well my battery was being drained till i finally found the problem, i fixed that and changed the terminals, but once i try to start the car it kinda turns then just clicks, so in order for me to start the car i have to pump the gas pedal and wish it starts, could it be the injectors the fuel filter, just seems weird that it started to do that

 

It clicks or turns over?

 

it turns over and if it doesn't start it starts to click of course, but i have to pump fuel in it and hope it starts but this morning it didn't start, now i missed a college class for summer >:, i checked oil aswell and its a bit over full could this also cause a problem, but anyways im gonna check the fuel pump and spark plugs, could it also be flooded bc ive never had a flooding problem, i don't think ive ever had it flooded after over 3years

 

well removed both bottom spark plugs and sprayed some "electric contact" on it and started, sanded the spark plugs a bit, still seems like it has trouble starting, anything i should do to make sure

 

yet again, it did not start, still hard to start like its not getting any fuel, gonna at some injector cleaner, any ideas on what it could be plz

 

have you been cranking it over quite a bit trying to start it? you could have flooded it really badly and henceforth contaminated the oil with a ton of gas, making it really thin and not able to form a proper seal in the combustion chamber

check your oil, if its really gassy smelling and thin then change it. crank it over a few times with the leading spark plugs pulled out, then clean+reinstall them (make sure if you sand or file them to clean all the particles off them very meticulously) and floor the gas pedal and it should start. if not, something else is the problem.

 

Cranks but will not start might be: crank angle sensor, or water thermo sensor. Especially if you are seeing wet plugs, it will more likely be the WTS, or really bad compression. Theoretically if the CAS is bad there will be no spark and the fuel pump will not run.

 

Thank you for the responds, i cleaned and sanded all the particles off, checked the fuel filter and its fine its not clogged up, then i added some fuel injection cleaner to the gas tank and so far its been starting up without pumping the gas pedal, but maybe its a temporary fix since it has the injector cleaner in it, if it does the same thing i will check the crank angle sensor, the spark plugs were not soaked in anything they were fine,

Thanks for the help

 

injector cleaner is pretty much just a snake oil lol. most likely cleaning up the plugs is what fixed the problem.
i have to ask again....were you cranking it over a lot without it actually starting? flooding is a pretty common issue with rotaries and is self-perpetuating once it happens. there are certain procedures to prevent/recover from it.

 

didn't start again, well like i said before it was just a temp fix cuz it didn't start this morning again, im gonna borrow a OBD to check if anythings wrong,

Cordt-yes i was cranking it alot with out starting, but it would start and be fine but then again it will not start, if its flooded what should i do to recover from it

 

Next time you experience flooding in your S5 NA car, hold the gas peddle to the floor and crank it for 10 sec., stop for 5 sec., then crank for 10 sec., stop for 5 sec., etc. It usually take 4-5 cranks and it will start up.

Did you get a bunch of smoke after you got it fired it? You will if it's flooded.

 

you should remove the plugs, clean them and blow them dry, make sure they are in decent condition, turn off the fuel somehow (pull the EGI fuse thats usually what people do) and crank it over with the pedal to the floor, and at least one plug on each rotor still removed, put some rags in there or something to catch the **** that flies out

then squirt 5ml of oil (just use whatever you normally put in the engine) into each rotor, reinstall the plugs and whatever you did to disable the fuel supply, then crank it over with the pedal to the floor and it should start

after all this you should probably change your oil too, like i said it is most likely full of gas by now

 

oh yeah also i forgot to mention, when trying to start it always crank it for at least 10 seconds. any less and you risk flooding it again/even worse

 

Thanks Cordt but that didn't fix the hard start :/

Im guessing its my alternator not charging, since the regulator on a series five has power on it all the time from the EGI fuse in the engine bay and that fuse feeds one of the two wires on the small connector on the alternator.

so im guessing the Voltage regulator isn't working like it used to bc i notice that when i was driving the warning light lit up for a while as i was driving but then went away and the battery volt meter went up again, so it works when it want to

Has anyone ever replaced the Voltage regulator in a S5 Alternator

 

why dont you film the starting process and post it on youtube or something? you make it sound like the starter clicks which leads to bad ground or bad battery (go to autozone and have a IN CAR battery test done).

if it turns over but not fires, then thats a different story.

 

Probably knocked the plug off the water thermo sensor when messing with the alternator.

Alternators don't effect the starting process unless they've run the battery down prior to trying to start the engine.

Water thermo sensors being disconnected effect COLD starting but not HOT starting....because the default signal for a disconnected water thermo sensor is 176*F.

Replacing the regulator inside the alternator requires some soldering to be done. It's sort of shown in the Engine Electrical section of the FSM. Regulators can be bought off EBAY. Generally in the 25-35 buck range.

I've found that instead of desoldering the old regulator it is/was easier to take a dremel motor and cut the legs off the old regulator, then desolder what's left of the old regulator. In other words it was taking way too long to heat up the old solder with the soldering iron I have.

Series four in a series five.......you'd want to run a switched source of power to the W/L wires place on the alternator and tie back the W/L to the harness for use another day in time.

I'm pretty sure the regulator can be had from Autozone but cost about twice as much as the one on EBAY. You'd NEED to specify if turbo or non turbo alternator 'cause the two items won't work in the other alternator. Won't fit.

 

Look at the jpgs attached. One reg is for turbo and one for non turbo alternators. You either know what you have or can open the alternator and look to see which of the two shown you need.

Good news is the pulley/nut on the alt do not have to be removed. You just unscrew the three/four long bolts that hold the main alt parts together then using a couple of screwdrivers pry the alt apart to expose the regulator. See the FSM engine electrical section.

Regulator is held in with two ??three screws PLUS being soldered in at the two attach points shown in the two jpgs.

The regulator kit you get has a piece of wirre to hold the brushes back as you install the rotor into the space where the brushes are.

First jpg is TURBO regulator. Second picutre is non turbo regulator.

 

Thanks guys, i will have the alternator and battery tested, and most likely gonna replace the regulator, and check all my main grounds

 

My car finally starts with a simple turn of the key, well i checked all my grounds and the main ground was dirty with grease so cleaned that and cleaned other 2 grounds and it turns fine now, had the alternator checked and its good nothing wrong with it, it makes no sense why it sometimes wouldn't charge or loose charge while just sitting, now it goes up 14volts not 12volts so more juice thats good right lol, gonna check with a voltmeter and all the fuses to make sure, thanks for the info