What are some good beginner mods I can perform on my S4 13B N/A? I'm a total nub to cars... certainly to rotary - so please, feel free to condescend. LOL

iSP33D-for-J3SUS

 

cone filter
header
exhaust
ngk's wires + ;lugs

 

FSM
Haynes Manual

 

iSP33D-for-J3SUS and kungfuroy smaller signatures (including pictures)....that will help your car go faster... Fix your signature to the maxium allowed and your car will be a rocket.

6 lines... including any pictures...that is as big as you can go.

and TOOSHORT_88 reply of:
is pretty useless, since a cone filter will lower HP unless you make or use a cold air box, a header will only give a minor increase in HP on a non turbo unless you do a true dual, and NGK wires won't give you even one 1/4 of a single horse... might get you back to stock if your cables are pretty bad, but will never give you any increased power.

 

Basic Maintenance

 

true duals (www.mazdatrix.com), SAFC, Pinneaple racing sleeves, .....not really beginer mods but you'll get HP from them.....Like Mark Said CAI, TB MOD and most important of all......SEARCH

with that said: those would prolly not qualify as BEGINNER mods but they aren't hard to do......

 

Once you get your car running perfectly, the best thing for power on a rotary is to open up the exhaust. If you can get away with it, no cats is the best way and then a quality cat-back to finish it off. I'm pretty sure a header is pretty much a waste of money unless you have some big porting done. You can fab up a cold air intake too for pretty cheap, there is a few write-ups on the forum about it, just search and you'll find them I'm sure.

 

Pinneaple racing sleeves i heard that those wasnt a good idea to use that they can get sucked into your block and then well damages your rotors and then you dont have a motor is that true...??

 

Search baby gurl, this was covered in great length a year or so ago.

 

haven't had problems in my fiancee's NA....drove it from OHIO (a large part of it was heavy footed driving and no issues yet)

 

Only if the "ramp" is installed improperly into the sleeve. I've had mine over 3 years in there and they are fine. Mine were done by PR, instead of being sent to me, and then me pressing them in. I'm not taking any credit for a preoper install
-a

 

^^ yeah sorry i never searched i just heard from someone... so could you put them into a n/a automatic could you gain anything?

 

leanr to drive a stick.....the AT to MANUAL swap is the best MOD YOU can do......and yeah it will help but the tranny robs you of so much torque (the little that the 7's have)

 

what???? how do you figure going with a cone filter will make you loose horse power? yeah you will be getting hotter air but on the good side your engine is breathing alot better with the cone filter

 

Please, its not prudent to argue with Icemark.

More air in not necessarily better! Air density is the key. Cold air is more dense. More dense air translates to more power. If you have alot of hot air, then the engine is going to ingest only what it needs, but it will be less dense and yield less power. (the last statement is for n/a).
-a

 

that is true but , you will not loose any power by going with a cone filter .
that s what im trying to get at.....

 

this was a thread for beginner mods
not for arguements'
thks.

 

Holy ****. I had a hell-uva hard time reading that and getting ANY useful information out of it.

 

so, whats your point?


Get your engine ported when it gets rebuilt.

 

You guys haven't been too helpful (with a few exceptions).

The EASIEST and CHEAPEST mods you can do are weight reduction. For example, my car came with a back seat: I tore it out and sold it to some guy who drove HOURS to pick it up for $100. Contrary to what some people have said, headers are great. The stock precats are probably clogged (to an extent) and a header is far less restrictive. Paired with the proper catback exhaust (RB is very quiet), you will get increased performance without pissing off everyone you drive by.

 

No, unless the cone filter is bigger than 5 dia X 4 high, and has an external air flow (not just replacing the stock air box with a cone filter- but a cool air box protecting the filter from taking in warm engine air) there will be a dyno proven loss of Horse power on a non turbo FC (as well as many other cars).

Proven over and over and over again, with actual dyno tests with sheets that have been posted.

Add in the effect of warm air increases the possibility of detonation/pre-ignition of the fuel (most notably at mid-range speeds) and a cone filter without any sort of cool air protection is just asking for blown motors and reduced power.

And remember the ECU adjusts timing based on air temp in the AFM and DEI, actually retarding timing at higher RPMs if warmer air is detected, actually lowering engine's output even further.

 

damn...i didn't know that......this is why you don't argue with Mark fools...just cuz turbo mag or import ric-ummmm-tuner says you gain HP doesn't mean you gain it.......

 

isnt it kinda obvious? engine takes in air by volume.....so the oxygen content is based on density.....

 

lol.... it was more of a question anyways... & i got the answer..

 

Yeah, another example the K&N FTPK cone filter kit for my V6 Tacoma, actually had a 7% loss over the stock system.

Now here is a supposedly designed cone filter intake and tube kit that because of the hot engine compartment air getting into the intake, lowered dyno/RWHP by an average of 7% (or another way to look at it: down 15 HP peak) (as dyno sheets posted on TacomaTerritory have proven).

But, replace the stock element with a K&N panel filter, and remove the stock passengers underfender intake parts, and there is a 6 Peak RWHP increase.

Just another example of ricer mods, actually making fewer HP.

Yep a Cone filter, without a cool air box, is a waste of money on a street driven vehicle.

So, getting back to this thread, the only decent first/newbie/simple/1st stage mods are going to be a catback (in this case designed for a non turbo), a drop in filter like a K&N or RamAir, and a good tune up.

When the thread originator is ready to step up (2nd stage), then things like a SAFC, large cone filter with cool air box, down pipe or true duals, flywheel, and intake port matching come into play.