has any one a reliable standalone set up
11-06-10, 10:13 PM
#29
rtech is a piggy back.
reliablility is in the install and tune. therefore I suggest, see what standalone your local tuner uses and get that, I would also get one with a new wiring harness 20yr+ harness is a no no....
All units mention in this thread are capable, some more features than others, rtech does not count its a piggy back.
reliablility is in the install and tune. therefore I suggest, see what standalone your local tuner uses and get that, I would also get one with a new wiring harness 20yr+ harness is a no no....
All units mention in this thread are capable, some more features than others, rtech does not count its a piggy back.
11-07-10, 12:58 AM
#31
Keep in mind "Piggy back" is sort of a dirty word in engine management circles, so when someone refers to a system as a "piggy back" they often mean to put it down or otherwise sleight it.
What the Rtek does is reprogram your factory ECU, in part by doing hardware modifications. This is like a Hondata for OBD 1 Hondas, a Moates Quarterhorse for older 5.0 Fords, a Calum ECU for 90s Nissans, or DSM Link for Eclipse/Talon/Laser. It's in the same category as these systems. I suppose you could call it a "piggy back" if you really want to, but the Rtek doesn't intercept and manipulate ECU inputs and outputs in the way that an SAFC or Greddy Emanage would. Don't think it is automatically an inferior system compared to a standalone. Many of the sensor and wiring issues you may have to overcome when installing and running a standalone are not an issue at all with an Rtek. This adds a measure of reliability to it in comparison. The Rtek directly changes the fuel and timing calculation inside the computer rather than just trying to "trick" the computer by manipulating its inputs and outputs. In many ways it's no different than reprogramming/reflashing the factory computer on a modern Corvette, Evo, or STi.
The chief advantage of the Rtek besides cost is the driveability and reliability of an OEM computer. It works right out of the box and as long as you have clean grounds electrical noise will not be a problem. The car will drive fine as long as you have the proper injector combination. The chief limitation of the Rtek is that it is limited by the factory AFM. If you are using a bolt-on turbo like a BNR it will most likely fit your needs without the amount of time and money required for a standalone. If you are going for a bigger power build, like a GT35 or larger turbo then this system won't work well for you.
The chief limitations of the Rtek are the sensing capacity of the factory AFM and injector staging limitations. When you try to draw a lot of air through the factory AFM the airflow reading "maxes out" on the Rtek which makes proper fuel tuning more challenging. At some point the AFM becomes a physical restriction as well. As for the injectors, the Rtek is designed for as big as 720/720 but has been run with 720/1000 . If you go bigger than that in the secondary position you start to run into driveability headaches. The generally accepted power range for the Rtek 2.1 is mid 300s to the wheels if properly tuned.
What the Rtek does is reprogram your factory ECU, in part by doing hardware modifications. This is like a Hondata for OBD 1 Hondas, a Moates Quarterhorse for older 5.0 Fords, a Calum ECU for 90s Nissans, or DSM Link for Eclipse/Talon/Laser. It's in the same category as these systems. I suppose you could call it a "piggy back" if you really want to, but the Rtek doesn't intercept and manipulate ECU inputs and outputs in the way that an SAFC or Greddy Emanage would. Don't think it is automatically an inferior system compared to a standalone. Many of the sensor and wiring issues you may have to overcome when installing and running a standalone are not an issue at all with an Rtek. This adds a measure of reliability to it in comparison. The Rtek directly changes the fuel and timing calculation inside the computer rather than just trying to "trick" the computer by manipulating its inputs and outputs. In many ways it's no different than reprogramming/reflashing the factory computer on a modern Corvette, Evo, or STi.
The chief advantage of the Rtek besides cost is the driveability and reliability of an OEM computer. It works right out of the box and as long as you have clean grounds electrical noise will not be a problem. The car will drive fine as long as you have the proper injector combination. The chief limitation of the Rtek is that it is limited by the factory AFM. If you are using a bolt-on turbo like a BNR it will most likely fit your needs without the amount of time and money required for a standalone. If you are going for a bigger power build, like a GT35 or larger turbo then this system won't work well for you.
The chief limitations of the Rtek are the sensing capacity of the factory AFM and injector staging limitations. When you try to draw a lot of air through the factory AFM the airflow reading "maxes out" on the Rtek which makes proper fuel tuning more challenging. At some point the AFM becomes a physical restriction as well. As for the injectors, the Rtek is designed for as big as 720/720 but has been run with 720/1000 . If you go bigger than that in the secondary position you start to run into driveability headaches. The generally accepted power range for the Rtek 2.1 is mid 300s to the wheels if properly tuned.
11-07-10, 06:51 AM
#32
if you are in queens you literally have your choice of tuners, look in the Northeast section for a sticky of respected tuners who tune different set ups
tuners: https://www.rx7club.com/ne-rx-7-forum-30/northeast-rx7-tuner-list-comprehensive-tried-true-733557/, or go ask the T&R guys, they may even have something used
You are in a good position!
tuners: https://www.rx7club.com/ne-rx-7-forum-30/northeast-rx7-tuner-list-comprehensive-tried-true-733557/, or go ask the T&R guys, they may even have something used
You are in a good position!
11-07-10, 07:05 AM
#33
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Ive been working with tony for a few months now had him install and tune a platinum sport 1000 no issues awsome computer and awsome people there,
i have a pfc and adaptor harness for sale if u choose to go that route.
any questions shot me a pm ill be back to see tony next week
i have a pfc and adaptor harness for sale if u choose to go that route.
any questions shot me a pm ill be back to see tony next week
11-07-10, 04:23 PM
#34
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now with that platinum sport..how involve is it when it comes to adding coils and harnesses
because the rtec seems to be a nice add on with just a chip install
for a bnr stage 2 and still get over 300hp
because the rtec seems to be a nice add on with just a chip install
for a bnr stage 2 and still get over 300hp
11-08-10, 06:40 PM
#38
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it seems the rtec is more user friendly may not be a standalone but it seems more relible ...i went to the rtec forum and one guy dynoed 300hp i weonder if it could handle my bnr stage 2 turbo..or will it max out
11-08-10, 09:34 PM
#39
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have a look in the dyno section here, the BNR stage 2 and rtek are kinda popular, i think the record is about 360hp. 280-300 should be no trouble
11-10-10, 06:27 AM
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My old set-up 13bt hybrid turbo 320 RWHP microtech. 22 hghwy mpg.
Once it is installed should be a non issue you shouldnt need a retune unless you change mods. Problems that can occur will probably be in wiring or acc. i.e. inj, coil cas. The down side of microtech it dosent log o2 .
so when you decide on a ecu get a wideband just so you can monitor.
Once it is installed should be a non issue you shouldnt need a retune unless you change mods. Problems that can occur will probably be in wiring or acc. i.e. inj, coil cas. The down side of microtech it dosent log o2 .
so when you decide on a ecu get a wideband just so you can monitor.
11-10-10, 06:46 AM
#45
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im trying to stay away from injector and coil issues....just install and tune...
it shouldnt be so complicated..that i have to spend all my time figuring it out
our cars are older so im looking for a straight forward install
it shouldnt be so complicated..that i have to spend all my time figuring it out
our cars are older so im looking for a straight forward install
11-10-10, 06:58 AM
#46
Power FC. Plug and Play and completely tuneable
Rock solid injector staging, no CAS pick up issues, saveable maps with DL, tons of support both online and from any shop that tunes RX-7s. Eliminates the ECU, AFM and OEM boost sensor. Allows you to expand to more HP down the road. Not to mention it comes with a hand controller that allows you to monitor up to 8 different engine paramaters.
http://banzai-racing.com/store/S4_PFC_adapter.html
http://banzai-racing.com/store/S5_PFC_adapter.html
Rock solid injector staging, no CAS pick up issues, saveable maps with DL, tons of support both online and from any shop that tunes RX-7s. Eliminates the ECU, AFM and OEM boost sensor. Allows you to expand to more HP down the road. Not to mention it comes with a hand controller that allows you to monitor up to 8 different engine paramaters.
http://banzai-racing.com/store/S4_PFC_adapter.html
http://banzai-racing.com/store/S5_PFC_adapter.html
11-10-10, 07:12 AM
#47
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I use the AEM (first edition), which everyone says they had problems with. Mine is problem free. Its all in tuning. If your tuner doesn't have a clue, he will bad mouth any ecu. There are good points and bad for any stand alone, but don't take someones opionion on what ecu is bad or good unless they've used it. I've had 3 fd's and used the AEM, Tec3, Power FC, and Haltec. All do the job well. (FC won't matter, just a bit of wiring) Overall, out of all of them, the AEM is my favorite for ease of use and plug/play ability. I make a ton of power with it and have had zero problems thus far. Street or track, it has my vote. Your setup is 300hp so you can go with almost anything. Pwr FC, aem, haltech, they're all good.
Last edited by ErnieT; 11-10-10 at 07:14 AM.
11-10-10, 01:48 PM
#48
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PFC is Probly the best bang for the buck in terms of ease of install and monitoring. I was used to the commander showing me all my my readings and now that I went Haltech I no longer can watch all my engine vitals I do miss the commander, but there are pros and cons to everything.
If you do decide to go PFC, I have one for sale mounted to the stock ecu bracket and s4 banzai adaptor for cheap
James
If you do decide to go PFC, I have one for sale mounted to the stock ecu bracket and s4 banzai adaptor for cheap
James
11-10-10, 01:54 PM
#49
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I use the AEM (first edition), which everyone says they had problems with. Mine is problem free. Its all in tuning. If your tuner doesn't have a clue, he will bad mouth any ecu. There are good points and bad for any stand alone, but don't take someones opionion on what ecu is bad or good unless they've used it. I've had 3 fd's and used the AEM, Tec3, Power FC, and Haltec. All do the job well. (FC won't matter, just a bit of wiring) Overall, out of all of them, the AEM is my favorite for ease of use and plug/play ability. I make a ton of power with it and have had zero problems thus far. Street or track, it has my vote. Your setup is 300hp so you can go with almost anything. Pwr FC, aem, haltech, they're all good.
also microtech has been very reliable for me 
Last edited by flaco; 11-10-10 at 02:03 PM. Reason: more
11-10-10, 02:26 PM
#50
PFC is Probly the best bang for the buck in terms of ease of install and monitoring. I was used to the commander showing me all my my readings and now that I went Haltech I no longer can watch all my engine vitals I do miss the commander, but there are pros and cons to everything.
If you do decide to go PFC, I have one for sale mounted to the stock ecu bracket and s4 banzai adaptor for cheap
James
If you do decide to go PFC, I have one for sale mounted to the stock ecu bracket and s4 banzai adaptor for cheap
James
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