has anyone used a capacitor
02-15-12, 10:56 PM
#1
rotory chicken
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has anyone used a capacitor
im getting alot of draw on my electrical at idle so im thinking of using a capacitor to try and help this does anyone know if this works or can help ?
02-15-12, 11:05 PM
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That's not what a capacitor does . It wouldn't have any effect on the power draw of the vehicle, it would absorb spikes in the system and might help stop premature ignition cross fire and maybe help with radio noise . JMO
02-15-12, 11:32 PM
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rotory chicken
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im at about 12v at idle as soon as i bump rpms to maybe 2k im at 13.5 ive replaced alternators finally ordered a 135 amp it helped im not getting dead batteries now but at night my hid headlight still dim at idle i will be adding a sound system soon with a 4 farad capacitor and was thinking maybe one under the hood right next to the battery might fix my other issues any ideas on this ?
02-15-12, 11:36 PM
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i know its basicaly a small battery with low impedence i think my hid lights and ecu along with the ls ignition coils and bigger fuel pump are causing spikes and without the engine revved up and the higher amp alternator it was killing my batteries and alty so now that i have it running fine im thinking this might keep my battery charged all together and leave more power in stock for when i hit the gas and have all this junk sucking juice
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02-15-12, 11:46 PM
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rotory chicken
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well here is a list of mods that are suspect
hid headlights
e6x ecu
not sure the size but very large fuel pump
ls6 ingnition coils i think theyy are from a ls
two speed e fan
maybe stock alarm but im pretty sure its completly disabled
thats pretty much it that i can think of anyway
oh lucky 7 belt pully as well
hid headlights
e6x ecu
not sure the size but very large fuel pump
ls6 ingnition coils i think theyy are from a ls
two speed e fan
maybe stock alarm but im pretty sure its completly disabled
thats pretty much it that i can think of anyway
oh lucky 7 belt pully as well
02-15-12, 11:51 PM
#9
rotory chicken
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schaffed here is a link about the kind of capacitor im thinking of using probably a 5 farad
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audi...capacitors.htm
http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audi...capacitors.htm
Last edited by hsilive; 02-16-12 at 12:11 AM.
02-15-12, 11:56 PM
#10
Is the battery in the stock location or has it been moved already? Also look into adding a 2nd battery if you plan on adding a sound system. You think your lights dim at idle now, wait til you're trying to push power through whatever speakers/subs you install.
02-16-12, 12:03 AM
#12
Originally Posted by hsilive
im at about 12v at idle as soon as i bump rpms to maybe 2k im at 13.5
02-16-12, 12:07 AM
#13
rotory chicken
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no the alty isnt stock but the casing and pig tail are hmm so your thinking the field wire isnt working ? thats what we call the wire that "triggers " the alty right ? and if so what controls that wire grrr i hate electrical
02-16-12, 12:22 AM
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rotory chicken
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yup pretty diagrams but im afraid all that looks correct the reason i mentioned the allty and pullys is maybe the size of the pully may be underdriving the alty ? maybe ?
Last edited by hsilive; 02-16-12 at 12:27 AM.
02-16-12, 12:30 AM
#18
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Do not add a capacitor
Do not add a 2nd battery
Just sort out the wiring for the alternator.
If it was a used one, get it checked/rebuild
No need in complicating the electrical systems if that doesnt fix your problem. Especially if you are not in to electrical systems, then you will only make it worse!
Do not add a 2nd battery
Just sort out the wiring for the alternator.
If it was a used one, get it checked/rebuild
No need in complicating the electrical systems if that doesnt fix your problem. Especially if you are not in to electrical systems, then you will only make it worse!
02-16-12, 12:39 AM
#19
rotory chicken
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its a new alty that runs on the same pigtails and braket the only thing diff from stock is the lucky 7 pully and no i will not add a 1200w system without a capacitor or maybe the extra battery niether of those complicate anything as thtey can be unplugged if needed plus it was for my birthday !
02-16-12, 06:21 AM
#20
The problem is that you have an alternator rewound for higher output. Known as a 'Rewind'.
http://www.motorcityreman.com/technical-info.html
http://www.motorcityreman.com/technical-info.html
Keep in mind that you are not installing a stock alternator and it will not function the same on your car as your stock alternator does. The most common problem you may experience on initial installation is low out put at idle. This problem is easily solved with system upgrades that we describe below.
If you are not prepared to make needed system upgrades or feel you will not need to make those upgrades for whatever reason, please do not attempt this project.
WARNING - IF THE POSITIVE BATTERY WIRE IS NOT UPGRADED, YOUR NEW HIGH AMP ALTERNATOR WILL NOT FUNCTION CORRECTLY!!!
WARNING - UPON INITIAL INSTALLATION OF YOUR NEW HIGH AMP ALTERNATOR, IF YOU HAVE VOLTAGE READINGS OF 12V OR LOWER AND WHEN YOU INCREASE ENGINE RPM THE VOLTAGE READING INCREASES TO 13-14V, YOU HAVE A SLIPPING BELT OR INCORRECT PULLEY RATIO OR BOTH.
**** WHEN YOU HAVE THESE SYMPTOMS, THE ALTERNATOR IS NOT BAD ****
Rewound alternators for higher amperage are a cludge. The trade off is lower output at low rpm. Rewinds frequently need a pulley change so they turn at a higher speed during idle operation or they will suffer low voltage during idle. Trade-offs to the pully change include excessive alternator speed at higher engine rpms. I'm not saying that it will explode, but someone else will. Unless you actually *drive* your car like an RX7, this shouldn't be a problem. As long as you just idle, listen to loud music and watch oncoming traffic burst into flames due to your HID lights you should be fine...
If you are not prepared to make needed system upgrades or feel you will not need to make those upgrades for whatever reason, please do not attempt this project.
WARNING - IF THE POSITIVE BATTERY WIRE IS NOT UPGRADED, YOUR NEW HIGH AMP ALTERNATOR WILL NOT FUNCTION CORRECTLY!!!
WARNING - UPON INITIAL INSTALLATION OF YOUR NEW HIGH AMP ALTERNATOR, IF YOU HAVE VOLTAGE READINGS OF 12V OR LOWER AND WHEN YOU INCREASE ENGINE RPM THE VOLTAGE READING INCREASES TO 13-14V, YOU HAVE A SLIPPING BELT OR INCORRECT PULLEY RATIO OR BOTH.
**** WHEN YOU HAVE THESE SYMPTOMS, THE ALTERNATOR IS NOT BAD ****
02-16-12, 10:34 AM
#22
rotory chicken
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Damn straight the pull is most likely my suspect hmmm I hope lucky 7 has different sizes I'm thinking slightly smaller does anyone know what pull sizes equal what rpm I'm afraid I don't have a umm rpm clocking tool or whatever you call it but I figure maybe a 6% smaller pull should give me what I need there without running it at too high of a rpm
02-16-12, 10:46 AM
#24
rotory chicken
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Damn straight the pull is most likely my suspect hmmm I hope lucky 7 has different sizes I'm thinking slightly smaller does anyone know what pull sizes equal what rpm I'm afraid I don't have a umm rpm clocking tool or whatever you call it but I figure maybe a 6% smaller pull should give me what I need there without running it at too high of a rpm