like it says i'm going to be replacing my clutch in the next couple of weeks and i need to know what i have to replace. I did a search and read i'll probably need to replace the gland nut seal (i have no clue what that is) and I imagine the front seal as well. If there's anything else i need to replace please let me know what it is and the best place to get it. I looked at mazdatrix for a few seals but they seem a little pricey. thanks for the help

 

This is overkill, but you won't have any problems for a long time...

1) clutch disk, pressure plate
2) throwout bearing
3) tranny front & rear seals
4) tranny front cover (depending on how worn the fork pivot "ball" is)
5) pilot bearing & seal (got a pilot bearing remover?)
6) bushing kits for the shifter (upper & lower, again, depending on what shape the old ones are in, or if they're even there anymore)
7) flywheel turning is up to you, I just use a die grinder with the round scotchbrite pads to remove the glaze

Think that's it, am I missing anything guys?

 

Clutch alignment tool, but that's really easy and cheap to get.

 

Here I'll save you some money, go to gripforce.com and get the Exedy clutch kit. It includes the disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing and alignment tool. The kit cost me about 150, wich is better than the 350+ I was getting quoted by the chain shops.

On the wear side you should be pretty good, my 89 GXL with 217,000 miles didn't have that much wear on the clutch fork but the pilot bearing was pretty dry, so plan on replacing that anyway.

 

That's a hell of a deal for a clutch, plate, and bearing. How's that clutch rated against other aftermarket ones?

 

From what I understand it's what Mazda uses.

 

What the heck is the tranny front/rear seal? i pulled my tranny and i dont recall seeing these in the FSM, nor did i use a new one...

 

I'm sure that he is referring to the seals that keep the oil from escaping from around the transmission input and output shafts, there is also a gasket for the front cover plate, I replaced all 3 of these when I did my clutch but only because there was some weeping.

I HATE oil dripping from my car!

As for the suggestion of the Exedy clutch, hmmm, my direct experiance is that they sell a 'get's you by' level of kit that is definitly not up to hard usage. I had to replace mine after 6,000 miles, it was already slipping! Not to mention the release bearing began to squeal after a few hundred miles!

I went with an ACT heavy duty street/strip kit that included the pressure plate, clutch, release bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool. The only other thing that I did and would recommend is having the flywheel machined.

 

I didn't rplace mine when I did my clutch assembly, but not a bad idea.
From RB site:

Transmission Front Seal and Rear Seal Kit

We recommend replacing the transmission front seal and rear seal kit when re-installing the transmission to reduce the risk of leakage. The primary reason for leaks seems to be the large loads that are placed on the input shaft when re-installing the transmission, when it is common to have to hang the transmission on the input shaft at some point disturbing the seal. Hence, replacing the seals during re-installation is a wise idea.

 

 

i think the people that worked on my tranny used liquid gasket for the front cover plate, seems to have worked well.

 

Is 125 for an ACT clutch kit a good price? Heavy duty PP street disc TOB and PB.......and alignment tool...

 

the ACT heavy duty pp is the same as stock. I use the organic HD setup for Exedy. I get the kit from

http://clutchexpress.com/

For about 259.00 shipping included. THE PP is about 305 better than stock and has held up to every ported motor I have built. The disc is unbelieveble - never slippage.

If you decide to cut the flywheel, make sure that you machine the PP mounting points the exact same as you do the surface or your clutch will wear out prematurly. I usually do the roloc scotchbrite thing myself.

 

well i bought am oem clutch and pressure plate for 150, i have an alignment tool. so what can i omit doing now and do later as i have to split my money between my 7 and my daily driver. could i get by with just replacing the front and rear seal. or is it a must to replace the throwout bearing and pilot bearing?

 

bearings alone are like 30 bucks.....

 

I was told that the throwout bearing doesn't wear out that easy but you should still change it with a clutch replacement because that could cause the tranny to not operate as well as it should. My guy also told me that the OEM throwout bearing is the best out there comparable to others sold. This, Im not too sure about but Im sure other fellas will comment also. Good luck to you.