Haltech and FC OEM tach
07-31-15, 02:06 AM
#1
Haltech and FC OEM tach
I am using IGN -1A coils with a P1000 in a S4. I know that the recommended wiring to DPO1 (12V) is straight forward however I am looking for other tach signal options since DPO1 and all other 12V DPOs will be utilized by other functions. Will the 5V, or 8V DPOs not give a reliable signal? Has anyone confirmed this? Can I get a tach signal but splicing the Y/L to IGN1 signal wire? If anyone has any ideas it would be great or I will be ditching my turbo timer relay.
07-31-15, 06:27 AM
#2
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God..I forget which wire I had hooked up and it was the same setup you are intending to run.
PM: C Ludwig ,vendor of Haltech stuff on Forum.I am sure he would be happy to help you.
PM: C Ludwig ,vendor of Haltech stuff on Forum.I am sure he would be happy to help you.
Last edited by misterstyx69; 08-01-15 at 06:58 AM.
08-01-15, 06:08 AM
#4
DPO1 is the only output with an internal pull-up resistor. And that is needed to run the tach. This is why you always allocate DPO1 to run the tach. It save hassle down the road. Other DPO can be used to run the tach, but you'll need to add an external pull-up resistor. Use a 1K ohm resistor to pull-up to 12V. But, why go to the trouble of adding a pull-up resistor when you can just use the proper output?
There are not 5V and 8V outputs. You're confused somehow. All DPO on the Sport and Sprint switch to ground. DPO1 allows a pull-up to 5V, 8V, or 12V.
As far as using an alternate signal, such as an ignition signal, to run the tach. That would require some external circuitry that I have no idea how to build. My guess is it would be much simpler to look at how you have the rest of the DPO configured and figure out how to free one of the those up to move the tach signal to DPO1. Using a separate Hobbs switch for example as a MAP switch instead of using an ECU output. Post your map and what all you're trying to do and we'll see if we can help.
There are not 5V and 8V outputs. You're confused somehow. All DPO on the Sport and Sprint switch to ground. DPO1 allows a pull-up to 5V, 8V, or 12V.
As far as using an alternate signal, such as an ignition signal, to run the tach. That would require some external circuitry that I have no idea how to build. My guess is it would be much simpler to look at how you have the rest of the DPO configured and figure out how to free one of the those up to move the tach signal to DPO1. Using a separate Hobbs switch for example as a MAP switch instead of using an ECU output. Post your map and what all you're trying to do and we'll see if we can help.
08-01-15, 04:01 PM
#5
Thanks for the info guys.
I will be using DPO1 to run the tach to avoid complications.
I know that the DPOs switch to ground but the idea came from referencing the ECU pinout from Haltech where it says DPO2 has a 5V pull up and DPO4 has a 8V pull up. Doesn't this mean that the maximum voltage the DPO can ground is the value of the DPO pull up voltage? Correct me if I am wrong. If this is not the case then I can use DPO2 or DPO 3 for my turbo timer output or any other relay activation and all of my problems with DPO allocations will have be solved. Please advise.
I will post my base map shortly but it needs some work. 
I will be using DPO1 to run the tach to avoid complications.
08-01-15, 04:31 PM
#6
Here is the base map.
Trigger and Ignition settings need some attention. I am using IGN-1A with an FC CAS (I know this sucks but its what I am working with for now.) I am unsure how these should be set up. I will continue to work on it so I can start the car and then hand it off to the tuner.
Fueling will be E85 through four Bosch 1700cc injectors fed by a Walbro F90000267 and a Walbro 255HP will be staged in for added fuel flow.
Will I be able to limit boost to zero using closed loop boost control? Turbo is a BWs366 with dual 38mm tial WGs.
Is it possible to pull signal off a signal wire autometer sport comp pressure sender into the P1000?
If more setup info is needed I will provide.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Trigger and Ignition settings need some attention. I am using IGN-1A with an FC CAS (I know this sucks but its what I am working with for now.) I am unsure how these should be set up. I will continue to work on it so I can start the car and then hand it off to the tuner.
Fueling will be E85 through four Bosch 1700cc injectors fed by a Walbro F90000267 and a Walbro 255HP will be staged in for added fuel flow.
Will I be able to limit boost to zero using closed loop boost control? Turbo is a BWs366 with dual 38mm tial WGs.
Is it possible to pull signal off a signal wire autometer sport comp pressure sender into the P1000?
If more setup info is needed I will provide.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
08-03-15, 03:44 AM
#7
The pull-ups are hard wired to those outputs. DPO 3 should be able to run the tach, since it has a fixed 12V pull-up. I never remember that though and always set my stuff up to run off DPO 1. I've never tried to use DPO 3, but it should work for a tach out. In the end, you have to use one of the channels and it's just easier to tell everyone to always use DPO 1.
The pull-ups have nothing to do with the voltage the channel can sink. They're all 12V capable. DPO 1 - 4 all have fixed or variable pull-ups. The rest of the DPO have none. The channels without a pull-up will simply float when not pulled to ground at around 2.5V. The pull-up pulls the voltage of the output up to the given voltage when the channel is in the off state and not closed to ground. So, in the case of the tach signal, you get a square wave that goes 12V - ground - 12V - ground - etc.
The FC CAS trigger settings are generally tooth offset of 11 and trigger angle around 65. But the final numbers don't really matter as long as when you lock the timing and shoot it with a timing light to synch it, the timing is correct. You could literally drop the CAS in any way you want and find a offset and angle value that works. What matters is that the timing synchs when checked with a light. Tooth offset is a simply a coarse adjustment value (30* of timing per unit) and trigger angle a fine adjustment.
You can't limit boost to less than wastegate spring pressure.
Yes, you can pull the signal from the Autometer sender but it's tricky. You'll need a 1k ohm pull-up resistor to 5V on the AVI you wish to use and then you'll need to know the calibration for that sensor. The pull-up to 5V will ruin the signal to the Autometer gauge, so you'll also need a diode between the pull-up and the gauge on the signal wire. What gauge is it? May be a lot simpler just to add a separate sensor.
You need to change the staging load value to 5.0 on the main fuel setup page. Ignition setup is fine for IGN coils.
The pull-ups have nothing to do with the voltage the channel can sink. They're all 12V capable. DPO 1 - 4 all have fixed or variable pull-ups. The rest of the DPO have none. The channels without a pull-up will simply float when not pulled to ground at around 2.5V. The pull-up pulls the voltage of the output up to the given voltage when the channel is in the off state and not closed to ground. So, in the case of the tach signal, you get a square wave that goes 12V - ground - 12V - ground - etc.
The FC CAS trigger settings are generally tooth offset of 11 and trigger angle around 65. But the final numbers don't really matter as long as when you lock the timing and shoot it with a timing light to synch it, the timing is correct. You could literally drop the CAS in any way you want and find a offset and angle value that works. What matters is that the timing synchs when checked with a light. Tooth offset is a simply a coarse adjustment value (30* of timing per unit) and trigger angle a fine adjustment.
You can't limit boost to less than wastegate spring pressure.
Yes, you can pull the signal from the Autometer sender but it's tricky. You'll need a 1k ohm pull-up resistor to 5V on the AVI you wish to use and then you'll need to know the calibration for that sensor. The pull-up to 5V will ruin the signal to the Autometer gauge, so you'll also need a diode between the pull-up and the gauge on the signal wire. What gauge is it? May be a lot simpler just to add a separate sensor.
You need to change the staging load value to 5.0 on the main fuel setup page. Ignition setup is fine for IGN coils.
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08-03-15, 03:19 PM
#8
The pull-ups are hard wired to those outputs. DPO 3 should be able to run the tach, since it has a fixed 12V pull-up. I never remember that though and always set my stuff up to run off DPO 1. I've never tried to use DPO 3, but it should work for a tach out. In the end, you have to use one of the channels and it's just easier to tell everyone to always use DPO 1.
The pull-ups have nothing to do with the voltage the channel can sink. They're all 12V capable. DPO 1 - 4 all have fixed or variable pull-ups. The rest of the DPO have none. The channels without a pull-up will simply float when not pulled to ground at around 2.5V. The pull-up pulls the voltage of the output up to the given voltage when the channel is in the off state and not closed to ground. So, in the case of the tach signal, you get a square wave that goes 12V - ground - 12V - ground - etc.
The FC CAS trigger settings are generally tooth offset of 11 and trigger angle around 65. But the final numbers don't really matter as long as when you lock the timing and shoot it with a timing light to synch it, the timing is correct. You could literally drop the CAS in any way you want and find a offset and angle value that works. What matters is that the timing synchs when checked with a light. Tooth offset is a simply a coarse adjustment value (30* of timing per unit) and trigger angle a fine adjustment.
You can't limit boost to less than wastegate spring pressure.
Yes, you can pull the signal from the Autometer sender but it's tricky. You'll need a 1k ohm pull-up resistor to 5V on the AVI you wish to use and then you'll need to know the calibration for that sensor. The pull-up to 5V will ruin the signal to the Autometer gauge, so you'll also need a diode between the pull-up and the gauge on the signal wire. What gauge is it? May be a lot simpler just to add a separate sensor.
You need to change the staging load value to 5.0 on the main fuel setup page. Ignition setup is fine for IGN coils.
The pull-ups have nothing to do with the voltage the channel can sink. They're all 12V capable. DPO 1 - 4 all have fixed or variable pull-ups. The rest of the DPO have none. The channels without a pull-up will simply float when not pulled to ground at around 2.5V. The pull-up pulls the voltage of the output up to the given voltage when the channel is in the off state and not closed to ground. So, in the case of the tach signal, you get a square wave that goes 12V - ground - 12V - ground - etc.
The FC CAS trigger settings are generally tooth offset of 11 and trigger angle around 65. But the final numbers don't really matter as long as when you lock the timing and shoot it with a timing light to synch it, the timing is correct. You could literally drop the CAS in any way you want and find a offset and angle value that works. What matters is that the timing synchs when checked with a light. Tooth offset is a simply a coarse adjustment value (30* of timing per unit) and trigger angle a fine adjustment.
You can't limit boost to less than wastegate spring pressure.
Yes, you can pull the signal from the Autometer sender but it's tricky. You'll need a 1k ohm pull-up resistor to 5V on the AVI you wish to use and then you'll need to know the calibration for that sensor. The pull-up to 5V will ruin the signal to the Autometer gauge, so you'll also need a diode between the pull-up and the gauge on the signal wire. What gauge is it? May be a lot simpler just to add a separate sensor.
You need to change the staging load value to 5.0 on the main fuel setup page. Ignition setup is fine for IGN coils.
The gauge I am using is a Autometer Sport Comp pressure gauge. I only need the pressure to enable so engine protection in the event oil pressure is lost. I will try to wire it up as you suggested and hopefully it works or I will just get another sensor.
Since the waste gate spring is the minimum pressure that will open the waste gate how are you guys breaking in these signal turbo builds? Are you just keeping the RPMs and load down to avoid building boost?
I need to do some more reading lol.
Last edited by nike_wankel; 08-03-15 at 03:27 PM.
08-04-15, 03:32 AM
#9
A pressure gauge should be able to have its signal split directly without the pull-up resistor. I read "single" wire where you wrote "signal". Yes, just splice into the signal wire of that pressure sensor with any of the AVI. No pull-up resistor needed as the sensor will output a 0-5v signal. Monitor voltage of that channel in the software and take a few samples to build your calibration. It's most likely either a 0-100 psi or 0-150 psi sensor with .5V = 0 psi and 4.5V = 100 or 150 psi. But you can look at voltage output versus what the gauge is saying and use that info to build a calibration for the input that is spot on what the gauge is reading.
Break-in? I don't do break-ins. We heat cycle a new motor a couple times and then sit it on the dyno.
Break-in? I don't do break-ins. We heat cycle a new motor a couple times and then sit it on the dyno.
08-04-15, 10:05 AM
#10
The sender is a single wire pressure sender but I am assuming it still producers a 0-5V signal?
I would just like to get the motor started and idling on my own. If I wait and save the money I will probably get it dyno tuned. How soon do you tune for maximum power when putting it on the dyno with out any break in on the road?
I would just like to get the motor started and idling on my own. If I wait and save the money I will probably get it dyno tuned. How soon do you tune for maximum power when putting it on the dyno with out any break in on the road?
Last edited by nike_wankel; 08-04-15 at 10:13 AM.