Installing my WideBand O2 this weekend, at work right now, preparing a list of **** I need to do. Am I missing anyhting?

„h S-Afc on the boost sensor take off TPS
„h Adjust low throttle point to the voltage of ~6 Psi or so.
„h Adjust high throttle point to the voltage of over 9 psi or so
„h Pipe TPS signal in to WB unit
„h RPM signal from ECU, or crane cams HI-6
„h Boost sensor signal for logging to Wbo2 also
„h Remove smog pump belt
„h Get hole in for bung above 3 & 9 o¡¦clock with room for copper get bung welded
„h Cut copper pipe and drill as heat sink
„h Get permanent hookup of voltage and all signals
„h Wire AF-30 from an analog signal of WB.
„h Calibrate and test unit per instructions and forum print out
„h Wire up remote power and ground switch based
„h Turn off all unused logging inputs
„h Configure and install software for rotaries.

I will be logging Trottle position, A/F ratio, RPM Curve, Boost pressure, and hopefully intake Temp. 44 mins of log time per. I should be able to post some nice graphs on here also when I get done tuning Sunday.


I will take pictures along the way and post them up here when I finish up ... should be all set and runing by late Saturday. I might do a little write up on how this all works if I get bored enough.

Keep ya posted.

Plz post if you see somthing I have forgoten.

-Robert

 

First open the box

Included;
Wbo2 sensor, 10ft sensor cable, O2 bung & plug, data cable, power cable, PC software, LM-1 Unit. I also ordered as extra the RPM converter with 4 data log 0-5V ports.

More pics coming.

 

Next locate your ECU. This alone is incentive to go with a stand-alone EMS. I have some much **** wired into my ECU. You do not even need to touch your ECU for the standard install if you just want to read and log A/F Ratio. I am wiring the ECU to log my throttle position, and Boost pressure along with A/F ratio & RPM band. Don'’ mind the mess too much, I cleaned it up before I was done

 

This is the additianl part I ordered. It’s called an RPM converter. This allows you to log RPM band with the A/F ratio, and you can see also has the 4 additional hookups to log any other 0-5V sensor you wish. In my case the TPS, and Boost sensor. You just bring your leads from the ECU, and a good ground and wire it up. I pulled the RPM lead from my Crane Cams HI-6 ignotion box, instead of the ECU, for a cleaner pulse signal. You must put your CDI in 0-1 setting to remove the multispark capability in order to get the proper reading below 3000 RPM’s.

 

you have a similar setup to me and i wanted to get the lm-1 and the apexi s-afc too adn 720cc 2nd's

just keep us posted. on your progress

 

Here is the unit itself, all hooked up and doing the initial pre-heat and calibration of the sensor in clean air. I am going to keep the unit plugged in for tuning only, then remove it and have my AF-30 wired into the analog output to feed me real time digital A/F signals after initial tuning. Keep in mind you also need to make a copper heat sink for this sensor on a rotory turbo, the sensor just gets too hot otherwise. I am not quite finished with that part, I will post more pics when I am. Also I will post some screen shots of the logging in the software. This setup will log 44 Mins at a time into memory.

 

This is only true with the Bosch sensor, the NTK sensor can take the heat no problem....

 

The L1M1 is the one I use

 

the NTK is only rated at 200 degrees higher, and cost $150 more. Each time you need a new one your talking fairly big bucks compared. I have heard mixed reviews if the extra 200 degrees is enough .. some guys have had sucsess, others needed a heat sink anyways. I did a cost benifit analysis in my head and decided a heat sink would be the better solution.

 

My sensor is over a year old and has pretty much always been in a running car....still works fine....

 

I agree with you on the cost comparison though

 

whats the benifit of doing this? can you run this on your stock ecu?

 

sure you can run it on your stoock ECU, but if you have no way to control the fuel there is not really a point. It may help you set your boost to just before you go lean, but it's much more useful if you have a way to control the fuel flow, once you know your fuel flow.

 

Your running that on a supra motor though right? Not really a comparison on the heat output of a piston motor with valves, and a rotory with huge ports of fire ***** If I could run the car with no CAt ever, I could put it much farther away from the exhaust output ... and have no problems at all, but as it is I have it at the very end of my DP, cause I will have to put on a cat this september to smog. I plan to leave the highflow cat I get in place afterwords also, my car is just too loud.

 

Ahh, i just looked at your Sig. You have an S-AFC. your all set, The Wide Band just gives you a very accurate real time & logged reading of your Air fuel ratio. This allows you to tune your fuel output to increase boost safely. It is basically what people go to the dyno for, minus the HP/torque readings. If you are seriuos are bout having higher boost, and not blowing your motor, and having it run correctly when modifing the car you need to either get a wide band, or use a wideband while on the dyno.

hope that helps a bit.

 

Yes, But prior to that I had a modded S4 and an S5 engine in there with an SAFC and gobs of other stuff and I have used the same sensor to tune many full standalone 13BT's also. On a side note, Brian Cane (BDC) uses this same sensor to tune everything including Hassan's 470+RWHP half bridge monster and Tony Farka's (87GTR) half bridge to 480+rwhp, and no one loves the dyno more than BDC!!! They have not had any problems either! It is still more expensive though! And that is a spendy sensor to take chances on!

 

 

I leave my NTK L1H1 in the downpipe 24/7. That's been for close to or over two years now. Oh....they still work.

Actually it's good to see another type meter being used. Maybe you'll post what your readings are at full throttle, cruising etc someday.

 

I built the techedge wideband 02 sensor. I have it installed on teh engine on the dyno right now.

anyhow why don't u leave all your stuff alone and just run the wideband under normal use to observe it a bit.

 

I will be up and running this thing tonight. It is all ready to go, my last hold up was getting the O2 bung welded in place, I pick up my DP from the shop after work. So i can post some results as eary as tonight.

I want to log everything, there is no impact on the WB reading by doing the additional logging I am doing, it is 2 seperate parts of the unit. to me it makes NO sence whatsoever to be able to read A/F ratio without being able to at least read what the ratio is at what RPM curve (just like a dyno, after all my fuel tuning is S-AFC witch is based on RPM's) so that was a must for me, and it's also why i payed extra for that part of the unit. I also think it's a really good idea to see your boost levels in corospondence also (considering I have my S-AFC set to the pressure sensor, even more-so). I see no reason to not use all the features when they are avalible to me. It will just give me mor info, and moe capabilities.

I also have an external display unit, so i can hide the large unit.

Also, i will not be doing any tuning on a dyno (way to inacurate, and stray to far from real driving) so in order to concentrate on the road all this logging will be necisary.

 

Here is my first data log, just a pic to kinda show you guys how it works, (those that don't have one) This is just at idle, couple blips of the throttle ... I have not made the adjustments of my Aux inputs yet, but you get the idea.

 

what is the status?

 

The status is damn near perfection, it is running perfect. Right now I still have the stock top mount, so I am running 12 PSI on my second stage, and 8.5 on my first. The WB works perfect, I would reccomend it to anyone. I just bought a new 185 AMP welder so I can weld alluminium now, I plan to make my from mount setup very shortly then shoot for 15 PSI on the high stage. I do get a little hessitation from 4-5k at WOT, but I am working on correcting that, I think I might be running a little rich there, but I don't want to tweak it to much till I do my front mount.

I can't praise this WB setup enough though, excelent software, easy to use, removable, long log times, and very accurate. A++


-Robert

 

Here is a PIC of the sensor; Don't mid the ugly *** copper piece, that just for heat disapation.

 

Cool,
I have the same setup and I am currently wiring the additional inputs up for monitoring...

I was able to use heavy sheetmetal and the bung on my Downtube.. No overheating at all!

It is to cool to adjust the SAFC and see the difference in AF rates real time on the Wideband!!!

I have my AF rates real rich while under boost... 10.5/1, I am trying to be careful until I get a good baseline under all driving conditions....

Do I understand that your going to mount it remotely once you have your tuning done and use an AFR Meter off the anolog output? Innovative Tech now sells a Wideband meter 60mm for like 50 bucks to use off your anolog output cable! I am considering ordering it right now, it looks nice...