GTU 1988 Power steering problem, also crash damage questions
01-17-02, 01:31 AM
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
GTU 1988 Power steering problem, also crash damage questions
I'm new to the message board.
I have a 1988 GTU Coupe, 5-spd.
The steering would sometimes go heavy after driving for a few minutes, and stay heavy until the engine was shut down, (key turned to off), and restarted. Then, the steering returns to normal.
I checked the fuild level and it's ok. There's fluid near or around the yoke plug, but it appears to be engine oil, as the steering fluid is pink. There are what appear to be oil lines that run just above the steering rack on the drivers side.
Could the variable assist valve be the problem? (the power steering pump has a control valve and I think the GTU is equipped with variable assist)
I've also got a question concerning some body damage.
I recently got into a small crash which bent the driver side fender to the right about .25 inches, bent in the internal framework behind the reinforcement about .5 inches on the driver side (also pushing up the center of the core support via the hood lock support bracket), bending the passenger side fender outward by less than .25 inches, and bending the hood, making it crooked.
The hood doesn't line up on the driver side, probably due to the hinge being pushed by during the impact. The frame at the core support back is straight.
I've included a pic of the damage. Where the paint is chipped off on the hood was where it was bend inward in the crash, possibly pushing the hinge back on the driver side and bending it midway on the passenger side.
The car is perfectly driveable. It tracks straight. All lights are intact and working (though the driver side headlamp is jammed up by the bent fender and internal frame; I disconnected the motor to protect it). There are no major leaks and the engine runs fine.
I have a 1988 GTU Coupe, 5-spd.
The steering would sometimes go heavy after driving for a few minutes, and stay heavy until the engine was shut down, (key turned to off), and restarted. Then, the steering returns to normal.
I checked the fuild level and it's ok. There's fluid near or around the yoke plug, but it appears to be engine oil, as the steering fluid is pink. There are what appear to be oil lines that run just above the steering rack on the drivers side.
Could the variable assist valve be the problem? (the power steering pump has a control valve and I think the GTU is equipped with variable assist)
I've also got a question concerning some body damage.
I recently got into a small crash which bent the driver side fender to the right about .25 inches, bent in the internal framework behind the reinforcement about .5 inches on the driver side (also pushing up the center of the core support via the hood lock support bracket), bending the passenger side fender outward by less than .25 inches, and bending the hood, making it crooked.
The hood doesn't line up on the driver side, probably due to the hinge being pushed by during the impact. The frame at the core support back is straight.
I've included a pic of the damage. Where the paint is chipped off on the hood was where it was bend inward in the crash, possibly pushing the hinge back on the driver side and bending it midway on the passenger side.
The car is perfectly driveable. It tracks straight. All lights are intact and working (though the driver side headlamp is jammed up by the bent fender and internal frame; I disconnected the motor to protect it). There are no major leaks and the engine runs fine.
01-17-02, 07:36 AM
#2
Despise Enmity
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Richmond, VA
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Someone on the board, a recent post too, talked about straightening out some damage with a winch...
this was stolen from a different thread:
Got mine for $99.00!!!!!
It had been hit in the drivers side really bad.
PERFECT engine. 110 PSI oil pressure at 4 grand.
After about 5 hours of prying the door open, I finally got it off.
Got a new door for $20 and put it on. It wouldn't close because the frame was bent. So, I got a wench and tied one end of it to a street pole. I tied the other end to the bent frame where the door latches, and cranked down. I had to crank so hard the car was standing up on 2 wheels!!!!!! Finally I bent it back so the door will close just great.
I love my car. You can find great deals if you are willing to find it and fix it. Look for 7's that are in the paper that will not start. Chances are they are just flooded and are perfectly fine. You can get em for a steal!
Good luck,
Brandon
Another option, would be to find a good donor chassis, and swap the driveline, if you feel that the frame damage is too costly/time consuming to repair.
Later...
this was stolen from a different thread:
Got mine for $99.00!!!!!
It had been hit in the drivers side really bad.
PERFECT engine. 110 PSI oil pressure at 4 grand.
After about 5 hours of prying the door open, I finally got it off.
Got a new door for $20 and put it on. It wouldn't close because the frame was bent. So, I got a wench and tied one end of it to a street pole. I tied the other end to the bent frame where the door latches, and cranked down. I had to crank so hard the car was standing up on 2 wheels!!!!!! Finally I bent it back so the door will close just great.
I love my car. You can find great deals if you are willing to find it and fix it. Look for 7's that are in the paper that will not start. Chances are they are just flooded and are perfectly fine. You can get em for a steal!
Good luck,
Brandon
Another option, would be to find a good donor chassis, and swap the driveline, if you feel that the frame damage is too costly/time consuming to repair.
Later...
01-17-02, 06:55 PM
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Bellingham, WA
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"So, I got a wench and tied one end of it to a street pole. I tied the other end to the bent frame where the door latches, and cranked down. "
Wow! I've never seen a wench strong enough to lift a car.
Wow! I've never seen a wench strong enough to lift a car.
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