Alright What i know and did is:

I know the car ran back is septemberish 09 car sat outside during winter and now is back at the shop tried to start it with new battery and old gaz from last summer the car did not go for it, i put a 4 gallon of premium to mix the blend car semmed to go better but did not start still.

I added another 4G of premium the (tank is at half almost)
I had repalced the water thermo sensor with a usable one has proven since the car started last fall
there was a rip in my o2 sensor (i jerryrigged it) and the car was started last fall

Injectors were not touched, CAS were not touched, tried 2 different
N333 ecu,tried with and whitout Mazdatrix FCD,tried to rich the mixture on stock sensor(not much improvement but seemed to have less detonation, removed the plugs and cleaned/replaced (all full of fuel and carbon), removed the IGN master fuse cranked it pedal off for about10 sec did ths 3x) replaced fuse try it again same thing, ground at back of firewall/mani is ok, my pump is a brand new walbro les than 5 minutes on it, alternator no belt but started fine last time,plugs are new

Another thing is that it dont seems to go past 1.5-1.7 before it shuts down

so check list goes like that:

plugs :ok
battery :ok
fuel pump: ok
main fuses :ok
back firewall ground: ok
ecu: ok
coolant: ok
oil most likely :ok
fuel pressure sensor:not likely
thermo sensor:not likely
injector:not likely
Cas:not likely
Flooded:possible
bad gaz: not likely
o2 sensor:possible

why wont it stays idle or rev past 1.5-1.7k RPM
my reasoning is i got fuel/spark since it turns over and detonate or bakfires (i know its bad) and speedo turn itself even before the engine does??? WTF about that
no its not the seats,the hood or the brakes


plz help me fix my car, taxi are expensive and i kill poeple in buses

 

gonna jump out on a ledge and say you didn't actually test it did ya.

 

jumper the yellow two prong fuel pump diagnostic connector on the passenger strut tower. fuel pump should run continuously with the ignition switch on

 

well i was more leaning towards a fuel pressure issue from a cut o-ring but yea, many small vacuum leaks will cause the issue too when the AFM flapper closes enough to turn the fuel pump back off.

 

well the thing is that it did idle last year with the new pump but i will verify this again
tks for your posts

 

bump i need more suggestions

 

did you try jumpering the connector? spray around the manifolds and TID with carb cleaner to see if there's any leaks? check fuel pressure and pump voltage going in?

 

Ok here's an update i found what was keeping the motor from idling it was my jerry rigged intake tubing was disconected past the afm

NOW it just will idle (not a steady) at like 2200 rpm and will come back down and rev back up also a lot of backfire what's my problem now

Fuel pump is quiet but runs the idle and i reved it up to like 3-4 k as well so that's not the problem

on a different note where the **** does the twinscroll acuatar takes its vaccum too its unplugged and cant see where it goes

 

ok i got an steady idle at warmed-up temperature (around 2-2.2k) with the fcd on or off still i want my idle to settle down a round 750 i did check quickly the fast idle did not seems to be in bad shape
B.A.C seems to be ok
i fixed the twin-scroll acuator vaccum lines it was not an easy find
and another vaccum that i dunno where and why it is there
throttle body seems to be faine as well
anybody knows why it stumble around 2 k and won't go down

 

'cause the primary throttle plate is open too much. See FSM for allowed gap. Fuel and Emissions section of the FSM.

Or the large air leak that is??? Got us, we can't see and hear it from this side of the screen and a video won't help.