Alright, 90 N/A with smog(well I took the smog pump off to keep it out the way). I just fot done replacing the gasket from the water pump case to the front rotor housing. Now I want NOT to put back on the clutch fan-its a real pain in the *** and looks fugly with my sexy Koyo aluminium rad.-so I went to aaron cakes site to get the info. But I don't have a thremo switch on mine only the thermo sensor. So I am not sure how I want to wire it. I searched the forum and read that a lot of people buy a kit at the local parts store. SO I wanted to post this to get some ideas on how to do it "right".

Thanks, Evan

 

You have to buy a thermoswitch suitable for an e-fan. All the info you need to "do it right" is on Aaron's e-fan pages, including the wiring. What else do you need to know?

 

E-fans are covered quite extensively in the FAQ for FC sticky thread. You should always read the FAQ for FC sticky thread before posting as many commonly asked questions (such as the one you started this thread with) are covered there.

And removing the air pump on your car, removes about 30% of the peak power as your aux ports and VDI will no longer function.

 

^^^There is a lot of "false" info surrounding E Fans though. Aaron Cakes website is great, but there are gains to be had by removing the stocker and going to an E Fan. There is now a dyno proven 11rwhp gain, as opposed to the ~1hp Aaron quotes on his site. All of this info is in the N/A performance section.

 

The thing about dynos is that they lie. There are many things to consider when looking at a situation like this.

Were the two dyno runs done under exactly the same conditions? This is harder to achieve then you might think. I can make two dyno runs back to back on my car and see a 10 HP difference.

Was the e-fan on during the run? Was the clutch fan on during the run?

Was the drivetrain the same temperature?

Were many runs made under difference circumstances and the increase in HP averaged?

I'm not arguing and saying there was no gain, but 11 HP for a properly working clutch fan seems more then a bit high. The fan should freewheel when not needed.

 

you can easily wire it as follows:

take a positive of the battery into a 30 amp fuse block and into a relay, ground relay and fan to chasis, run switched positive to fan, run the relay switch positive into a "ignition on" wire.

it will work and be safe though your fan will run at all times the car is on.

 

I posted this to get info and not be SHAT ON do you get it. I'll check the faq and if you read "icemark" I hadn't put the smog pump back on because it is in my f'n way. Now Mr. New Zealand I appreciate the "what else so you need to know" how do to it right the first time. Aaron Cake I like the fact that you made your site and you give helpful info. Yet you reply to RED1990GTU and not to what I typed, much appreciated I could care less about putting my n/a on the dyno... Most of the time I see a lot of **** typed that is crap and I guess ya'll just assume this is crap to. Thanks for you time you f'n cackface motha fockers!!!!

 

^^^yea but it will impede airflow into the radiator at high speeds

 

Wow, calm down dude! Go to an auto parts store, buy a temperature sensor, wire it up as spec in aaron's site, minus the location of the sensor. Done.

grow some thick skin and ******* search next time!

 

ok look Rockman 7, I know it can be hard to find stuff your looking for by searching, trust me I ask some dumbshit, but just because you are annoied does NOT mean you can/should blow up in our faces.

this site is free,people are dedicating there valuble time to help you; and the last person you should **** off is Icemark, he is terribly knowlegable of these vehicles and you should be happy to know he took the time to look at your problems.

I wired one up using arrons site and if my dumb *** can so can you. now grow some skin to suit your screen name.

 

These runs were done back to back, within 5 minutes of each-other. Dotted line is from the mech. fan run, solid is with the E-fan right after:



According to the original poster of the dyno-sheet:

I was really impressed, considering the low-power of the 7 to start with. This was the "shining light" in an overall worthless thread: https://www.rx7club.com/naturally-aspirated-performance-forum-220/simple-gain-suggestions-n-owners-715386/page5/

 

Terrible idea. Running the fan all the time would make it a downgrade from the stock fan, and will reduce cooling performance at speed.

I was quite prepared to answer any questions you had (and you had not asked any meaningful questions), but with that ungrateful attitude you don't deserve anybody's help and certainly won't get it from me...

It's interesting that the power difference between the two lines continues to increase all the way to redline, despite that fact that the fan clutch is supposed to slip over ~3krpm to prevent it needlessly over-revving. Is this fan's clutch not working the way it should? Keep in mind this is one pair of runs with one fan, and the results should be considered in that light. Has anyone else ever shown a similar gain? It doesn't require 11hp to run a thermoclutch fan that should have plenty of air flowing over it and not be fully engaged.

 

Yeah, that's what sparked the controversy in that (worthless) thread in the first place. Someone who appeared legit and honest claimed to have gained a decent amount of WHP from switching to an E-fan--and had done back to back tests. He wasn't able to produce a dyno-sheet, so everyone argued about it for 6 pages until someone stepped up and produced a credible test--with all of the conditions that people had been asking for.

The guy who stepped up, (GtoRx7) owns his own shop with a dyno and was able to oversee all aspects of the test. Seemed like a respectable guy who knew what he was doing, so I don't have a reason to cast aspersion.

 

I do suit my "skin". Clutch fan is back on. Maybe some people should use the spell checker next time. As for ungrateful, I am so sorry to have taken up your time creep.

 

my bad bad post)

 

I've seen that dyno graph, and have the same concerns as everyone else.

The power increase should not be across the board.

Dynos have a margin of error and will often show two different readings for two "identical" runs. I've had people wanting me to chase 20HP differences between dyno runs, while I am trying to explain to them that the difference is due to dyno tolerance, heat soak, air temp, etc.

The true and scientific way would be to make many runs over a long period and average any gains.

Though I will update my e-fan page to say there is some anecdotal evidence that in some cases an e-fan will give you a power gain.

 

i own the car in question. its just a stock port with bolt-ons. we did make several runs on the dyno. about 7 runs before and 5-6 after. it did very slightly, 2-3 hp a run. i think it still shows that the electric fan is a good mod for the money. i also am going to mention that this car was never intended to be a monster i put it together with parts i had laying around. not a bad package all in all. this car has alot more in it just have to spend some money and have some tuning done. i would expect around 155-160 with its current set-up. i will post again after some tuning with a new dyno sheet.

 

just a thought. The eFan pulls air through the radiator, so how would it hurt cooling performance to be on at higher speeds? Wouldnt that just make for wasted electrical energy, though not mechaical, and not less cooling performance?

 

Past a certain speed, the air is being pushed in through the front of the car faster than the fan can pull it. From that point the fan blades actually hinder airflow because they're effectively pushing back on the air.

 

i had a hard time searching for e-fan info as well. im not takin up for the starter of this thread by any means i just wanted to share my experience. it is hard to sift through hundreds of threads and pull out the correct info. between aaron being bent on no performance gain in every thread, others saying there is, now apparently a dyno saying there is it tends to get a bit confusing. i ended up going with a black magic on my car mainly for the clearance of engine bay room. there is so much bad info on e-fan's you have to be careful what you believe when you read, a classic example is this very thread, nzconvertible has already corrected the guy but somebody said to wire it up constant on....... just little things like that add up and can possibly confuse the hell out of people. just my experience on the matter


aside from that i have a black magic and it seems to do its job just fine, the install wasnt to hard though it involved fabbing due to my fmic piping on the passenger side, im happy with my purchase

 

what is the URL for the thread/FAQ/Sticky for the eFan install?

 

nevermind - i found it: here is is for anyone else looking:

Installation instructions:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efaninstall.htm
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...ectricfan.html