Yup there you have it. I resolved the main relay and faulty coil issue. Tested every wire and spark plug and i get good spark. Plenty of air. And fuel pump works great. It gets alot of fuel. Cleaned out injectors. Timing is set as it says in the FSM.


This is really irritating me actually. Sorry i keep posting this up, but as I resolve one thing after another it seems like something else has gone bad. What else stops the car from starting?

 

Is there fuel getting inside the engine (injectors working)? I had similar problems, everything ok except the injectors would not work. Turned out that my maf had some solder on the plug (inside the maf) come loose and it was just freaking out the ecu. I pulled the maf and injectors started working. Fixed maf and it started! good luck.

 

Injectors definitely work. I had the professionaly cleaned and they said they flowed great. When I take out the plugs after trying to start it they have fuel on them too so I know they work.

Might be the MAF as you said. I took it apart and saw some of the solder did come loose. But I tried to rig it so they stay connected. Still the same result. Might need a new one, but at this point im sure even if I replaced it I would end up with the same result. Im out of money to keep troubleshooting and no one locally to help me out.

I think I'm about to quit and sell the car so that I can have the money to fix my 240SX. I've always wanted an RX7 but I just cant get it to start and I bought it at the wrong moment. Its a sad day really.

 

Got compression?

 

Good compression. Last time I was able to get it started it had PLENTY of power. The torque was really impressive. Compared to my friends RX7 theres a HUGE difference in compression. His needs a rebuild. This one is strong as hell.

I would ask him to help me out but hes rather useless when it comes to working on a car. lol. Its mean but true. Im the one who replaced his clutch.

 

How's the cranking speed?
You must have a strong battery & connections to spin a Wankel fast enough to build enough compression.

 

pull start it!

 

But how do you know it has good compression? Because it used to run and had "PLENTY" of power? Hardly a good assumption. Do a compression test and post your numbers. Then you'll know if you've got good compression.

 

Brand new Duralast Gold Battery. It gets plenty of power and cranks pretty fast.


About the compression, I can only assume how good the compression is by comparing my engine vs. my friends engine. I DONT have money to go take it to a shop. How can I even get it tested or move it if it wont even start?
The whole point is that it started up until last week. Something went wrong (that im assuming is electrical like a sensor somewhere) that will not allow me to start up the car.

 

Buy a compression tester at Autozone or something and test it yourself...

 

THe problem doesnt have anything to do with compression. A motor with bad compression will still run, it will just run like ****. A motor with no compression is blatently obvious on startup as the engine just freespins.

Check that mass airflow.

 

What exactly does it do when you try to start it?

 

WHat does what do?

 

What the **** kind of question is that... What does his car do when he tries to start it?

Free spin?
Semi-start then die immediately?
Sound like it's trying to turn over but not?
Spin slowly?
etc...

 

Sounds flooded. What more can we say? IF flooded the oil has been washed away from the seals making for low compression.

KILL the fuel pump.

Get MOTOR oil inside the rotors anyway you want, but get oil in there.

Leave the fuel pump DEAD and get a can of starter fluid and spray not more than two to three seconds in the filter, then try starting the car. Remember, KILL the fuel pump so it does not work while your starting the engine. Either make a fuel cut switch or just pull the plug off the pump.

Pull start if you have to. Not my favorite but should work IF you have spark and fuel.

FYI: The afm is NOT a player in the Start cycle, only after the engine actually starts.

 

chill out. I didnt pay attention and for some reason thought you were the original post-er.

 

I was chill. You just confused the hell out of me.

 

Thanks forsaken7 for pointing out the compression issue. Even with bad compression an engine will start. As proven on my friends RX7 (which DEFINITELY has some crappy compression) and even cylinder cars that have a cylinder or two giving no compression.

FYI.
Cranks fast with plenty of spin. NOT free spin. It sounds like it wants to turn on then doesnt. Almost as if something holds it back.

Hailers:
Thanks for the info. Perhaps your right, all the fuel from trying to start it might have washed away all the oil. What type of oil is supposed to be used? 20W-50? I believe thats what the manual stated. Non synthetic.

I'll definitely try what you mentioned. How should i get the oil in there though? Throught the spark plug holes? how much should I put in?

 

On my 82 I used to pour a couple of oz down the throttle.

On your 86 you could pull the lower plugs and squirt some in there, but remember a rotor has three faces so you'd squit some oil.......turh one full crank revolution and squirt again.......turn one more full revolution ans squite again.

Or you could find that LARGE vacuum hose on the front of the dynamic chamber and pull the hose off the nipple. Squirt into the hose while cranking the engine over. That hose leads to the oil injectors top which in tun leads to the rotors themselves. I'd find that preferable to pulling the lower sparkplugs.

The hose is one of three, one above the other on the front of the throttle body area.

Or you could pull the throttle intake snorkel off. The one with two nuts holding it on and squit into the throtte body with the plates open. Maybe do that while some one spins the engine over a couple of times, then reinstall the snorkle and then try to start the engine. Personally I'd disconnect the fuel pump connector and use some starter fluid into the air filter for about two seconds then try to start the engine. It'll only fire up enough to rev to maybe three grand for a moment but should get things cleared out. Maybe do that routine a couple of times then reconnect the fuel pump.

It should work if you have spark. I'm not big on pulling EGI fuses to kill the fuel pump because you lose the spark when you do that routine. To each his own.

Heavily flooded engines really do need that oil to be squirted in the rotors.

Remember though, you NEED to have that snorkel b/t the throttle body and the afm to be in place for the engine to continue to run.