when putting in your standalone and after tune how relible and what kind of performance did you notice

 

Solid as a rock no issues to talk about so reliablilty is not an issue for me as for performace not sure yet i have been breaking in my new motor for the last few months so the tune is purposely rich and forgiving

Finial tune in the spring.

As long as you install properly with crimps or solder, wiring sheilding, heat sheilding and correct wiring pratices you will not have problems. make sure yyou tie down and secure all wires as well

hybrid

 

never solder.

 

THIS X2, possibly more-

OEM Manufucturers no longer solder wires in vehicle harnesses, the FAA doesnot allow solder to be used in critical areas, and that should tell us all something. Solder does not like all the things an engine harness has to live with- extreme temperature changes, vibration, stress, etc. which can and will lead to issues.

Use PROPER terminals- not cheap stuff bought at parts stores. The stuff they sell there for the most part is meant to get you home when your broken, not to actually build a harness with.

A proper set of terminal crimpers are not terribly expensive and will give results you can have confidence in. The stamped steel set of crimpers that came in your univeral wiring kit from the parts store is good to have under the seat of the truck in case the trailer lights stop working outside of Tucumcari NM, but otherwise pretty useless.

Where you have to use pigtails use butt splice connectors, shrink tubing, and good planning.

 

yeah i have read the debate many of times...... I crimp, its easier faster and side with the advantges of crimping rather than soldering.

So to each its own i just put the two sides of the coin/issue out there take ur pick

hybrid

 

I never soldered anything either, least because I didn't have a soldering iron. I've had ZERO connection problems. I did use a lot of heat shrinking though

 

has anyone a pic of the haltech harness.....the wife has given me the green light to order next friday yipeeeeeee

 

Which one did you order? It's all online regardless. If you can't navigate the haltech website how do you expect to install it

 

ive been to all the forums ,i just wanted to see some installs on there cars...i should have been more specific...i have enough info on the install

 

What exactly do you mean installs? Wire routing? Sensor mounting?

FYI or anyone else:
If you run an S4, I HAVE SUCCEEDED in retaining the stock mechanical OMP AND Throttle Position Sensor with a standalone computer. I will make a thread on this soon and get pictures.

 

yep. even the narrowband tps should work, it is just used for decel fuel cut, closed loop fuel, and throttle pump settings, which can be set to work with it.

really you should be able to use stock coolant and map sensors also, if you plan on running under 15psi. the only non-factory sensor you really need is the intake air temp

 

there are two main things to keep in mind here. use proper crimpers, and proper terminals.

there are two sides to a harness. ecu side, and sensor side. the ecu side is the end that connects to the ecu, and it is generally inside the car. thats about it. the other is in the engine bay.

you will have to figure out the wipers as the harness for that ties into the dashboard for the water temp. and it also ties into the engine harness.

if its an s5, the ignition portion or the harness will not come out with the engine harness. its in with the chasis harness. just use the three wires from that and you are good to go.

the cas wireing and some other wireing is part of the chasis harness on an s4 car. youll figure it out. or.. just tuck it away. you can use the cas connector if you want. just make sure you sheild that sucker good.

this is easy to do.

the main power wire and main negative wire must go straight to the battery, or to the under hood fuse box. the negative can be grounded on almost anything.

one of the wires you will need to run to the back for the fuel pump. find the fuel pump + wire after the connector, and connect it to that while removing it from the main harness.

other things like ignition and whatnot are simple. everything else, is a no brainer. like i said... use rope to map it out.

leave 6 inches of slack on the end of each connector so that if you need to wire ing a different connector, you'll have plenty of wire left over.

thats about all the advice i can give you. after you wire it in, crank the car, and it fires up for the first time, you can breathe a sigh of releif as thats the main hurdle to get past.




ps... im drunk. sue me.

 

Thats cool. I adapted an S5 to use the mechanical OMP and use the S5 TB/TPS etc and made it feed from an external tank holding 2-stroke oil. I probbaly should have made a thread, but its all pretty normal stuff, not really a big deal at all. Oh, and I turbo'ed it to with an WAIC setup and kept the 6-port actuation, the stock harness, AND......... ran a Haltech E-something or the other, I think 11. Whatever it was it adequately ran the car but nothing outstanding.

Cheers!

EDIT: I will shoot some pics of my harness tomorrow and post them for you, it really cannot get much simpler.

 

thanks beefhole ..thats something ill be doing stock tps..stock omp

i got basically tired of my set up ,my idle was all over the place..i had to keep setting the tps etc...i almost thought of getting a rtec ..but then ill still be dealing with my 20 year old ecu

its time for my 7 to be reborn...in this same thread ill be doing the install of my haltech sport

with pics...im sure some members have good results with rtec ...but haltech has been around a long time for the 7s

so that was my choice

 

all this talk of OMP, I cant stand the pre mix smell and after all the trouble we went to getting a 2 stroke reservoir and injecting it and controlling it by throttle linkage using a S4 front cover

I am going FD intake this winter and thinking of putting this controller in and using a S5 OMP again http://eomp.info/

 

Arggg I went to take some pics, and the battery on my camera died after 2 shots. They came out blurry regardless. I will try and get them tomorrow.

 

I love the premix smell

 

thanks so much

 

Have any more info on this standalone elect. OMP controller? Unless I'm missing something it looks like it controls the pump with only one 0-5volt linear perameter, TPS( or Map signal if you wire it up like that).So essentially an electronically controlled mech. pump(as the mech. pump just uses a rod off the TB to determine oil flow). Kind of expensive if that's how it works, even a simple small 6x6 load map would be more then enough. I guess it does have a trim function on the plumger so you inject a small percentage more or less then the factory programs them for. Also curious if it uses the feedback error check function to determine a faulty pump, as it shows Those emop wires connected on the wiring diagrams?

 

yes it uses feedback,, yes it uses a 5v source for the primary load signal
( so does your MAP, so does your MAF, so does your TPS if you have a bridgey and have it tuned in TPS mode )

what you are missing-- OMP ,, and EOMP also have RPM as a major factor of the injection volume
you only have to read the "OMP Declassified" thread series to understand that the rpm has a radical bearing on the injection volume and very much makes up the 3rd leg of a true 3d equation when used with a load / motor position input

if you think that anybody here has resources to directly map load input V rpm and plot the output and then write an output map based on that for lineal progression of flow with load and fit it in a 6 x 6 map then your asking a bit much
we did in fact develop one with multiple inputs , offset bias against each other and 128 load sites
( while the mazda one has only a tenth of that definition )
it proved way to unwieldy for people to understand , prone to hunt if the sample rate was too high
and in view of the flow dynamics of the pump and RPM not being a linear function
- then was entirely unpractical for its cost and complexity in view of this simple fool proof system

as is ----
you have a load input which affects the motor output position ,,and the pumps output is also proportional to rpm
and that is pretty much what you get with the lever and rod
( except the EOMP can be instantly trimmed and calibrated,, the OMP rod needs the bonnet open and a bit of time in a hot bay )


expensive??
have you ever had an s4 rx7,, that killed the motor ,, and all you can find are s5 block replacements?
now,, ever had to pay that shop to convert your TB, your timing cover and turbo drains all back to s4?
or even wanted to slug you for wiring and s5 ECU ,, or an aftermarket one?

with the EOMP,, you have the option to retain the stock s4 ECU
( and delete the ballast resister )
to run your s5 block
-- the block will fit in with zero mods,, and all can be done at home

i call that,, i view of paying instead for an easy wire in controller
and not paying many hours of shop labour to retro the engine
or to fit an s5 ECU and loom
a HUGE saving,, of time,, and of money

thats also before you consider the price is still a saving over deciding on a cheaper aftermarket ecu ( that cant run the EOMP ) to one that can

then even if you have the fancy ECU,, do you really want to tie up 4 outputs and one input to run this??
wouldnt you rather keep it for throttle ( rx8 ) or for some types of idle control motors?

this device will free up all those outputs for better/ higher uses

--rx8 owners with microtechs are finding this a very attractive proposition and dont have any other options beyond very pricey ECU's

 

Thanks for the info, as someone looking for a emop control solution can you elaborate more on the feedback function built in? Does it give some indication of pump failure, because that would definitly be a strong selling feature. As I understand it , standalones like haltechs and some others don't incorporate the feedback and just treat it as a 4 or 5 wire stepper motor,so if the pump craps you wouldn't know.

Can you give some dimensions of the controller and the screen?

I understand how the omp works , that's why the factory emop has the advantage of injecting less oil at higher rpm's and low load. There was a post floating around here with the two factory manual graph's of the output of S4 and S5 omp's graphically displaying that.

Why would you ever need 128 load points for a emop I mean you aren't controlling fuel injection just a POS omp? But I do see the added time/packaging and display complexity in hardware/ softwear developement for a standalone emop controller since you need to condition and bring in the inputs like rpm etc. where standalones have that inbuilt already.

This is a basic emop controller and I don't mean that in a neg. sense, but like I said maybe you can elaborate on how the feedback works on this controller as that is a definite big plus in considering this.

Point taken about the cost commet, but cost is relative. cheers

 

and you may well find i posted it
i am also the one who advocates the MAP sensor as source for the load ,, as its a fair bit more proportional to engine load than TPS position
( so main variables for the output are RPM and engine vacuum )

if you watch the posted vids on the linked site you may see the output screen has the setpoint,, and the process variable displayed
( the process variable is the feedback position sensor )
when they match,, a big OK is registered on the display

the EOMP uints,, depending on the batch do have some evolution in shape, but all are basically not all that much different in screen size to those prototypes pictured
( out biggest cost is in fact the case and screen )
at latest evolution it proved cheaper for us
( and produces a cleaner end product )
to purchase already running USB programmable speed controllers ( RC ) to gut them and just use display and case with our guts and relabel it !

its pic chip technology, 8 bits,, so things will go in multiples of 8
basically initially it was the TPS,, broken into 128 bin sites for 100 % of the stroke
this would be offset against engine load from a map sensor ( 128 bins over 5 V )
and rpms ( 128 bins over 0-10 000 rpms )
the idea would be that these would go through a primary algorithm ,, of which the user had some input as to the factors and offsets
( you can see the sums are getting very funky for the end user to understand )

this is all before we had worked out how much input and resolution was in the factory output to the pump
( which is actually very crude in its output position definition )
and worked out that some ECU's may not like to share some inputs,, and would amount to extra map sensors and a tacho circuit and much un-needed complication and duplications
( especially in view of the very non linear relationship between delivery and output position )

so we settled on something much simpler,, and the reason will come apparent with the final point


as is,, this ,, with a simple 0-5 V load signal can be run from a MAP sensor
( usually spare in nearly every aftermarket conversion )
OR
the unused full range TPS in s5's with aftermarket ECU or s4 ECU
OR
from a airflow meter
OR ( and this is especially important ) use a 5V output map written in any aftermarket ECU's auxillery maps
( which can be rev and load based and written in 3D )

so,, in the last point,, you no longer need an ECU with dedicated stepper outs
you just need one with a 5V out and an aux map
( or you need a just a map sensor or full range TPS output for an unmapped version )


since this is going O/T for the original post,, i suggest you email jason,, or post on his website the questions regard dimensions of screen and final box

BTW my input was at the design stages ,, i have no business interest in the sales ( all the products are jasons hard work )
as is i will help him promote the product by pointing out the need, but take no profit

 

i was reading that rtec has figured a way for the s5 to use a mechnical omp without going into limp mode ...but im still going standalone friday is the big day for me to order my haltech sport with plug and play harness ..i have my injectors pump ...one other thing do you guys reccomend a fpr

 

yes,, FPR is an important tuning tool,, and prudent to fit now before setup
- juggling the base fuel pressure just a few PSI is sometimes easier and better than using the limited mix trims or shifting an entire map up or down to suit
- also useful as a quick diagnostic change to suss out flat spots and glitches
( ie,, if you bump fuel pressure 5 psi and hesitations get better,, its pretty obvious to all that the hesitation is a lean out and you now know what your looking for )

PS replace your fuel dampener with a banjo fitting,, and think about the simple mods needed to make the fuel system parallel feed to each rail

 

bumpstart- I dont think the price is bad at all for the EOMP controller

thank you for developing it