2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

got some problems with my build. help please!

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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 07:16 PM
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From: Bethesda Oh
OH got some problems with my build. help please!

hey guys. so i have a 87 rx7 gxl. was an na, but did a s4 turbo swap. after getting it finally all together i get it started, and the idle is about 3000 rpm, and driving it around the block the rpms shot up to 4000 rpm, it seemed as if i had a rev limiter in car. would not go past 4000 rpm at all.. ive done some research, but thought maybe i could post, and see what some of you guys have to say. its a s4 turbo engine, streetported, 3 inch exhaust downpipe back, all emissions deleted, still have bac ( dont think it is working though ), s5 turbo, and omp system deleted. ive read possibilities of being the timing, secondaries not have good connection, poor grounding. it is getting fuel. i do have the 10th anniversary ecu as well. any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 12:00 AM
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From: Bethesda Oh
Also I can't get the car to start with key. I had to bump start it to get it started. Seems that the timing may be off a hair?
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 09:43 AM
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Throttle cable too tight?

Massive vacuum leak somewhere?
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 10:01 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by mazdarx7turboll
Also I can't get the car to start with key. I had to bump start it to get it started. Seems that the timing may be off a hair?
check it. with the engine off, take the little plastic cover out of the CAS cover. put the engine on the leading mark. there should be a CAS tooth in the hole in the CAS cover. timing will be close enough this way.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 02:08 PM
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From: Bethesda Oh
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Throttle cable too tight?

Massive vacuum leak somewhere?

I haven't gotten to check the vacuum leaks or anything because as soon as I start the car and it shoots up to 3000 rpm. Throttle cable is perfect, adjusted that already.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 02:11 PM
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From: Bethesda Oh
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
check it. with the engine off, take the little plastic cover out of the CAS cover. put the engine on the leading mark. there should be a CAS tooth in the hole in the CAS cover. timing will be close enough this way.
Im going to give this a shot when I get a chance. Not having time just really sucks. So I've been trying to research and be as descriptive as possible.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 02:40 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
you are probably going to have to check a bunch of stuff. a 3000rpm idle, means that either the throttle isn't closed, or there is a big air leak somewhere.

its easy to pop the throttle cable off, at least the rubber mount thing. if you have cruise control, might be worth it to take that off.
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 03:49 PM
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From: Bethesda Oh
no cruise control, no ac, no sub zero start
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 09:20 AM
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From: tulsa,ok.
While the car is idling at 3000 rpm press upwards on the front throttle linkage to see if the idle drops. Also, make sure that the AFM flapper door is not stuck open as this would contribute to a high idle.
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 05:17 AM
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tps?
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Old Mar 17, 2015 | 01:01 PM
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Easy way to check for vacuum leak is when the car is off, light cigarrette/cigar/use ecig and blow smoke into any line that has vacuum. I usually pull off the pressure sensor line and blow in there. You have to blow hard for a little bit, and if there's a leak you will see smoke coming from the location of it. This is the best way to find leaks that I've used. Super easy.
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 03:55 PM
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From: Bethesda Oh
thanks for the suggestions
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 03:56 PM
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From: Bethesda Oh
Going to finally try and get to this this week
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