dr0x

87 turbo ii, the ecu is throwing a code for the air intake temp sensor. Chris (from cp racing) and I are both stumped on why this stupid thing will not run. Im not sure if a faulty AIT will cause the car not to run, Im going to have a look at it later. But as far as everything goes, the car has fuel (it keeps flooding from trying to start it), compression, strong battery, timing is set close to stock (will set it properly with a timing light when it runs). Anyways, all emissions are removed from the car and properly blocked off (1/8in aluminum). I tried replacing the ecu.

When Im cranking the car it sounds like it wants to go but then just dies back down. If anyone has something theyd like to share...

Cory Simpson

Well this is just off the wall but could it be a faulty AFM???

dr0x

The car ran before the old motor was taken out. Although that doesnt mean squat...

marcus219

I ran my car w/out a IAT for awhile b/c of the connector on the harness being cut...its a n/a but it should be the same for you, as far as making the car not run.

dr0x

bump.

I tried a little starter fluid, made a few pops but still a no go. Going to try new plugs tomorrow.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I would RE-STAB the CAS, and make ABSOLUTEY sure the AFM is good to go.

Jarrett

Rotorific

iTrader: (1)

I would unplug the fuel pump just to make sure it is not seriously flooded and see if it starts then i would asess the AFM and see if it is faulty.

dr0x

Ive restabbed that damn thing like 15 times today

Is there a test procedure for the AFM? I was looking in the FSM and I did not see one.

Rotor: I have a fuel cut switch Ive been toggling off and on.

dr0x

Alrighty, tested the AFM via the method provided in the FSM. Its perfectly good

NZConvertible

The one in the AFM (code 03) or the one in the intake elbow (code 15)? Either way, the code shouldn't stop the engine from running. In both cases the ECU just defaults to a 68degF reading.

How about spark?

dr0x

After I tested the AFM I supported it with a screw driver and some thick wire to hold it level. When I cranked the car (fuel pump off) there was a thick cloud of smoke coming from the downpipe. It was still burning off fuel when I came inside for the night. Ill have another wack at it tomorrow. But its trying a hell of a lot harder to start, still flooded heavily. Atleast Im making some progress.

4 short blinks.
http://home.rmci.net/panther/86_88ecu.htm

NZConvertible

Oops, I meant 04 not 03.

Pull the plugs, clean them up and squirt a little ATF in there to get some compression. If you have fuel and spark that should fire it up.

MiyaKokujin

Sounds as if your engine is no good. Thick cloud of smoke?? Youve got a bad seal somewhere in the housings. Time for an overhaul, or a rebuilt engine.

turbo-rotary

Or is flooded...

seveninphilly

iTrader: (7)

I would go with the push/pull start method and drop the clutch at like 3K that gets even the most flooded/I just don't want to start cars going.

dr0x

Black smoke is from excessive fuel.

dr0x

I got the car to run for about 4 seconds

88IntegraLS

primary / secondary injector wires mixed up? And what is your compression reading? I am assuming that the exhaust is not plugged so hmmmm. I am sure you have also tried moving the timing around before trying to start it and seeing if that makes a difference. All I could think of at this point is something wrong with the EGI.

dr0x

I got it started, it was idling for a good hour until I stepped out to go get a timing light. My parents said it died, but the key was turned off so I have a feeling they just got sick of listening to it lol.

And compression was 55psi front 60 rear.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

WHAT FIXED IT??

dr0x

Your ecu.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

AWWW SHIZZLE!!! Thats good to hear!

88IntegraLS

At least it is a new engine. 55 / 60 psi is a little limp. My worn out NA had 90 and its housing looked like this:



The replacement (used but cheap) housing is shown behind the worn one that pulsed 3x90.