I know rotary resurrection has a write up on his website but I didn't see anything like this. I could of just missed it though.

 

well, that depends on a lot of things.
1. your budget (some people are forced to use less quality parts, due to money)
2. your plans for the engine, power-wise (plan on making 300hp, or keeping it stock)
3. how much time are you putting into the engine, and what do you plan on doing with it? (just a fun, screw around, cheap project, or is this going to be your main, purpose built, whatever)

myself, i can see that one decently deep gouge. i wouldnt use it myself. but, if i was broke, and NEEDED to get my car up NOW, and had no other choice, well, you see where i am going with this.
but, like i said, myself, no, i wouldn't.

 

What gouge are you talking about. I'm basically on a budget. I have ways to get the money but I need to get it up as soon as possible. I want my engine to be an autocross engine large street port, ported intake and a bunch of other stuff.

 

in the middle picture there appears to be a gouge about 3/4 of the way to the right.

 

it'll be hard for any of us to tell if those are real significant gouges, or if they're just surface blemishes without better pics.
the question is
is it perfectly smooth? or does it look like a cat got really angry with it.... like mine did

 

I see it too, but it seems more like a scratch or surface scuff to me. But hey, if all you need to do is get the car running, go for it but use some discretion since that scratch could be more serious than we all think. For most case I think the vehicle should run fine and efficiently. Dont hold me to this since Im one of those disabled people that needs to take a look in person to make a definite judgement

 

Useable? Yes.

Make a running engine with good enough compression to start and go down the road? Yes.

Will it blow up anytime soon if you use new seals? No.

Desireable? no.

Make really good compression? No.

Will it flood/have hotstart problems? Yes.

 

What would be the best compression I would make with. New 2 piece OEM Mazda Apex Seals used springs and used side seals and springs.

 

use new springs too!!

 

if i was you i would get all new springs
for the apex seals, side seals, corner seals, and oil control rings
it does cost some money
but the difference is very much worth it, if you've gone to take the motor apart already
as a side note, if you do, get the 13b-rew corner seal springs, they are 2 bucks cheaper and better sealing.

btw, i feel your pain, i almost put my engine back together, and a friend reminded me it would be wise.... i still dont have the $$

 

Sorry, no just used springs.

 

Oh my fault I do have the corner seal springs for the FD. I would never reuse the old little corner seal springs.

 

budget and need car right now? Why not? You can always tear into the engine again later and put in new ones...

or get a second job and borrow money from ur parents/wife/siblings, etc, just don't go to a bank! =]

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=11-C170-N326
x12 would be 18$

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=11-3510-N225
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=11-353A-1011
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=11-3610-N225
http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=11-363A-1011
totals up to like 23$

that should do it
and check the oil control O-rings too. if those are bad thats another 40$

 

Ok well that is the side seal springs and the oil control springs

 

So even it I used new springs it will still have the same affect. Do you know how long my engine will last and how much compression that rotor would have.

 

I'd expect 85-100psi out of that housing, regardless of what springs you run. Used apex, side, and oil control springs should be fine, unless you bend your stock sideseal springs upon removal.

Other than being finicky to start up, it would last indefinitely. Nothing should break for a long time because of the new seals, it just wouldn't seal very tightly.

There is a little nick/gouge above the exhaust port, you need to use a flat razor and run across that to be sure it is not a high spot that will wear into new seals. You can use a dremel on low speed and a grinding stone or sand roll to take it down a little. Only take off what you need to keep it from grabbing the razor. Use light pressure with the bit, like you are writing with a pencil.

 

Ok i will I appreciate it. Thanks.