, so they may not have shielded the pipes.
My Racing beat Y doesn't have the shielding, but it is stainless and very heavy gauge. It weighs nearly the same as the stock Y. The stock Y failed between the flange and the Y, letting hot exhaust out there.
It's now quieter (no exhaust leak) and more comfortable in the cabin. I'll wait until the really warm days in late July and August for a final answer.
StockRex, in answer to your question about the Y being double layer, the answer is sort of. The pipe is inside an aluminum shield that is supposed to insulate somewhat. I can't answer what the stock setup is from the manifold through the presilencer and cat because mine was replaced with a Bonez high flow that does not have shielding. There is shielding mounted to the body through that area, so they may not have shielded the pipes.
My Racing beat Y doesn't have the shielding, but it is stainless and very heavy gauge. It weighs nearly the same as the stock Y. The stock Y failed between the flange and the Y, letting hot exhaust out there.
It's now quieter (no exhaust leak) and more comfortable in the cabin. I'll wait until the really warm days in late July and August for a final answer.
#33
Rotary Father
I was running a straight pipe and it never got hot in the car, but just a few months ago I had a cat put in and the shop "SAID" it was for a rotary engine but I didn't see any package or anything. After putting it in it ran fine for a few mnths but now it is getting hot as hell in the car. After driving for an hour or more it seems like the cat must be glowing hot because the space betwqeen the pass. seat and the consol is so damn hot you can't put your fingers in there for more than 5 seconds without feeling burnt. and the heat radiating out feels like an oven door open. it's not anywhere near the shifter, only back directly over the cat. Seems like the performance might be down a little too (harder to do a smokey burn out) could it be that a cheap *** cat was put in instead and is already shot to **** after just 4 months/ 3,000 miles?
#34
kill it with BOOMSTICK!
Originally posted by Ronald E. Jacques
I have the hot shifter too, and its bad because I have an aluminum ball for a ****. The rubber boot under the console has a big hole in it, but who knows if the heat caused the hole or if the hole is whats causing the heat!
I have the hot shifter too, and its bad because I have an aluminum ball for a ****. The rubber boot under the console has a big hole in it, but who knows if the heat caused the hole or if the hole is whats causing the heat!
#36
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I have noticed a pretty big temp increase since I put the Bonez hi-flo on the car. All the heat is coming up the sides of my middle console. It gets REAAALY hot to the side and down from the emergency brake. THere's not much heat shielding (as many of you know) above those cats. I would love to figure out a way to either stuff fiberglass insulation above the cat or spray it with something to help seal it. I just don't want to create a fire hazard, or mess up my exhaust.
Would jet-coating the downpipe help as well? Even though the heat, like I said, is REALLY coming up on the sides of the seats.
Would jet-coating the downpipe help as well? Even though the heat, like I said, is REALLY coming up on the sides of the seats.
#37
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Originally Posted by fstfwd
I have noticed a pretty big temp increase since I put the Bonez hi-flo on the car. All the heat is coming up the sides of my middle console. It gets REAAALY hot to the side and down from the emergency brake. THere's not much heat shielding (as many of you know) above those cats. I would love to figure out a way to either stuff fiberglass insulation above the cat or spray it with something to help seal it. I just don't want to create a fire hazard, or mess up my exhaust.
Would jet-coating the downpipe help as well? Even though the heat, like I said, is REALLY coming up on the sides of the seats.
Would jet-coating the downpipe help as well? Even though the heat, like I said, is REALLY coming up on the sides of the seats.
#38
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I have the same problem in my newly aquired T2. The interior is stripped completly almost. The shifter boots are all gone and the only one left is the main outside one to cover the shifter and even that is pretty much loose. I can fell ALOT of heated air come up while driving at high speeds. I can even look down and see the actual road if i pull the boot up. I plan on getting a short shifter from mazdatrix soon and was looking to make sure I had all the boots on as well as any insulation that might be missing. If anyone could verify that would be awesome. Also the shifter it self is very sloppy. The previous owner said something about replacing the return springs? Could someone double check that and tell me where they are? And the last thing if your feeling up to it.....the temp gauges doesnt work accurately. Its always the same and in fact the plastic window cover is gone so i can actually touch the needle. It doesnt move. How would I go about fixing that?
Last edited by FCrocious; 08-08-06 at 12:39 AM.
#39
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I plan on getting a short shifter from mazdatrix soon and was looking to make sure I had all the boots on as well as any insulation that might be missing.
The previous owner said something about replacing the return springs? Could someone double check that and tell me where they are?
Finally, having had a short shifter, I wouldn't recommend it unless this will be a track only or drag car. The reduction in shift throw comes with an increase in effort. For street use, this translates into less smooth shifts and your passengers will feel like they're being jerked around (literally).
#40
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Originally Posted by NoPistns
The FC's have 3 boot for the shifter. The first one slides over the shift lever and sits just below the point where the shift lever "notches" from about 3/4" to about 3/8" above the ball. This has three screws and protects the shift tower. There is another rubber boot that goes over the top, followed by the large boot that secures to the tunnel. The cars originally had some insulation on top of this, then the leather boot that you see in the interior. If these are bad, your interior will be an oven.
There are springs inside the shift tower that center the shifter. They provide tension when moving the lever to the left for 1st & 2nd, as well as to the right for 5th & reverse. If they're broken, the shifter will feel sloppy.
Finally, having had a short shifter, I wouldn't recommend it unless this will be a track only or drag car. The reduction in shift throw comes with an increase in effort. For street use, this translates into less smooth shifts and your passengers will feel like they're being jerked around (literally).
There are springs inside the shift tower that center the shifter. They provide tension when moving the lever to the left for 1st & 2nd, as well as to the right for 5th & reverse. If they're broken, the shifter will feel sloppy.
Finally, having had a short shifter, I wouldn't recommend it unless this will be a track only or drag car. The reduction in shift throw comes with an increase in effort. For street use, this translates into less smooth shifts and your passengers will feel like they're being jerked around (literally).
Where would I get those springs? I thought Mazdatrix had them.
The boots that don't come with the shifter I would probably get from the junkyard.
#41
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I suggest the Mazda dealer for the springs. You may have to buy a rebuild kit for the tranny to get them. Considering that the transmission is between 15 and 19 years old, a rebuild might be in order. Check out Trussville Mazda. They do a lot of internet business, and have a good reputation. They are located in Alabama, making them "local" for Floridians.
Swallow hard, ding your plastic for about $50 plus shipping and buy the new boots from Mazdatrix. Stuff like boots from the junk yard is just that. I'm not dissing used parts, but these deteriorate quickly with the heat and gear lube. I figure 3-5 years is about their useful lifespan.
Swallow hard, ding your plastic for about $50 plus shipping and buy the new boots from Mazdatrix. Stuff like boots from the junk yard is just that. I'm not dissing used parts, but these deteriorate quickly with the heat and gear lube. I figure 3-5 years is about their useful lifespan.
#42
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well at least some of you guys have ac, when all else fails you can use that when ur just cruising, my 87 turboII is a boiler thats for sure, im surprised i havent smelt my leg hairs burning it gets so hotttt no acccc for mee... who ever im riding with hates hoping out of the shower and into my car lol im planning on trying out some insulation of some sort in my vents, under the carpet, under glove box, under steering colum area, i'll letcha know the outcome, wont be for a while , rebuild in progress!!
#43
rotorhead
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I have an RB header and a welded straightpipe and it still gets really hot.
All I have to say is, FC's are waaaaaaaaay better than FD's for this. At least our main problem is the shifter... on an FD the whole transmission tunnel area gets super hot. Your right leg (if you are the driver) will be sweating so bad.
All I have to say is, FC's are waaaaaaaaay better than FD's for this. At least our main problem is the shifter... on an FD the whole transmission tunnel area gets super hot. Your right leg (if you are the driver) will be sweating so bad.
#44
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I am actually going to be going down to KDR to have them install some heatshielding and foil (that they stick on) above the exhaust track. Dave says that it has been doing an excellent job of reflecting away ambient heat. I'm also going to jet coat the down pipe and y pipes...