While I was down in Santa Barbara this weekend for a scholarship audition, I got a scary call from Chris Green, who was doing the final tuning for my Wolf 3D V4 EMS. After he let off from the run, he heard a *pop* sound, and then saw some flames coming from the under the hood. Luckily, the hood was open, and he ran out with a fire extinguisher and put out the fire as quickly as he could. Not too much damage done, just a little bit of the wiring harness was singed, and no other real damage to the engine (didn't overheat, flames didn't get near the supercharger or do any actual damage).

So by now you could have guessed that my pulsation dampener failed, and thankfully it failed while the car was on the dyno and not on the road. I'll be working with the guys at MSD to provide an optimum fuel solution, perhaps with threaded fittings and stainless lines (the clamps provided with the supercharger kit are completely inadequate). So just be patient, guys, I'll have the full results from the dyno sometime next week...

 

well, i guess that is good and bad... bad that it happened, but damn good that you didnt find out about it while driving it.

 

show me pics of oyur supercharger setup, and numbers too

 

He's already posted both numerous times. Damn snub, you got some shitty luck! Hope you get that thing back together and working right soon, i'll be getting my SC GTUs on the road before that things done!

 

So I assume this means you got the overheating/fan thermostat issues worked out?

I'm planning on doing the parallel fuel mod actually, seems like it'd be a good setup.

 

Yeah, I got rid of those issues. The fan thermostat was just going crazy, so I removed all that cheap junk that came with the kit and had the fan wired to the ECU. As far as I know the car runs fine.

Chris said that as he ran out of the car to grab a fire extinguisher, he took a quick glance at the computer screen, said he saw some insane number like 270. I doubt that's what it really made, but we'll see this week.

 

Good to hear, once you get the final numbers I'd love to see the dyno with a list of full mods

 

cool, i wouldn't want you to miss the meet this weekend, i want to see your setup.

 

I'm getting around to fixing this in the next few days. Could I replace the FPD with a fuel pressure regulator? I think HKS sells a regulator with an adaptor for about $200, but would that work in the place of a fuel pulsation damper?

 

Get a fuel pressure regulator that has a built in PD, otherwise it'd just be like replacing the PD with a banjo bolt.

 

Okay, that makes sense.

Good news is that when Chris was rushing out of the car, he noted that he saw 270-280hp at about 12psi on the readout of the run, but the run got erased somehow. Hopefully he wasn't seeing things.

 

Do you have any kind of cooling for that much boost?

 

Unfortunately no, not at this time. I wasn't the one doing the tuning so I guess Chris just retarded the timing a lot.

Took off the manifold and took a look at the damage, and although it was pretty bad, it could have been worse (i.e. the entire car flamed up). All the wires on top of the engine got cooked, and my OMP lines got melted, along with a few sensors, and also my fuel lines were toast.

I'm going to probably miss this weekend's meet, because I'm going to have to replace the harness, replace the OMP lines, and also convert to SS lines and AN fittings.

 

why not just remove the OMP and lines and just premix? i hate the OMP and it's results.

and come on, if i can rebuild my engine before the event, surely you can get this fixed...

 

You should do water injection for some simple cooling, easier than an setting up an intercooler.

Then after the water injection retune the car with some aggressive timing advance, it's alllllll about the timing

Hey not that your MOP lines are melted just remove it and premix and then you can do the parallel fuel lines and you'll be set.

 

I might do the premix thing, but I've got questions about it. Like, when you're at idle and you're only injecting a small amount of fuel into the engine, are you getting proper lubrication? And what do I have to do to remove the OMP, just take it off and put on a blockoff plate? And would just any two-cycle premix do?

On top of that, I have to wait for Henry to get some time off so he can do the SS lines and fittings for me. I don't have the time or a car lift to do that sort of work. On top of that I still have to replace the harness and get the tuning finished. I'll try my best to be ready by saturday, but that just might not be possible.

 

Yes it'll be enough at idle. The way you premix is you run a safe ratio of oil to gas, so no matter what when its spraying fuel the ratio will be the same, either at idle or redline. Now the amount is smaller, yes, but the MOP does the same thing, at idle it injects less than higher rpms.

Are you doing SS lines from the gas tank forward or just in the engine bay?

 

Gas tank forward. I might as well throw down the money for it, just in case I do something crazy like a 20B swap or something.

 

Fair enough

 

I don't mean to sound like an ***, but that'd probably be your sanest expensive mod yet!

 

when you switch to premix you basically convert your car to a 2 stroke, it will lubricate better than the OMP ever could. i ragged on my engine and it looked extremely clean inside when i tore it apart after 4k miles. the carbon wiped off of the rotors with one light wipe of a rag and the rotor housings looked in the exact same condition as they were when i built the engine.