wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

I have my car idling at about 1500 rpms when its fully warmed up, is that bad ?

I think i need to adjust it more to go a little lower because sometimes it will goto 2000rpm idle after driving, but it hasnt done it in a while.

micah

Yeah. Just adjust it lower. Since you used the word "more" I'll assume you already know how to do that. A high idle isn't terrible unless its accompanied by other symptoms like lack of power, bouncy idle, etc... Check the FAQ.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

So having a high idle at about 1500 rpm is bad ? I mean i dont mind it being high if it has no negative effects.

I do think my tps needs adjustment and prolly a few other things with the idle, i think the screw to turn idle rich/lean adjustment is messed up , i might need a new one of those.

I also have my 5/6 ports removed, acv removd, coldstart/aws removed, and the bac removed.

All of which makes my idle suck on coldstart, so thats why i raised the idle because it likes to stall out on coldstart and i have to use my foot on the gas to stop it from stalling, but after raising it up to where it is now, the problem is nowhere as bad.

micah

Yeah, I don't think its neccesarily "bad". People with bridge ported engines can't idle any less than 1500. But, with your BAC and AWS removed. I'd leave the idle where its at. Makes life easier.

Trots*88TII-AE*

iTrader: (11)

well bud, i think you may have a little trouble finding a replacement air mixture adjustment screw for a FC, being that it's not carbureted...

Before you start messing with your throttlebody and TPS, you should make sure that you have no vacuum leaks anywhere. If you have to, get it "smoked" at a shop to check for a leak. Are your 5th & 6th port locked in the open position? because that is going to make it harder to idle, and in that case, you may just have to leave it where it is

micah

I think he means the idle speed adjustent on top of the throttle body.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

5/6 ports and sleeves are completely removed, sotheyre always opened, and there are no vaccum leaks from my knowledge.

The rich/lean thing is a little electronic piece with a screw to turn in it right next to the afm and boost sensor.

I think the idle is so high on my car the screw on top of the tb has no effect on idle to make it go any lower.

micah

Oh.. thats right.. This is an S4.. Had S5's for so long, for got about that variable resistor thing. Yeah.. you are right. thats air/fuel ratio.

So, we're both wrong. LOL

Trots*88TII-AE*

iTrader: (11)

haha oops, who's the *** now...


<============

micah

Hehe... no kiddin. We suck

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Thats for IDLE AIR FUEL ONLY!!!! And it wont even come into play until the ECU is in "idle" mode...

It does nothing once the vehicle is off idle.

micah

When is the ECU in idle mode? If he has his TPS set so idle speed is at 1500-2000 wouldn't the ECU still see this as idle?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

No it would not. Anytime the ECU is above 900 or so, the ECU is no longer in IDLE mode. Its already feeding in timing adjustments and is not using the variable resistor.

Try it yourself. Go try to time a stock rotary when the idle is above 1000 RPM, then bring it back down to the stock 850 and tell me how far off it is.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for all the help, i didnt know it didnt matter to the ecu when the idle is above 850rpm it doesnt consider it idling , good info.

boost_its_what_for_dinner

so how do you lower the idle if you have block off plates on everything and also j-rat have you raced Z O SICK yet wanna see that video if there is one plus my idle is at 2000 and sometimes a little less but i havent checked the timing on my car in a while so does any know what plug to jump off to coreect the timing.{i think its the one under the trailing coil right but cant remeber}

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

I used to have an FC with a high idle that I couldn't figure out how to fix (and I wasn't in these forums so much). I think it just makes more heat and eats a little more fuel. I'd figure out the problem and fix it soon, but don't worry about driving it in the meantime. Like micaheli said, people with bridgeports run high idles all the time.

Oh, and with your 5th/6th ports stuck open you'll lose power and mpg in the low rpms.

patman

iTrader: (3)

there is no problem with idling high other than it wastes a bunch of fuel, and sounds funny.

to adjust, try the idle adjustment screw on top of the manifold. if that has no effect, then you either have a vacuum leak or you need to adjust the throttle stop screw or your throttle cable.

pat

boost_its_what_for_dinner

does the turbo have that

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Having a higher idle would obviously not mess up the timing to your rx7 if the idle was already set when the idle was in the range to actually be idling to the ecu (850 rpm or less) right ?

I dont think my timing is bad, it revs up to 7500 with no high rpm hesitations. I had my timing done by someone else though.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

My 5/6 ports arent stuck open, they are completely removed. I know I'm losing power and mpg at lower rpms, but having a full exhaust and streetport i think i will get some gains in the top end from this mod, but then again who knows...no one knows.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

If the timing was set right to begin with, then you are fine..

No, I have not raced Tony yet. I went out last weekend to race him but my clutch decided that high boost wasnt were it was at, so it left...

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

What kind of clutch disc/pressure plate are you using ?

patman

iTrader: (3)

turbo2 does not have the adjustment screw, so you just have to adjust the throttle stop screw.

NA has the screw, and i assume FD does since my 20B does...

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

ACT full face organic with the Xtreme disk. Held up good for a while, but its time has come and gone..