I had my street-ported, road race-ready, 13b FI engine (175WHP) running a Haltech E6X replaced with a street-ported, intake-honed, race-ready 13b single turbo producing a max of 13 PSI (317WHP), according to the boost gauge. The air aspirated engine ran fine with this E6X. Since I installed the dynoed and street-tuned engine/turbo, the engine blew three times on the track: once the rear housing cracked near the oil neck, next the front housing cracked near the oil return line, then a front rotor corner seal disintegrated to cause some scratch damage to the side housing. Numerous mechanics didn't know what caused the problems. Some thought it was the quality of the engine build. However, I think the most likely explanation given to me is that the ECU occasionally and chaotically interfered with the timing and allowed a spike in the boost. This opinion would explain why, on a couple of occasions, the oil pressure spiked and blew out the catch can's air vent, thus losing a lot of oil.

Can anyone confirm that the Haltech E6X has a problem with electrical interference, with say, the alternator, thus causing a timing problem/excessive boost? If so, I'd like to stay with a Haltech, say a 1000 Sport, since I can use the same sensors, and it has a data logging capability included in the basic unit cost. That is, unless there's a similar problem with Haltechs in general. I guess this ECU selection is the next area I'd like some feedback.

 

the E6x was pretty terrible, you're lucky it ran at all.

 

Are you sure the tune has nothing to do with it? An incorrect tune would explain all of that. Fuel delivery issues would be another cause. Personally, I would look through all the obvious things to check before thinking something like electrical interference, unless you decided to make some crazy electrical connections and twist all your wires around each other.

Who did the work on the motors and who did the tuning? Did they have much experience with rotary motors before hand? Do you have all the proper modifications that are required when swapping a naturally aspirated with a turbo? Better radiator, intercooler, and fuel pump?

The reason I ask, your writing suggests you've thrown quite a bit of money at this. Most people that just throw money at things, don't always put it in the right place.

Also, the series of engine that you have would be useful information for diagnosing issues.

 

the older haltechs and rotaries i wouldn't say were a good match due to the unique way that the rotary has 2 different ignition algorithms. this created a lot of issues for haltech apparently since in the beginning they didn't spend much time verifying that it actually worked as intended.

the newer haltechs seem to work, i haven't had any issues with the platinum sport or sprintRE, but the older ones i'd rather run a microtech than a haltech that had more customizability(i just made that word up).

 

if you casually take a survey of broken dowel pin lands in the irons, and ecu choice there is a trend...

 

Thanks all for the input. I had a well known rotary mechanic/former racer (don't need to mention names) build the engine and make everything compatible, including turbo, radiator, intercooler, T2 tranny, dyno tune, etc. The turbo engine stayed surprising cool on the track, rarely above 210F. Not that it makes a difference (or maybe it does in this generation-specific section), but all of this 2nd gen powerplant/drivetrain is in a 1st gen--1982 GSL, one owner--me.

I had to refine the dyno tunes while driving on the street, mainly because it was still too rich. I was never happy with the final tuning. However, we kept the A/F around 10-12. I did see the AF briefly hit 13 on the racetrack. Maybe my AEM A/F meters isn't fast enough to sense a higher, very brief lean spike or boost; or maybe I never noticed such a spike. I really need to look out the windshield most of the time on the racetrack. I can't use the E6X's data monitoring because a computer is needed to record. We noticed no spike in the boost during any of the many dyno runs or "spirited" street tunes on country roads.

Had another rotary mechanic who specializes only in building rotary race engines look at the parts list and saw everything looked compatible and made sense. This second mechanic is the one who mentioned a possible ECU problem. Racing Beat put me in contact with a rotary tuner in CA. This guy said E6Xs had electrical issues. He's the one who recommended the Haltech 1000--but, he sells Haltechs. I sent him my map file, and he said the A/F and timing wasn't optimal. He didn't say there was a problem, just wasn't optimal. Maybe he wants me to buy a Haltech from him so he can sell me some "optimal' tuning. So, I am not yet sure if I trust him; although Racing Beat did recommend him.

All I know at this point is that I will not use the E6X when the engine gets put back in the car, and I'll ask the engine builder who specializes in race engines to look at the maps.

 

Are you using a wide band AFM?

 

Yes. The O2 sensor is located just rear of where the turbo downpipe attaches to the exhaust.

 

Even though I could have gotten a Haltech E6K or something of that nature for a cheap price,I decided to go with a PS1000 as it was more updated.
Seeing that numerous threads I browsed all had mentioned the shielding issue on the CAS I opted to get an ECU that used a Trigger system (FFE),putting the "cas" now to the front of the engine.

I think your problem was just that..a bad signal to the ECU from the CAS.

But then again,I don't know Donuts about ECU's..I just buy them and have guys tune them..lol!

 

the air gap in the CAS sensors does not help much either, i generally close that gap first on cars with aftermarket ECUs to try and sharpen the signal strength.

 

/\ have you ever looked at a pickup signal on an o'scope? i agree with you, just curious.


i think the reason for most pickup problems is the voltage thresholds are just set too low. its a compromise between threshold set too low and pickup up noise or set too high and unable to start the engine.. since this voltage increase with RPM. at idle ive measured a 8Vpp swing, yet most haltech maps have it set to fractions of a volt

op, can you post your haltech map?


edit.. also i found out on the older ecus the trigger "filter" setting is actually setting threshold voltage. so you basically want the "filter" setting as high as possible and still be able start the car

 

no, i have just noticed that it helps with the signal during cranking which is also where most of the electrical 'noise' in the car is occuring.