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Have you converted to Freeze-12?

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Old May 8, 2004 | 01:37 PM
  #1  
kel's Avatar
kel
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From: A Mile Closer to God (Denver)
Have you converted to Freeze-12?

Hey Gang,
I'm re-assembling my TII project car and (since this will now be my every-day car) am planning to recharge the A/C system with this new Freeze-12 stuff.
If you've been through this, I'd appreciate the benefit of your insight.
Who'd you get your stuff from? What tools would I need, beyond what a generally well stocked shop would have? What gotchas are there? Is there a better alternative I can do without employing an expensive shop/mechanic?

Thanks,000,000


- k -
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Old May 8, 2004 | 01:39 PM
  #2  
pip's Avatar
pip
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
I was under the impression that you still needed an r12 license to handle/purchase freeze 12.
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Old May 8, 2004 | 01:49 PM
  #3  
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kel
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From: A Mile Closer to God (Denver)
Hmmm. I haven't seen any reference to usage restrictions. I got the tip to use it on this forum as the best replacement for R-12.
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Old May 8, 2004 | 03:34 PM
  #4  
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From: sheppard AFB, TX
nope no license is needed so go for it!!!!!!!! I however would recommend durocool. BMW has used it for years and it's proven reliable I'll be using it myself. The prices are compareable. Durocool has oil in it! it's also set up for r134a fittings. they work 100x's better. They don't leak when you disconnect them. R12 connections do!!! R134a fittings cost between $8-$12 @ Advance Auto parts. I'm referrring to a retrofit. R134a guages are immensely better. So , if you want my opinion you got it for whatever it's worth.
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Old May 8, 2004 | 03:45 PM
  #5  
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From: sheppard AFB, TX
The restriction to refrigerant usage is the mixture of them. You CANNOT mix r12 and r134a. Big boom boom. You can mix durocool with either, it's just not legal. It's also a good idea to pull a vacuum to 27in/hg for approx. 15 min. Also, you should check for any leaks in your system. Both durocool and freeze 12 are hydrocarbon refridgerants and are flammable(to open flame). Don't let a leak go on unrepaired. R134a is explosive and corrsive and causes heart-attacks so don't waste your money. Durocool costs $7.99/ can. It requires only 35% the charge R12 does and is colder!!! That means lower head pressures and longer compressor life. Fuel economy will be a little better too!! R134a is $5.99/ can. It just seems worth it to me to use a product that's colder than 12 and requires less product to accomplish the same thing. Just remember 134a is JUNK!!
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Old May 8, 2004 | 03:53 PM
  #6  
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From: sheppard AFB, TX
ADvance sells r134a guages for $80. If you've got a buddy use him. you will ned to pull a vacuum. You don't want any air in there. I think that JCWhitney sells vacuum pumps but there like $200. You can check it out . Look for an old retired mechanic or someone who wouldn't mind helping. It'd be a good if he or she were a relative! There really aren't any gotchas to this stuff. It's awesome!!!! USE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old May 8, 2004 | 03:55 PM
  #7  
rotorbrain's Avatar
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From: sheppard AFB, TX
Visit foxtool.com or go to Durocool.com you'll learn alot about the product there.
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Old May 8, 2004 | 04:12 PM
  #8  
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From: Spacecenter Houston
Originally posted by rotorbrain
The restriction to refrigerant usage is the mixture of them. You CANNOT mix r12 and r134a. Big boom boom. You can mix durocool with either, it's just not legal.
Wrong--there is no law against mixing them--but it's not a very good idea. A mixture won't go boom. Let the chemical companys figure out how to mix them correctly. The biggest reason to not just mix them is because in general the synthetic and mineral oils don't mix well and turn into a goopy mess which won't help to lubricate your compressor.

Originally posted by rotorbrain
It's also a good idea to pull a vacuum to 27in/hg for approx. 15 min. Also, you should check for any leaks in your system.
Yep--good advice.

Originally posted by rotorbrain
R134a is explosive and corrsive and causes heart-attacks so don't waste your money.
Wrong it's not explosive or corrosive in normal environments or usage--it's no worse than any other refrigerant. I don't know where you get your info from but refrigerants are selected to avoid those properties. R-134a is not a bad refrigerant, it's just our systems were not designed for it. Generally you will loose 30% of your maximum capacity using 134a. Why, cause the compressor works off displacement or volume. Per unit volume, R-134a has a lower energy transfer capacity than R-12. Also, R-134a can get just as cold, but again your expansion valve is not designed for that refrigerant.

rotorbrain, it's good that you respond to kels post trying to help out but I suggest you post info from facts or experience to avoid misleading others.
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Old May 8, 2004 | 05:53 PM
  #9  
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From: Portland
So what is the best product to recharge our A/C systems with and how would one go about recharging it?
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Old May 8, 2004 | 06:56 PM
  #10  
Icemark's Avatar
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From: Rohnert Park CA
There was a thread on this exact thing within the last month... why is no one searching???
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