Is there a guide anywhere online with pictures? i dont know where they all are and need some pics to show me what to look at.

my car runs like crap most of the time. sometimes it runs good while its cold, but once it warms up it looses a ton of power and somtimes cuts off when i stop. i know it is not the tps because i just unplugged it and drove around and it did the same thing.

any other possibilities?

 

If all you're doing is replacing vacuum lines, just get the lengths and sizes of silicone hose that Mazdatrix suggests, and start replacing them one at a time. The only thing to keep in mind is the boost sensor vacuum line has a pill in it that you need to transfer into your new one.

 

alright, i will check that out. sorry i forgot to mention its a 87 na. i saw some people with na's only had 2 vacum lines and blocked the others off. i would like to do that but it seems out of my league.

do i need to take the engine apart at all to get to the lines or is it a pretty easy fix?

thanks.

 

alright, i went around the engine bay with a can of ether, but i couldn't find any leaks. but i still think it is the vaccum lines. there are just so many and i cant see where they all go. i dont know if i am going to be able to change them all on my own.

 

i say just pull out the emmisions which is almost all the vac lines and get some block off plates also, you engine bay will look cleaner and i think runs better without the avc and all the stuff idk im doing it to my car and have seem almost every fc with the done to it

 

My avatar shows my engine sprouting new vacuum lines when I had to pass CA smog. It's very possible to get these cars to run perfectly with all emissions on there, and they let me pass CA smog with flying colors. That said, I no longer have to smog, and when I did the S5 UIM swap, I ended up with very few vacuum lines. Blocking things off also means at least removing your upper intake manifold and getting rid of your catalytic converters, so you'll have to be comfortable with having a stinky car and removing sections of the engine (you mentioned you weren't sure if you'd like to do anything too involved).

 

emissions went out the window with my exhaust anyways so i dont have to worry about that.

thanks for the link. is there anywhere i can get the block off kit with instructions?

 

Yup, racing beat sells the plates for EGR and ACV under "Intake Components." Then, with a bit of gasket maker, you bolt the plates where the valves used to be. Here's what they look like: Emissions Systems Overview

For the EGR you'll have to take he UIM off, so get a gasket (13-112A-N326) ordered. It will be an oportune time to do the TB mod, remove the thermo wax, and get rid of the "rat's nest", bringing you down to the minimum vacuum lines: boost sensor (with pill), FPR, oil injector air bleeds, and fuel injector air bleeds. For those instructions, see the link above.

 

alright, thanks alot for your help. i am really going to look into doing this since it needs to be done.

is a tb mod when i switch it with an fd's. i see people doing that. and also do i have a boost sensor since it is a NA?

 

The boost sensor is the black rectangular thing attached to front of the the passenger-side suspension tower. On our n/as, it detects manifold vacuum. RETed has a good TB mod writeup here. It's for a TII, but you can pretty much follow it step-by-step. As he says, it can cause slight acceleration hesitations when you stomp on the gas pedal, because it removes the double throttle system. In the process, it frees some air flow and removes vacuum hoses and check valves.