SevenDreamz

Well guys I had some small issues that were concerning me. I have a 88 GXL w/ a S5 Jspec T2 Engine in it. The swap went really well and it drives great but for the 2nd time since I had it bck tonight after sitting for about 30 after I had drove it...when I went to start it....it was just turning over. It was just turning and it sounded just like it was goin to start but it wouldnt. Well I knew what the problem was right away. I pulled the EGI fuse and started 3 times and then put the EGI fuse bck in and it fired right up. But this is the 2nd time its done this in about 3 wks and I didnt want to have to do this every time I want to drive the car. What is causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

My mods are

S5 Jspec T2 Engine
All Emissions Removed
OMP Removed
SRP Manual Boost Controller(11-12psi)
K&N Air Filter
Cosmo 20B Fuel Pump
Fully Ported Wastegate
S-AFC
Knight Sports FCD
Full 3 1/8in Turbo Back Exhaust

Fitness Stain

put a fuel cut swich in it... that way you dont have to pop the hood everytime this happens ...

just place the switch somewhere good, and you'll not only have a nice security feature, but also an easy fix for hotstarts

SevenDreamz

I forgot to mention that I have a fuel cutoff switch in the car already that is already wired and everything. I know that the switch works because while you are driving if you turn the switch off then the car will quit running. So could someone please fully explain hotstarts or this flooding issue and what I should do with my switch to keep thisfrom happening. I mean when turning my car off should I flick the fuel switch then turn the car off...or turn the car off then flick the fuel switch. I checked for fuel leaks and I dont seem to have any under the hood...but any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Mike

Parastie

It sounds like your car is flooded, but it also be that you're running the lines out (since the fuel cut switch is suppose to kill the fuel pump) so when you start the car you'll have to pressurize the lines again.

I would still do a compression check if i was you.

Bigretardhead

use the fuel cut switch the same way in which you use the EGI fuse. if the car floods when you start it, flip the switch off, and when it starts, flip it back on.

rotaryracer1

iTrader: (1)

but why does this happen? my 88t2 does this hot start crap some one please give us a better answer than just using our cut off switches.

HAILERS

Buy new rotor housings and install them. Have the side housings lapped. Install new apex seals and springs along with the previous items.

HAILERS

Buy new rotor housings and install them. Have the side housings lapped. Install new apex seals and springs along with the previous items.

The last time I looked, when you rebuild a piston engine, you HONE the cylinders. I don't see anybody *honing* rotor housings. There's a obvious reason why.

SJ_chameleon

Seriously sounds like flooding. It has something to do with the way the engine is designed and is is a pretty common problem. i read somewhere that if you remove the spark plugs and let it drain it should help, but that is a lot of work. The easiest way is to just keep trying to start it, if it doesnt work after something like five trys then the spark plug thing was suggested but it seems that what you are doing is working. But it seriously isnt that big of a problem, pretty common with 7's.

By the way i want your car I am planning on doing almost the exact same swap, glad to hear that it wasnt too hard to do.

SJ_chameleon

oh yeah a way to prevent it is to let it run for a minute on idle before you turn off the car.

OneEyedJack

iTrader: (5)

Leaky injectors?

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

leaking injectors is probably one of the last things to check, its so rare to have totally bad leaky injectors.

i'm gonna go with low compression

SevenDreamz

Yeah I knew it was just a small flooding issue. But yeah when I pull the EGI fuse and then start and put it bck in if fires right up. I know there are no problems with the engine....it has 38,000 original miles on it and had GREAT compression. The car really moves and is extremely fast....0-100mph in NO TIME. But yeah I think letting it idle a little before I turn it off will help. But there is nothing wrong with the engine, engine compression or anything of that nature. And like I said it rarely does this....doesnt ever really do it at all. But I will let it idle before turning it off, and see how that works.

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

Get a turbo timer.....

Everyone with a turbo car needs one

SevenDreamz

I have heard they are just for "LAZY" Turbo owners who dont have time to sit there and lete there car idle for 3 or 4 min. I dont mind sitting and letting the car idle...I have no problem doing that at all. Plus I have heard bad things about them messing up and actually never turning cars off and such.....anyone had any bad experiences?

Parastie

This makes me laugh.
Honestly, a turbo timer is just a clock with a relay wired to the alarm. It's the simplest electronic device to create besides a calculator. The only way i can see even the cheapest one of these failing is if it was wired incorrectly.

r@TarY_p0wERed

glad to hear ur swap went well sevendreamz. ur my inspiration and hope i could perform the swap as successfully like u. i should post a new thread asking this...
but oh wellz.
u did this all by urself right? completley DIY?
how much time in estimate did it take?
was it a incredible challenge as some ppl assume it is?
lastly what tools played a major part in this swap? shopping for tools this christmas season and thought should get ur guys suggestions bfore spending my paycheck randomly on stupid stuff.

bcool

To prevent flooding in my car i just rev up to 3K and shut the key off.

BlaCkPlaGUE

gingenhagen

Flooding is mainly caused when you drive short distances on a cold engine. It's a pretty common occurence on FCs and what you're describing seems to be totally normal to me from my experiences.

And on the turbo timer...

Quote from NZConvertible:

Put it where I put mine. In a drawer in the garage. You don't need a turbo timer on cars with water-cooler turbos. The cores run far cooler than on old turbos so the problems they had with burning the oil in the bearings on shutdown (the reason turbo timers were invented) does not happen unless you turn the engine off straight after driving the car very hard. Driving the last mie or so without using lots of boost is all you need to do.