2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Is it hard to swap steering racks?

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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 08:37 PM
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Is it hard to swap steering racks?

Hey, im going to be switching to a manual rack. I currently have a really hacked up power rack but with the pump removed.
Im just wondering how hard it is to remove the steering racks and replace it with a manual one.
Thanks
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 08:44 PM
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unless you already have the engine out, its going to be a PITA.
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 08:45 PM
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I havent done it, but from what I remember about looking at my p/s rack it seemed like there were 2 clams holding the hydrolics down then just that extra tubing that went in front of the radiator(for cooling?) Then you got the tie-rods...
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 08:47 PM
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he could just jack the engine up to get to those bolts, right?
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Old Apr 8, 2004 | 10:15 PM
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6 bolts hold the rack to the frame, Than you'll need to loosen the tie-rod ends.

Biggest PITA are the acctuall fluid lines that run into/out of the steering rack. These bolts tend to be extreamly tight.

Should take about 25 min or so with proper tools

Good luck!
-Markus R. (Rotary Fanatic)
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 11:36 AM
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The fluid lines that go up are cut. Im going to follow the FSM and Haynes to get it done. Is there any short cuts i can take? Anything you guys reccomend doing that can make this install any easier??
Thanks.
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 12:41 PM
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Don't forget to use the Pipe that we used to help us remove the exhaust because that thing greatly help with torque
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 02:28 PM
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meh i need to do this too... if install my manual rack and the steering wheel is offcenter, will an alignment shop fix it if i have them do an alignment? Plus my steerwheel has been off about 70 degrees since I removed and reinstaled the steering column to get the pedals in/out. I'm probably off by 2-3 splines...
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 02:31 PM
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you dont need the manual rack.properly removed PS feels great.
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 02:43 PM
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Originally posted by Adolphus
you dont need the manual rack.properly removed PS feels great.
Says the user with 1 post.

RylAssassin:

With the pump already removed it should not be that hard. Key thing would be to make sure the wheel is straight, and mark your tie-rod ends so the alignment is close enough to safely get you to the alignment shop when your finished. Just take your time and everything should go smoothly. Not sure of your mechanical abilities but it should take you any where from 20-30mins to an hour.

Just make sure before you start this that you have the passenger side mount and grommet for the manual rack, as it is different that the PS one.

- Dana
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 02:49 PM
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Originally posted by Rotary Racer


Just make sure before you start this that you have the passenger side mount and grommet for the manual rack, as it is different that the PS one.

- Dana

Is that the part thats like a cuff arond the round bar part of the rack... rather, do you see it here

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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 02:59 PM
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Yeah its the smaller bracket on the top (pointed twards the sky). The dia. of the power rack is larger, so the power rack mount wont fit on the smaller dia manual shaft. But it looks like you got it so no worries.

- Dana
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 03:02 PM
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good to know.. just have to get my butt of teh couch and install it sometime. I need the money for the alignment too though. Oh.. and will the alignment shop align the steering wheel/column?
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 03:07 PM
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Originally posted by Kenteth
good to know.. just have to get my butt of teh couch and install it sometime. I need the money for the alignment too though. Oh.. and will the alignment shop align the steering wheel/column?
It's usually standard operating procedure that they make sure the wheel is straight before they lock in your alignment. + when you are swapping out the rack you can get it lined up your self before you take it to the shop. PM me for details I don’t want to hog this thread any more .

- Dana “straight thread jacker”
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 03:17 PM
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Originally posted by Adolphus
you dont need the manual rack.properly removed PS feels great.
He is acctually correct. Somewhat. but it needs to be capped, properly or substantial damage can be had to the existing P/S rack.

We've been useing Power racks on our race-cars for years only because the manual rack has too light of a feel to it. But again, it really depends on what your plans are for the particular vehicle.

hell, maybe i'm just blabber mouthing. who knows

-markus
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 03:31 PM
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Relisys190: No your not you are actually giving some facts as to why you like it.

My GTUs is my open track/auto-x/fun car. I am running the manual rack and “feel” it is better (I guess everyone is going to have there own interpretation). But don’t you think Mazda made the manual rack slightly different for a reason? I generally try to use parts as they were intended to be used. Just my .02

- Dana
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Old Apr 9, 2004 | 09:03 PM
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Kenteth would you please stop jacking my thread. Its just as easy to hit the NEW THREAD button and find out for yourself.
Just make sure before you start this that you have the passenger side mount and grommet for the manual rack, as it is different that the PS one.
Could you please clear this up for me a bit. So the manual rack doesent fit onto a TII with a PS rack? Where are these mentioned parts to make it fit??
Thanks.

Last edited by RylAssassin; Apr 9, 2004 at 09:05 PM.
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