2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
Sponsored by:

Heat From Exhaust In The Cabin

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-20-04, 12:11 PM
  #26  
Who are you?

 
jgrts20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: CenCal
Posts: 2,235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
well half of my heat shield r hacked off, i get heat inside my car!! i have the new ones that i got from the mazda dealership, just need to install them this summer!! i think that was my problem!!
Old 03-23-04, 04:22 AM
  #27  
Full Member

 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Kzoo, MI
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
jgrts20
how much did the heat shields run from the dealership?

anyone fab their own heat shield?
Old 03-23-04, 07:57 AM
  #28  
Full Member

 
strikland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Athens, GA
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I jerry rigged mine. My old one was in shambles from some unfortunate incident, but I got it back together with a drill and some sheet metal screws. It probably wouldn't be hard to fabricate one out of some aluminum flashing. Just get some of that, a drill and a pop rivet gun and you're all set.
Old 03-23-04, 10:10 PM
  #29  
Full Member

 
NoPistns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sounds like this is a common problem. I have a Bonez high flow cat and get significant heat coming up too. My boots around the shifter are intact, and the shifter gets pretty warm. Again, nice when the temp is 25, but not when it's 90 outside. I also get a transmission fluid smell. It seems that it comes from the shifter tower. One guy said he never puts fluid in the tower, but the FSM and Haynes both say to put fluid in there. I suspect that the heat makes the fluid seep out where it acts like one of those Glade scented air fresheners - just with a bad smell.

I've seen some insulating material that has a foil on one side and fiberglass mat on the other. That's going to be my next trick.

Like the rest, any ideas would be appreciated.
Old 06-26-04, 01:32 AM
  #30  
Full Member

 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Kzoo, MI
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
are the stock y-pipes double walled?
that might explain the excessive heat from after market pipes that are not double walled.
Old 06-26-04, 08:04 AM
  #31  
OK, next project...

 
Ronald E. Jacques's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Greenfield, Indiana
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have the hot shifter too, and its bad because I have an aluminum ball for a ****. The rubber boot under the console has a big hole in it, but who knows if the heat caused the hole or if the hole is whats causing the heat!

I'm gonna wrap the exhaust. I hear it helps power a bit, keeps the engine bay cooler too. I also heard it can affect the life of your exhaust too, but I will try it and see.
Old 06-26-04, 11:25 AM
  #32  
Full Member

 
NoPistns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I did get the heat issue somewhat under control. Since I replaced the stock exhaust from the cat back, less heat came through. I also replaced my shifter. While I had the top of the shifter area open and the boot off, I looked at the FSM and saw an insulation blanket that goes between the tunnel cover and the inside of the shift boot. I didn't have any of that material, but did have some kraft backed insulation (r-12) from a home improvement project, I improvised. The insulation does two things: first it keeps any heat from the metal of the tunnel from coming through the shift boot, and second, it makes things quieter (relatively). Between the new cat-back and the insulation, the heat is much less.

StockRex, in answer to your question about the Y being double layer, the answer is sort of. The pipe is inside an aluminum shield that is supposed to insulate somewhat. I can't answer what the stock setup is from the manifold through the presilencer and cat because mine was replaced with a Bonez high flow that does not have shielding. There is shielding mounted to the body through that area, so they may not have shielded the pipes.

My Racing beat Y doesn't have the shielding, but it is stainless and very heavy gauge. It weighs nearly the same as the stock Y. The stock Y failed between the flange and the Y, letting hot exhaust out there.

It's now quieter (no exhaust leak) and more comfortable in the cabin. I'll wait until the really warm days in late July and August for a final answer.
Old 06-26-04, 01:22 PM
  #33  
Rotary Father

 
My Junx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I was running a straight pipe and it never got hot in the car, but just a few months ago I had a cat put in and the shop "SAID" it was for a rotary engine but I didn't see any package or anything. After putting it in it ran fine for a few mnths but now it is getting hot as hell in the car. After driving for an hour or more it seems like the cat must be glowing hot because the space betwqeen the pass. seat and the consol is so damn hot you can't put your fingers in there for more than 5 seconds without feeling burnt. and the heat radiating out feels like an oven door open. it's not anywhere near the shifter, only back directly over the cat. Seems like the performance might be down a little too (harder to do a smokey burn out) could it be that a cheap *** cat was put in instead and is already shot to **** after just 4 months/ 3,000 miles?
Old 06-26-04, 01:56 PM
  #34  
kill it with BOOMSTICK!

 
Falcoms's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: McHenry, IL
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally posted by Ronald E. Jacques
I have the hot shifter too, and its bad because I have an aluminum ball for a ****. The rubber boot under the console has a big hole in it, but who knows if the heat caused the hole or if the hole is whats causing the heat!
I think that you hit the nail on the head. The heat is not from (just) your exhaust, but rather from the tranny and engine coming up through the drive shaft tunnel. ALL rear wheel drive cars have this problem. Same for the hot shifter. Has anyone here driven a 60's or 70's Mustang with a 4-spd Hurst shifter. You NEED the plastic ball to keep from burning your hand. This is an inherent problem with RWD cars, so don't get all in a hizzy and go out and spend $200 or more to replace a cat that may or may not need to be replaced. If you don't belive me, take the plastic off of your E-Brake handle and feel it after driving on a nice summer day for about 1/2 an hour.
Old 06-28-04, 04:22 PM
  #35  
Rotary Father

 
My Junx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
bump/

does it sound like my cat burnt up in just 4 months?
I'm thinking about just gutting it
Old 07-17-06, 11:52 PM
  #36  
Fast Forward

iTrader: (1)
 
fstfwd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 309
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
I have noticed a pretty big temp increase since I put the Bonez hi-flo on the car. All the heat is coming up the sides of my middle console. It gets REAAALY hot to the side and down from the emergency brake. THere's not much heat shielding (as many of you know) above those cats. I would love to figure out a way to either stuff fiberglass insulation above the cat or spray it with something to help seal it. I just don't want to create a fire hazard, or mess up my exhaust.

Would jet-coating the downpipe help as well? Even though the heat, like I said, is REALLY coming up on the sides of the seats.
Old 07-18-06, 05:43 AM
  #37  
Full Member

 
NoPistns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by fstfwd
I have noticed a pretty big temp increase since I put the Bonez hi-flo on the car. All the heat is coming up the sides of my middle console. It gets REAAALY hot to the side and down from the emergency brake. THere's not much heat shielding (as many of you know) above those cats. I would love to figure out a way to either stuff fiberglass insulation above the cat or spray it with something to help seal it. I just don't want to create a fire hazard, or mess up my exhaust.

Would jet-coating the downpipe help as well? Even though the heat, like I said, is REALLY coming up on the sides of the seats.
Please see my post from June 2004 (about 3 comments back). An additional thing that I did was to replace the three rubber shifter boots. The first two protect the shift mechanism in the tower, but the third seals the hole in the tunnel where the shifter comes through into the interior. This combined with the insulation (see above) really tamed the heat.
Old 08-08-06, 12:37 AM
  #38  
Senior Member

iTrader: (1)
 
FCrocious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have the same problem in my newly aquired T2. The interior is stripped completly almost. The shifter boots are all gone and the only one left is the main outside one to cover the shifter and even that is pretty much loose. I can fell ALOT of heated air come up while driving at high speeds. I can even look down and see the actual road if i pull the boot up. I plan on getting a short shifter from mazdatrix soon and was looking to make sure I had all the boots on as well as any insulation that might be missing. If anyone could verify that would be awesome. Also the shifter it self is very sloppy. The previous owner said something about replacing the return springs? Could someone double check that and tell me where they are? And the last thing if your feeling up to it.....the temp gauges doesnt work accurately. Its always the same and in fact the plastic window cover is gone so i can actually touch the needle. It doesnt move. How would I go about fixing that?

Last edited by FCrocious; 08-08-06 at 12:39 AM.
Old 08-08-06, 06:54 AM
  #39  
Full Member

 
NoPistns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I plan on getting a short shifter from mazdatrix soon and was looking to make sure I had all the boots on as well as any insulation that might be missing.
The FC's have 3 boot for the shifter. The first one slides over the shift lever and sits just below the point where the shift lever "notches" from about 3/4" to about 3/8" above the ball. This has three screws and protects the shift tower. There is another rubber boot that goes over the top, followed by the large boot that secures to the tunnel. The cars originally had some insulation on top of this, then the leather boot that you see in the interior. If these are bad, your interior will be an oven.
The previous owner said something about replacing the return springs? Could someone double check that and tell me where they are?
There are springs inside the shift tower that center the shifter. They provide tension when moving the lever to the left for 1st & 2nd, as well as to the right for 5th & reverse. If they're broken, the shifter will feel sloppy.

Finally, having had a short shifter, I wouldn't recommend it unless this will be a track only or drag car. The reduction in shift throw comes with an increase in effort. For street use, this translates into less smooth shifts and your passengers will feel like they're being jerked around (literally).
Old 08-08-06, 08:18 AM
  #40  
Senior Member

iTrader: (1)
 
FCrocious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by NoPistns
The FC's have 3 boot for the shifter. The first one slides over the shift lever and sits just below the point where the shift lever "notches" from about 3/4" to about 3/8" above the ball. This has three screws and protects the shift tower. There is another rubber boot that goes over the top, followed by the large boot that secures to the tunnel. The cars originally had some insulation on top of this, then the leather boot that you see in the interior. If these are bad, your interior will be an oven.
There are springs inside the shift tower that center the shifter. They provide tension when moving the lever to the left for 1st & 2nd, as well as to the right for 5th & reverse. If they're broken, the shifter will feel sloppy.

Finally, having had a short shifter, I wouldn't recommend it unless this will be a track only or drag car. The reduction in shift throw comes with an increase in effort. For street use, this translates into less smooth shifts and your passengers will feel like they're being jerked around (literally).
That shouldn't be a problem. I had a very short shifter in my last car, so now I'm used to it. And the clutch is very touchy on the fc I got so the passengers are getting jerked around anyway
Where would I get those springs? I thought Mazdatrix had them.
The boots that don't come with the shifter I would probably get from the junkyard.
Old 08-08-06, 08:32 AM
  #41  
Full Member

 
NoPistns's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I suggest the Mazda dealer for the springs. You may have to buy a rebuild kit for the tranny to get them. Considering that the transmission is between 15 and 19 years old, a rebuild might be in order. Check out Trussville Mazda. They do a lot of internet business, and have a good reputation. They are located in Alabama, making them "local" for Floridians.

Swallow hard, ding your plastic for about $50 plus shipping and buy the new boots from Mazdatrix. Stuff like boots from the junk yard is just that. I'm not dissing used parts, but these deteriorate quickly with the heat and gear lube. I figure 3-5 years is about their useful lifespan.
Old 08-10-06, 08:28 AM
  #42  
Full Member

 
longisland87rx7's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: LONG ISLAND
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
well at least some of you guys have ac, when all else fails you can use that when ur just cruising, my 87 turboII is a boiler thats for sure, im surprised i havent smelt my leg hairs burning it gets so hotttt no acccc for mee... who ever im riding with hates hoping out of the shower and into my car lol im planning on trying out some insulation of some sort in my vents, under the carpet, under glove box, under steering colum area, i'll letcha know the outcome, wont be for a while , rebuild in progress!!
Old 08-10-06, 12:33 PM
  #43  
rotorhead

iTrader: (3)
 
arghx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: cold
Posts: 16,182
Received 429 Likes on 263 Posts
I have an RB header and a welded straightpipe and it still gets really hot.

All I have to say is, FC's are waaaaaaaaay better than FD's for this. At least our main problem is the shifter... on an FD the whole transmission tunnel area gets super hot. Your right leg (if you are the driver) will be sweating so bad.
Old 08-10-06, 12:50 PM
  #44  
Fast Forward

iTrader: (1)
 
fstfwd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 309
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
I am actually going to be going down to KDR to have them install some heatshielding and foil (that they stick on) above the exhaust track. Dave says that it has been doing an excellent job of reflecting away ambient heat. I'm also going to jet coat the down pipe and y pipes...
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
apooch
Single Turbo RX-7's
8
09-04-15 10:27 AM



Quick Reply: Heat From Exhaust In The Cabin



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:54 PM.