nataku

I have a couple questions

!) I recently got my engine rebuilt and it floods a lot if I start the engine while it's still warm. But while I'm cranking, as soon as I tap the gas, it'll start up every time. It's not really too big of a problem, but I was just curious if anyone knows what causes this?

2) it's hard to shift in my car sometimes, moreso after the rebuilt, although I don't think that affected it. Sometimes it won't go into reverse, even putting it into 5th then reverse, or 1st then reverse it won't go in, i have to fiddle around with it putting it into many different gears before it drops into reverse. Also, if I am rolling forward, it will not go into reverse without it grinding. Is this a sign of the synchro's wearing out? I read something on a thread a while ago about changing the gear oil, would that help? I also find that the shifter boot area gets really hot when i'm driving, is that because of bad lubrication maybe? Cause it doesn't seem normal.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Rebuilds flood during breakin, they are low compression and build up as you drive them. The problem should gradually go away with mileage/time. UNless you have another issue, such as leaky injectors.

As for shifting, you shouldn't be trying to go into reverse while rolling forward anyway. A sticky pilot bearing will cause shifting problems, usually worse than this though. Sounds like your trans may be getting weak...try some redline in the box, or even some GM syncromesh fluid (I've heard that works well).

nataku

I've driven it for about 1500km if not more so far and it doens't really shown any signs of the flooding going away, like it doesn't do it any less than before. Or will it take longer than that? I've read your rebuild break-in procedures, and it seems like it should be gone by now. The fuel injectors were cleaned when the engine was out, a mechanic should be able to see if the injectors are leaky when the when it's out right?



as for the gear oil. Do I need to drain anything? or just add on top, and it's poured straight into the rubber surrounding underneath the boot, correct?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Depends on the seals used, and the quality of the rotorhousings. IF you use all new parts in perfect condition, then you have very little breakin or flooding. If you use worn out parts, you'll have a very long breakin. Give it another 1500 before you worry. Doesnt sound like much of an issue, anyway.

IF your mechanic has the equipemnt to flow and clean injectors. You can't look at one and tell much about it, you have to have flow equipment.

Obviously, yes. Drain all the old stuff out. BE sure the FILL bolt will loosen BEFORE you drain the fluid...if a fill bolt will not come out, then you would have no way to refill it after draining.

Dude, I'm not sure you should be working on this car alone. You're trying to hit reverse while moving forward, trying to overfill a trans full of fluid already, and trying to fill the transmission case through the shifter.

No, the shifter and the transmission case are not connected in such a way that they exchange fluid. They are seperate. Adding fluid to the shifter hole will only cause it to overflow there, it stays in the shifter. You have to fill the transmission from underneath...there is a fill bolt on the drivers side of the trans case, and a drain bolt on the bottom. Loosen the fill bolt to be sure it comes out, drain the old fluid, replace the drain plug, refill with new fluid via the fill hole, replace that plug. BE sure the car is on level ground when refilling.

nataku

I'm not intentionally trying to hit reverse when I'm moving forward. I meant, say if I was making a 3 point turn and I'd clutch in while I was slightly moving forward and start shifting, i'm not releasing the clutch until I'm stopped anyways, technically, that shouldn't damage anything, right? I didn't mean I was mashing the shifter into reverse while i'm going 30 or something like that.

I don't know if we're talking about the same type of fluid, or maybe i'm wrong, but I'm not talking about changing the transmission fluid. I read somewhere (I'm pretty sure it was in the Haynes Manual, or here maybe) about some sort of gear oil to lubricate the parts at the base of the shifter. That's what I was wondering about.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Teh fluid in the shift tower is just there for light lubrication...there is no real friction that occurs up there, it is just there to prevent sticking. IN other words, changing the fluid in your shift tower to some better performance brand will have no affect on shifting ability. The fluid IN the trans is what affects this, as the synchros are inside there.

Falcoms

I would listen to kevin on this one, He has a good idea of what is going on here, and not to sound rude or anything, but I think that you are looking at the small picture of what happens in a manual transmission. The difficulty shifting lies in the transmission itself, not the shifter. The shifter just moves a shift linkage that connects it to the shift forks, so no real friction there, being that it is just a straight bar to the trans. Then the shift forks slide the synchro hubs into the synchro rings, which in turn move against the cone on the corresponding gear you are shifting into. The synchro's job is to slow down or speed up the gear you are shifting into to match its speed to the speed of the output shaft (rear wheels). The synchro only works properly if there is fluid in the case to have it push against the cone on the gear you are shifting into, otherwise, said gear will not have a chance to match the rpm's of the rear wheels, resulting in either grinding into gear or difficulty shifting.

Overall, I would switch to a high quality gear lube, such as red line or royal purple, and that should take care of your problems.

nataku

ok, that makes sense, thanks for the help guys

projekt

I have a problem with my tranny. when shifting into the 1/2 gate the gear lever sticks. when shifting into all the other gates, it's completely normal. This happened thursday while driving on the highway. even if i push the lever over to neutral in the 1/2 gate it's sticky trying to move it back. I'm pretty sure i have a leak in my lever area to begin with and i unintentionally let all its (extremely dirty) fluid out yesterday trying to fix the leak.
so:
1. What could be causing my sticky 1/2 gate?
2. Can i fill the shifter part up from the shift ****?