Ground Kit: which to get? (searched)
I am looking for a ground kit, but not sure of which one to get. I have heard of good things with the HKS Circle Earth kit, but I don't really know if there is anything out there that is just as good for less then $100 (being that I am a cheap SOB). I could re-ground everything, but I like the idea of mounting directly to the neg. battery post, cuts down on risk of dirty grounds on the frame. Well, that, and I am lazy and don't really have time to play around with crimping, soldering, and replacing wires. I do enough of that with HAM radio's that I play with. I am not looking for anything stylish or anything, but I am looking for gold plated (lack of corrosion to foul out connections, and conducts electricity better).
I guess that's it. Thanks
I guess that's it. Thanks
Just about any kit will work.
The only problem ground on the 2nd gen RX-7's is the cheesy clip on the wire from the firewall to the bell housing.
Beefing up that connection is a good idea.
The primary ground (battery to body to starter) can look good, but have corrosion under the insulation.
Just fix it if is bad.
To test your grounds with a cheap DVM:
Motor running.
Apply some electrical load, (headlights on, fan on high).
You should see 0 volts from battery (-) to the body, or to the alternator frame.
While your there, you should also see 0 volts from battery(+) to the alternator output post.
The only problem ground on the 2nd gen RX-7's is the cheesy clip on the wire from the firewall to the bell housing.
Beefing up that connection is a good idea.
The primary ground (battery to body to starter) can look good, but have corrosion under the insulation.
Just fix it if is bad.
To test your grounds with a cheap DVM:
Motor running.
Apply some electrical load, (headlights on, fan on high).
You should see 0 volts from battery (-) to the body, or to the alternator frame.
While your there, you should also see 0 volts from battery(+) to the alternator output post.
why waste your money on a kit... go down to your local auto stereo shop, and get 15 feet of 8 awg wire and 3 feet of 2 or 4 awg wire and make your own.
Take the 4 awg and run it from your battery neg to the drivers shock tower, and then run the 8 awg to the motor from the drivers shock tower and replace the wimpy factory grounds with anything left over.
If you really wanted to be ****, you copuld even run the awg to each coil and back to the shock tower, and to the mounting for the alt and back to the shock tower.
Probably less than $25 in parts to do it that way.
Take the 4 awg and run it from your battery neg to the drivers shock tower, and then run the 8 awg to the motor from the drivers shock tower and replace the wimpy factory grounds with anything left over.
If you really wanted to be ****, you copuld even run the awg to each coil and back to the shock tower, and to the mounting for the alt and back to the shock tower.
Probably less than $25 in parts to do it that way.
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Plus my stereo amps pull like 120amps, at 70% volume, so I need the capability of efficient transfer.
Anyways if you can create a better flowing electrical system, why not, you'r only gonna add maybe a couple pounds to the car weight.
Anyways if you can create a better flowing electrical system, why not, you'r only gonna add maybe a couple pounds to the car weight.
Originally Posted by gnome311
Plus my stereo amps pull like 120amps, at 70% volume, so I need the capability of efficient transfer.
Anyways if you can create a better flowing electrical system, why not, you'r only gonna add maybe a couple pounds to the car weight.
Anyways if you can create a better flowing electrical system, why not, you'r only gonna add maybe a couple pounds to the car weight.
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