Spraintz

iTrader: (1)

please help

my headlights move up fine but never go down.
I have swapped the headlight motors assemblies and the switch and it still happens.
I know for a solid FACT that the motors and the switch are good (were from my other car).
does anybody have an idea of where the short could physically be?
i keep the fuse out as not to burn up the motors but when i crank the light down and put the fuse in they automatically go up no matter what position the switch is in.

anyhelp for finding that blasted short is much appreciated.....

WAYNE88N/A

Have you tried the switch cluster yet?

OOps, didn't read that all the way...

You sure it's a short? Any fuses blowing?

Only things in the entire system are the retractor motors, headlight switch, fuses, and wiring...

Spraintz

iTrader: (1)

the fuse never blows. but i'm afraid its constantly sending juice to tell them to stay up, thats why i think its a short, so i just keep the fuse out. I'm just tired of them being up all the time.
i just need an idea of where it could be

WAYNE88N/A

You've verified that they're going all the way up? Only thing I can think off is the limit switches (inside the motor assy?) not making contact somewhere. There are adjustments you can do to 'em, but I've only read about it, never had to mess with mine...

Spraintz

iTrader: (1)

yep, go all the way up. the motors, the individual headlight assemblies and harnesses, and the switch are all from my other car. they worked flawlessly in that car for 2 years. i got this car and it had this prblem. I swapped all that and it still exists. just dunno where in the wiring to look.

rexxer

ya happened to me to, i had to get the whole WIRING HARNESS replaced

Spraintz

iTrader: (1)

poop

i was hoping to splice in new wiring around the short, just not sure where to look.

WAYNE88N/A

Hmm, look at the red/ blue wires (both assy's) to see if anything looks funky, those are the "up" circuit wires (S4 cars)

rexxer

Its's actually not that expensive to get a new wiring harness and it will make sure other electrical problems wont happen as well ie. my horn would go off by itself, when my head lights go up my back lights turn off (that was a bitch), and random sensor beepings for no reason

Spraintz

iTrader: (1)

i could go pull all the harness from my other car but DAMN what a pain......

snub disphenoid

I had that problem. Check the arms that go from the motor to the headlight and from that connection point to the cover.

rexxer

i have a rotary mechanic up the street from me, (he builds rx-7 race cars) he told me that when your lights show any signs of a short (in ur case not going down) it will lead to other electrical problems as well (like not coming up at all) to shorting out your back lights, ect.
Anyways, if you have a good mechanic he could probably do it for under 400$, which would save you from having to replace other elec problems.
The main culprit to electrical problems is bad wiring involving stereo setups. ie. running big amps and subs directly off your your car. (There are better ways to hook up systems without killing car)

Spraintz

iTrader: (1)

i keep the 30A fuse out of the box as not to damage my motors. the culprit is definately not due to any aftermaket electronics in my case and even at $200, I just can't bring myself to pay somebody that for this car. I'll be back in a few, gonna go try something real quick.

rexxer

cool, well im out gotta work early tomorrow, peace

marlaman

I was actually curious about this myself earlier tonight as i have the problem of the headlights always staying up.

BUT instead of actually diagnosing the problem i was considering removing the fuse and taking apart my dash, making some custon wiring that goes directly from the switch to the motors themselves. The only disadvantage i can see for doing this would be it taking about an hour of my time.

Custom wiring and hookups to the lights seems to be a very good solid alternative because i think it would probably outlast the car.


Matt

Spraintz

iTrader: (1)

aight, on my S5 car, the "up" wiring is red w/ blue. I am getting 12v to that connection weather the switch is turned up OR down. this shows me obviously why the lights are being told to go up. now, do you guys think this is a short in the power wires or the actual "blue w/ red" signal wires?

I'm usually pretty good at figuring this stuff out but I'm just sorta stuck. MarlaMan, rewiring the headlight retractor system is my last resort and i agree it will prolly end up being best, I'm just hopin to find out exactly where the issue is.

I stay up late and have a multimeter and wiring diagram in hand.........anything else I should check for?

marlaman

Sometimes for me trying to diagnose the problem kills time. i just think it'd be easier for me to rewire it custom with stuff i know will last.

Matt

oh and it's just Marlaman. the 2nd capital M looked stupid to me 10 years ago when i got the nickname so i kept it small.

Spraintz

iTrader: (1)

cool......marlaman..,
yeah, I've been planning on rewiring the headlight system anyways, I was just bored and figured i'd spend a little time with it to see if I could figure something out.

WAYNE88N/A

First of all, shorts blow fuses. You're using the term loosely here. You have a problem with power not being "switched" off by the limit switches, or the off chance that your main power wire(s) that run to the motors have chaffed through your "up" wires and continuously supplying power to them. Personally I choose the former. Have you tried disconnecting the rods from the headlight assemblies, allowing them free movement, to see if they go "up" anymore and make that switch? There IS a stop for the actual headlight assy somewhere, I remember, and if it's hitting this stop before you're fully up, you'll never make the limit switch cut the circuit off, and get exactly what you're now getting...

Spraintz

iTrader: (1)

hmm, interesting info. i know what you mean about the up having a limit and this does sound like the issue, but what bugs me is that the assembly will not go up any further than it already does. pordon my electrical terminology ignorance, I get kinda stupid when it comes to that.

now? lets say that my lights aren't making that switch and I find that there is more upward movement. should that red w/ blue "up" wire have 0 volts once the "limit switch" has been swithed?

again pardon my ignorance, I'm just tryin to be right about it.