maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

ok its a 1987 rx7 with a turbo 2 engine transmission and drive train. i had the whole set up in another car running fine. i bought another one with a better body and swapped it out. i have fuel through the rails. i have spark on every spark plug. but there is no fuel seeming to go through the injectors. these are the same injectors that were on it b4 and ran perfect. i pull the plugs and there is no hint of fuel. it used to flood out so i had to put a toggle on it. now it wont even flood. the computer just came from rtek its a 1.7 i have the 550 720s in it. i wired up a safc to it. im wondering y my injectors arent seeming to fire. the safc wouldnt mess with the injector firing would it? my fuses are all good. checked all them. pulled the carpet again to make sure everything was all plugged in. is there anything i have to rewire on the swap since its a na car with a turbo 2 engine a na harness and a turbo 2 ecu?

HAILERS

Swap the fuel lines AT the engine and start the engine.

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

my whole fuel system is an fittings from rail to rail and to regulator. i had one side off and there was fuel going through the rails bc gas went every where. and i also squeezed the return line and i could feel the fuel running through it. thats y this is very odd to me.

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

fuel line comes into the regulator on the side goes out on the bottom to the top rail on back side of engine them comes out and goes down to bottom rail then out the back side to the return line. its a aeromotive fpr. what gets me is when i had it in the other car the fuel line came in on the bottom of the regulator and out the side. i had it hooked up like that and i couldnt get fuel what so ever to anything just to the regulator. it would just pressure up but not circulate and the fuel pump would sound horrible. i tried adjusting the the pressure and still wouldnt go to my rails. im stumped on it right now.

HAILERS

Do yourself a favor. Get up in the morning and buy a can of starter fluid at autozone/wherever.

Spray for two to three seconds into the air filter. Then with a fully charged battery try to start the engine. If it starts momentarily, then that proves its somehow a fuel problem. Never keep a engine running by spraying continuously into the air filter with starter fluid.

But you know it's a fuel problem more or less. I know of a one off way to prove the injectors are working or not electrically. If you had a spare cas you could connect it to the harness. Then with the small white plugs disconnected to the lead and trail coils, spin the cas bottom gear with the key ON. You should hear the primary injectors clicking.

I mention that method so you don't have to remove the intake and tie the injectors to the rail to visually see them working or not.

Another method is to buy a sinle LED from RS and install its positive lead to the B/W on the samll ECU plug and the other wire of the LED to the front primary fuel injector wire in that same plug. Light green wire I believe. Then spin the cas gear or spin the engine over and the LED should blink on/off as the ECU puts a gnd on the injectors wire.

Hell I don't know. I'm only up at 4:05 to watch MotoGP warmup practice in Jerez. Time to nap now. bye.

http://www.motogp.com/

HAILERS

Hmm. An 87. Might have been a early 87 with the solenoid resistor for the injectors. If you left that plug off then the injectors won't get batt voltage.

Solenoid resistor package was located below the airfilter/afm and bolted to the fender. Has one very large round plug with five pins/sockets. Not connecting it up is bad.

If memory serves, the fpr or regulator is the last thing that is in the fuel system before the excess fuel is sent back to the tank. I might have read your description wrong though.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/frails.htm

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

i have my fpr first. it was ran on the other car like this. and it ran fine. should i change it around? and the only plug that i found was right next to the boost pressure sensor. the rest were relays for the head lights. and it was made in 8/87 so it was a later year

HAILERS

Then your car has no solenoid resistor package so forget that idea.

The FPR Must be the last item in the fuel system before the excess fuel flows back to the tank.

The regulator, regulates the pressure b/t the last point in your fuel rail system and the fuel pump itself. The pump puts out 75-90 psi. The regulator keeps the pressure b/t the pump and the last point in the fuel rails regulated down to (pick a number) by bleeding off the excess pressure and letting that go back to the tank.

The way you have it set up, the regulator is regulating the pressure b/t the pump and the regulator itself. It's not regulating the pressure in the fuel rails. Seems to me your fuel rails are only seeing the bled off pressure of the fuel pump i.e. not much of anything.

Yeah, the FPR stock or aftermarket needs to be the last item in the system, not the first.

Look at the RETED's site and his fuel systems. Whether serial or parallel systems, all have the FPR last in line. Gotta be like that to do any regulating of the fuel rails. Get hoppin.

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

it worked perfect b4 this way though. never missed a beat. very strange. i guess ill be moving around the regulator

maz87t2

iTrader: (6)

thank hailers for the help. switched them around and fired right up. not running very smooth but it did idle.again thank you.

Ozurdin

hey i didnt really bother to read to much of the other post so idk if youve answered this prob. my car ran fine like a week ago but i havent drivin it in a week cause i was doin some work on the cooling system, makin new gaskets and stuff for the waterpump housing and thermostat, my car was overheating. When i was done my car wouldnt start. i changed the sparkplugs,wires, and i tried deflooding it in case it may have flooded but i cannot get it to start. anyone have any solutions?

MacLoGoS

Hi guys i have a 1985 rx7 GSL-SE with a turbo swap in it. It has rtek 1.8 with modded NA high imp harness and RC 750cc high imp injectors. Motor is freshly rebuild S5 turbo block and it has S5 turbo and exhaust manifold. The issue is when i spin the CAS with my hand the car acts like it wants to start but when i connect it in the engine it does not want to start on its own. I have not yet sprayed the intake with starter fluid but will try that soon. I just think its weird that it wants to start when i spin it with my hand but not when its in the car. I also replaced the starter brand new and it spins very fast. Also tried to swap ecu with another rtek 1.8 that was pulled from a running car and still nothing. Basically all the parts have been pulled from a running car. Hailers do you think you would know why its like this? I check the ecu and the wiring and it shows the correct voltage. i also have SAFC 2 installed but i have tried to remove it and still it wont start. I also replaced the fuel pump and have a switch that allows me to turn it on and off as i please so when i turn it on i can hear the fuel pump on and the fuel lines are full of pressure. I have removed the fuel injectors and spun the CAS with my hand. The injectors spray. But when i removed the Spark plugs and spun the car there was not much fuel that sprayed out. I would have figured that there should be lot of fuel cause of 4 750cc injectors. Any help would be very much appreciated. i have also tried to replace the coils. Still nothing.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Is the endine JDM? JDM engines have the fuel lines connected differently than their U.S. counterparts. On a U.S. version the outgoing line is closest to the firewall while on a JDM version it is farthest from the firewall. And make sure the CAS is stabbed properly.

Post #3. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/new-13b-first-start-loud-boom-timing-question-978911/

MacLoGoS

Yeah i am very sure the CAS is correct. When i set the engine to top dead center the marks on the CAS are lined up perfectly. I have also swapped the fuel lines and still nothing. I also just changed the fuel pump out cause i thought maybe not enough pressure. I installed a aeromotive 500 fuel pump that is rated at 45psi. Still the car just does not wanna start up. Gonna try the starter fluid in the intake trick and see if it starts up. The car has always been hard to start but when it warms up it stays on and cranks no prob. But that was before i changed the wireharness and ecu. It used to have modded S5 turbo harness and stock S5 turbo ecu. I was just wondering if anyone has had this issue where everything checks out but the car just wont start. Im starting to think the car just doesnt like me lol. Seems to me like its a cold start issue. But im not positive. I have also changed out the MAF and the Boost Sensor and still nothing. When i turn the key to the on position the tach needle doesnt move at all but when i crank the car the needle starts to pulse at a slow rate. When i spin the CAS with my hand the needle pulses much faster and seems more consistant. Thanks for the response. Much appreciated. Anyone seen this issue before? and no its not a JDM engine. Its the US spec S5 turbo block. The rats nest is the S4 turbo rats nest and the intake manifold is the S4 turbo also. Basically the only thing that is S5 in the car is the block and the turbo and exhaust manifold. Also the engine is not street ported or anything like that. Its just a rebuild with 50 miles on it. I know compression is prob low cause i havnt broken the engine in much but the car should at least start up and die if anything.

MacLoGoS

and when i say the needle i mean the tach needle lol. Sorry for confusion.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The 45psi fuel pressure will likely be too high as close to 30 psi during idle is spec and a bit above that for startup. Have you checked the Water Thermosensor for it's responsible for fuel amount selection when starting. It should read 2 to 3 volts w/key to on and engine cold , and .4 volts when fully warmed. Pin 2I at the ECU is the spot to read voltage from.

MacLoGoS

I will be sure to check that as soon as i can. The stock fuel pump had bad connections on it so i have to get another one before i can take the racing pump out. Still with 45psi the car should show signs of life cause i have used it before and the car just had shitty idle and ran hella rich. Thanks for your reply. I know i will get this thing to run like a champ. Just cant lose the faith lol. I will be sure to let you know if i get it to fire up. Here in San Francisco the weather is super cold so working outside right now is rough lol.

MacLoGoS

Hey satch so i sprayed starter fluid into the intake and the car backfired but wouldnt start up. removed the primary fuel rail and spun the CAS with my hand and the injectors fired. Checked the spark plugs for spark and i def have spark. Checking thermosensor for voltage. Basically the car should fire up but its being a real bitch right now lol. Would there be a reason why i spray starter fluid and the car wont fire up but i have spark??

MacLoGoS

Just checked water thermosensor. 3.38 volts when cold. Still no start when i try to fire it up with starter fluid.

satch

iTrader: (1)

When you use starter fluid it is best to unplug the fuel pump to prevent too much fuel from being used. So disconnect the pump and deflood the engine and then try the starter fluid and then plug the pump back in.

MacLoGoS

Yeah i tried that and still no start. Im going to assume there is a prob with the NA harness that used. Took it out of a junkyard car so there is prob a crossed wire somewhere in the loom. Im going to replace the whole harness again with a harness from my buddies car and his car fires up no prob. I will let you know if that fixed it. Should be done by tonight. Thanks Satch.

MacLoGoS

Ok so now after changing out the wireharness it fires right up. Must have been a bad wire in the other harness. Just have to tune it for cruising. Thanks for replying to my posts Satch.