This is my 3rd FC, currently own a FD thats pretty modified that I am thinking about selling. So its my 4th RX7.

Its a 87' turboII with a S5 turbo engine with 41k on the motor... papers to prove it, a intake, exhaust, fcd, fmic, S5 front bumper, S5 tails, very clean black interior and really clean exterior, im told the turbo has been modified and the primary injectors are 1st gen 680s.

Now when driving it at 3500rpm or under with no more then 30% throttle it acts like it gets loaded up, in first gear it will buck like it wants me to give it more gas and go. If I give it more then 30% throttle or WOT it runs great def kind of quick it really surprised me!

I would like to get this sorted out, it only pushes about 7psi according to the boost gauge.

I am guessing the best way to fix this would be to buy a safc2 and a wideband and tune it?

Also my idiot lights and clock dont work but read a thread that says check the alt wire and that should fix it.

Heres some pics, would love to get this car 100% perfect running order since it will be my DD since my trucks tranny isnt in good shape I believe.

 

Should I swap the primary 680s with the secondary 550s?

 

Great purchase! Gold ftw! Rare color combo.

You're running 680s in the primaries? What secondaries are you running? It should be 550cc on the primary and 680cc in the secondary although being at stock boost you should be fine with the 550cc all around. As far as your problem I'd check ignition timing and make sure its set right since I've had a friend's car that had similar issues. Other than that replace or check all the wear items like plugs (leadings only if you're strapped for cash), wires, filters, etc.

 

The secondaries are 550s we read the numbers off of em, yea I can do a plug change and get the timing checked.

So I guess tomorrow I will swap them and see how it runs.

 

If the primaries are 680s and the secondarys are 550s just switch them. That is your problem right there, too much fuel at low rpm...

 

K I am reading the manual and at F2 46 it doesnt tell me how fo releave the fuel pressure. Do I just remove the gas cap to release the pressure?

Found it, its a page up. Says, start the engine, disconnect the fuel pump connector and wait for the engine to stall, turn off the car, reconnect connector.

Looks easier then doing this on the FD, I get to go over the vac lines and everything else which is what I wanted to do anyway.

Can someone post up the numbers on the T2 injectors and the 1st gen 680cc injectors so I can verify this tomorrow.

 

From the FAQ:
What size injectors does my RX-7 use? What colour are they?
Year Engine Plug Size Colour Part #
84-85 13B NA, low square center, 680cc, orange, 195500-0900
86-87 13B NA, low square center, 460cc, red, 195500-1350
86-87 13B Turbo, low square center, 550cc, tan, 195500-1370
88 13B NA, high square offset, 460cc, purple, 195500-1350
88 13B Turbo, high square offset, 550cc, purple, 195500-1370
89-91 13B NA, high oval center, 460cc, red, 195500-2010
89-91 13B Turbo, high oval center, 550cc, purple, 195500-2020

 

Primarys are 195500-1370 secondaries are195500-0900

There is a Vacuum leak on the UIM in the front where theres the 3 nipples, one is open the other has a cap and the other has a vac line connecting to it, I think that may be the problem.

 

ok looks like the injectors are good. What you really need to do is a boost leak test. Cap the vaccum nipple that is left open as you stated above then do a boost leak test. if you dont know how i will explain. very easy to do.

 

Car drives much better now, but still has a very small hesitation.

I'd like to know how to do a boost leak test, and what do I need to do it.

I think the car may also need a tune up.

 

I know there is another vac leak, if i push the gas take it to 4k rpm it drops then goes below idle then climbs back up or rarely stalls.

Also there is a wire wrapped around the dashpot holding it partially open.

 

Took the wire off the dashpot, hit the gas resting idle would be 1500 then lower to about 700-800rpm. I adjusted the dashpot screw got it to go down to 1000 then drops to 700-800.

It lopes slightly between 700-800 like there is a vac leak, also if I give it light throttle it will act light its loading up/flooding then rev clean then at idle lope slightly again.

found another vac cap that was torn so I put a new vac cap on that. all the emissions have been pretty much removed.

The flange that mates to the turbo is leaking slightly also but I wouldnt think that would cause this car to not run smooth.

I don't know where to look or where to start, I did the timing replaced the lower plugs with new ones and cleaned the top plugs since no one had trailing plugs in stock.

 

you guys think my tps sensor is bad?

 

It won't hurt to check. Time to get out that multimeter...

But you really need to do a complete vacuum leak test.

 

Ok I read that how to tell if you have a vac leak, get the car up to running temp and move the afm flapper door slightly if it evens out the idle then do a leak down test.

Tried that, made the car run worse so I guess its not a vac leak.

Moved onto the tps, revved to 2k pushed the plunger in and out made no diff in revs. So decided to see how itd run without the tps connectd to the harness, the car ran better.

So I am guessing the tps sensor is bad?///

 

after adjusting the tps screw i got it to almost idle perfect but there is still a slight hesitation at light throttle.

I am also try to fix my idiot lights / clock i followed this https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+light+failure

I unplugged the 2 wire connector and put a wire in the black/white wire and ground it to the shock tower, it blew the 15a fuse in the fuse box. one of the wires to the alt connector is open a little bit.

So I guess the problem is with the ecu?

 

I am guessing I grounded the L terminal in the fsm which has 12v then ignition is on when I should of grounded the S terminal correct?

 

Ok I believe its a S4 engine. It only has 1 tps and its a narrowband so I may have been looking up the wrong **** for this car.

Time to start with the correct fsm.

 

]Ok I believe its a S4 engine. It only has 1 tps and its a narrowband so I may have been looking up the wrong **** for this car.

also has a manual omp cause the rod is infront of the uim with the cotterpin in it.

Time to start with the correct fsm

 

got a multimeter set the resistance to 200, read the tps at the plug from 6.00 to 5.33 if i pushed the throttle more then 1mm it stops reading so it only reads on idle.