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Hazards stay on, and other electrical gremlins.

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Old 04-25-07, 08:08 PM
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Hazards stay on, and other electrical gremlins.

First I searched, came up empty. Here's the background: I am currently rebuilding an 86 gxl. The previous interior was mouse infested and flooded out. I have since replaced the chewed wires I've found, replaced the carpet, and the dash, the ecu, and just about everything (including the computer from a parts car).

The first electrical problem:
when i connect the battery the hazards stay on. it's not the switch, i've checked that. It's definatly a short some where--but anyone know where the most common short would occur for it?

Second electrical problem:
The power mirrors do not function. I have a feeling that this issue is related to the hazards as well.

Third electrical problem:
There's also a problem with the selector unit and the blower. Both seem to not function, or rather in teh case of the selector it moves extremely slowly if at all.

any ideas on where to start with this mess? any help would be much appreciated.
Old 04-25-07, 08:24 PM
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probably have the wrong dash harness or the wrong CPU
Old 04-25-07, 09:31 PM
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would having a CPU from an 87 GXL and a Dash harness from an 86 GXL cause such problems?
Old 04-25-07, 11:46 PM
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they should both be FB05 CPUs.. are they?
Old 04-26-07, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
they should both be FB05 CPUs.. are they?
mmm, I don't know off the top of my head. The 86 didn't come with a CPU (it was a roller), I'll double check the stamp on the CPU next time I work on it (today after 5pm). Thanks Icemark.
Old 04-26-07, 11:42 PM
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well to add to the confusion I double checked the cpu it is in fact an FB05. However I reconnected the negative battery terminal to show my friend what was happening and the Hazards did not come on. In fact they now work perfectly. As do the mirrors. (I guess the cpu just needed to be reset... which is odd since it hadn't had a battery connected to it in almost 3 or 4 months) So I went through and made a list of all the electrical problems that I saw. This took only like 10 minutes total to write it all down. This is what follows:

The right side blinker doesn't work, but the left side blinker blinks twice as fast as normal.

Reverse lights do not come on, but brake and hazard lights work fine, as do the regular and license plate lights.

Rear view mirrors (both left and right side) work perfectly, windows do not work, neither the driver side, nor the passenger.

Climate control does not work. Sun roof works brilliantly.

Dash clock disappears when drivers door becomes ajar, and the warning light comes on. The passenger side doesn't register as ajar (I think that's just the sensor). The clock also resets itself everytime the drivers side door is opened and then closed (resets to 1 o'clock).

Cabin lights do not work. Dimmer and dash lights work. Windshield wipers work.

A majority of these problems I have a feeling I know where the culprit is. In the case of the passenger side, I think the door ajar sensor needs some referbishsing on the contacts. The idiot light cluster I'm not too sure about that. I have pretty recently re-soldered those cold solder points and it worked brilliantly in the old car. windows I have a feeling is one of the switches and I might have to eithe repair them or replace them. But I would like a way to double check. Any ideas on where to start for most of these problems? Most importantly the ones concerning the climate control. I seem to be at quite a loss for its non-functioning. I'm wondering if the main board has gone bad in it in which case I might have to swap it for another one I have laying around. any thoughts?
Old 04-26-07, 11:57 PM
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two things..Left signal has a bad bulb somewhere..and the Idoit light cluster has either a Bad solder joint or a bad Connection..also Checkyour Room fuse/illumination fuse at the driver's Kick panel under the Dash,to see if any other Fuses are blown...Windows?..eithar a fuse or a bad master switch..
Old 04-27-07, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
two things..Left signal has a bad bulb somewhere..and the Idoit light cluster has either a Bad solder joint or a bad Connection..also Checkyour Room fuse/illumination fuse at the driver's Kick panel under the Dash,to see if any other Fuses are blown...Windows?..eithar a fuse or a bad master switch..
Yeah I was thinking that a bulb was out.

The idoit lights cluster i'll lean more towards the bad connection though I don't see how (since I recently re-soldered almost every pioint in there)

With the windows I think it's the switch... I hope it's not... but I think it is.

I'll be double checking the fuses tomorrow to see.
Old 05-01-07, 12:54 AM
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Okay so i Finally got around to checking the fuses. They're fine. I even got the lexicon working and the blower working too (I had to swap over the harness for that motor--quite strange).

The blinkers are still giving me trouble. Today I didn't really mess with them (IE replace the bulbs solder wire or re-arrange the wires) but the right side started working today for some unknown reason. Then I go and focus on another part of the car--not connected to the right side blinkers and I go back to test them, they don't work. Hazards do. But the right side blinker does not.

Power windows: I checked the drivers side switch and it is perfect. Connections where they should when they should. There's a problem somewhere in line with the fuse. I checked the fuse, but the seat it's in doesn't have a good connection I read around 14-1700 ohms. Kind of high if you ask me.

Reverse lights now work.
Old 05-03-07, 12:45 PM
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Fixed blinkers (it was an intermintent--which means there was an improper seat... locating it was a pain. It was the switch).

Power windows still give me trouble. Will be consulting the FSM some time soon, any help prior to that would be appreciated. Danke danke.

I also rebuilt the master switch and it registers 100% when tested with a multimeter. The fuse is intact to. Anyone know where the common problem is with it?
Old 05-03-07, 01:01 PM
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I had a problem with my doors where inside the switches the copper connects had bent over time. I had to rebend them, so that when you pull up the switch or push down they would actually move.
Old 05-03-07, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Suiicidalpenguin
I had a problem with my doors where inside the switches the copper connects had bent over time. I had to rebend them, so that when you pull up the switch or push down they would actually move.
Forgot to mention that I had fixed the door contacts. Still have the problem with the idiot lights, but I'll dive into that pretty soon. I've got finals tomorrow and the day after and on tuesday.
Old 05-11-07, 01:43 PM
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checked actual motor.???

if you rebuilt the switch and have good continuity...have you check power to the window motor itself. I would jump 12v to the motor and see if it works. Also make sure your power on/off switch is working correctly as this could fool you into thinking you dont have a good connection...

-Dave.
Old 05-11-07, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lax-rotor
Fixed blinkers (it was an intermintent--which means there was an improper seat... locating it was a pain. It was the switch).
Nope... fast flash indicates a problem between the CPU and the bulb (burnt bulb, shorted wire, bad CPU, etc) and is unrelated to the switch at all.
Old 05-13-07, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
Nope... fast flash indicates a problem between the CPU and the bulb (burnt bulb, shorted wire, bad CPU, etc) and is unrelated to the switch at all.
you're right the fast blinker is a burnt out/missing bulb, however that was only 1 part of my problem. the other part was the right side blinker wouldn't work at all, hence why the connection to the switch was the culprit. Sorry for the confusion icemark.

So far i've been able to work out almost all my electrical issues, the last ones that remain are:
The passenger side window doesn't want to go down, almost like there's no juice getting to it, however i hear the motor trying to engage when told to go up. I have a feeling it's a problem with the wiring on that side specifically and not the driverside switch (i've checked the switch using a multimeter and it checks out perfect--haven't checked out the passenger side switch)

also the last pieces that aren't quite working right are the curtesy lights on the doors. They don't light up and are not recieving any juice at all. I don't think it's a burnt fuse, but I haven't specifically checked. anyone care to give me a few pointers?
Old 05-14-07, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by lax-rotor
you're right the fast blinker is a burnt out/missing bulb, however that was only 1 part of my problem. the other part was the right side blinker wouldn't work at all, hence why the connection to the switch was the culprit. Sorry for the confusion icemark.

So far i've been able to work out almost all my electrical issues, the last ones that remain are:
The passenger side window doesn't want to go down, almost like there's no juice getting to it, however i hear the motor trying to engage when told to go up. I have a feeling it's a problem with the wiring on that side specifically and not the driverside switch (i've checked the switch using a multimeter and it checks out perfect--haven't checked out the passenger side switch)
Then the drivers switch should roll it up and down.

If the passengrs sde switch is bad, only the passengers switch won't work

also the last pieces that aren't quite working right are the curtesy lights on the doors. They don't light up and are not recieving any juice at all. I don't think it's a burnt fuse, but I haven't specifically checked. anyone care to give me a few pointers?
Power to the door lights is the same power as the dome light, and is the room fuse.
Old 05-14-07, 06:50 AM
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Thanks Icemark, I'll be checking those first.
Old 05-16-07, 08:02 AM
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All electrical problems are now resolved. The passengerside motor was in need of repair (the brushes weren't making contact with the plates correctly). And Icemark called it with the fuse. Thanks for everyones help!
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