it's frustrating, and endless it seems, but I won't give up.

Among all the problems with the car that I have fixed my car still puts out 1500 units on the Hydrocarbons, NOT even close to passing my cali standards. and I've checked everything,

-Timing, it's on great
-new plugs
-new 02 sensor
-91 octane
-ran hot
-no vacum leaks (actually replaced them all)
- air pumps seems to be fine,
-no leaks anywhere
-and the cats, at least from when i pulled them off seem fine, and the smog guys said he would be able to tell if they were bad

The car runs good except I can't get it to start when it's cold.

::::
-maybe too much fuel (also may be the cause of the no start)
-low compression (also may be the cause of the no start?)
-maybe cat(s) are bad? affect it that much?

what else may affect the hydrocarbons? anyideas how to get them down?

Joey

 

You'll do better with 87 octane. It burns better than 91+ in a N/A motor.

The high hydrocarbons suggest that combustion is not complete or that the cats are bad (but more than likely a combo of both).

When it doesn't start cold, what does it do?

 

Whoa, 1500. I had a pretest done a week ago. I have no cats, no airpump, and no acv, and my hydro carbons were only at around 450. I think ~150 is the max you can have and pass and ~250+ labels you as a Gross Poluter.

 

I really don't know whats going on with that thing, thats why I'm thinking I'm getting too much fuel.


As for the cold start it cranks and cranks and cranks, before, if I played with it enough, it would start, but heres the funny part, if I the battery charger to it, on 50 amps it'll start right up!!!! so go figure, it's a new battery so i know it's not that, it's holding a charge fine, becuase I have ran the car for over an hour, and turned it off, left it, and came back like 2 hours later and it started.

 

kinda odd, but in my case, i passed smog like a week ago and its a NA w/207k miles on the engine (what an old fart) and all i did was change the ignition wires,got new sparks, changed oil w/oil filter, and the smog guy was cool, he ran it 3 times before the actual test and i passed, the cat was really damm HOT and my gas tank was almost empty. oh yah, and it starts up just fine everytime i crank it, doesnt choke

 

on my 85 gslse I had 2000 hydrocarbons! A gross polluter if I woulda let them stick the probe in the bung hole of my 7. Anyways, I was noticing a slight missfire on deceleration so thought maybe my ACV was bad. I put on a new/used ACV from the junk yard and hydrocarbons dropped to 120! Who woulda thought it would make soo much differance.

 

where is the air control valve located? I know as soon as you tell me I'm going to feel stupid, but tell me anyway

 

Is your OMP stuck open, sound slike maybe a sick amount of oil.

Replace that damn cat though.

 

Okay,

The ACV is located (facing the motor) on the left hand side below the intake manifold. IT controls where the split/port air goes for your secondary air injection system.

Now here is my recipe for emissions....

From a post I did a few months ago:

J-rats Recipe for cheating emissions if its ABSOLUTELY necessary:

1. Turn variable resistor to full lean, or as lean as you can get and still run.

2. Trick ACV into pumping air to the cat all the time by removing the FORWARD UPPER vac hose, and capping it.

3. Run 87 octane

4. Run your tank down till your almost empty.

5. 2-3 bottles of alcohol in the tank. Drive VERY GINGERLY to the emissions station.

6. Once you pass go DIRECTLY to a gas station. And fill up.

Jarrett

(I assume NO responsibility for what happens if you blow your shiet up...)

*edit* And FYI, its probably a malfunctioning ACV.

 

a whole can of carb cleaner can help too i think???? thats wut i did...heheh

 

Extra amps and your starting problems go away? Maybe it's an ignition problem. How do the plug wires look? Are those new plugs of the correct heat range?

Also, what were your NOx numbers? If your NOx is extremely low, it's probably an ignition or fueling problem in both rotors. If it's not that low, it could be the cat problem or an ignition/fueling problem in just one rotor, or something related to the cat's air supply.

Good luck!

 

ok, so this is what I'm going to do:

-Pull off the ATF trick and try to get some compression back (though it might be fine, but for the sake of do it anyway)
-Run a couple of new ground wires
-Replace the cat
-Replace the ACV (also maybe trick the avc, if you guys advise that)
-and the achohal trick, before I ran one bottle, and I knew it wasn't enough but it was around and I had no time.
-then I'm going to smog it.

also you suggest leaning the car out?


Other stuff:
-I have new plugs and new wires, NGK (NGK, what else?)
-How do I tell if my OMP is stuck open, it might be, cause it leaks.

 

when i smogged my car i just went to a small "hick-ville" station, and slipped a lil something to Joe Schmoe and told him to make me pass. He did it w/ a nice smile on his face and passed my car the 1st time.

 

The ATF treatment really should be considered a last resort. It is murder on the water and oil seals if left in any length of time, and to do it right, you do need to leave it in there for a while.

 

2-3 bottels, hummm ever think of becoming a cook hehe

 

Go through the ACV checks in the factory service manual, there's a whole section on emissions troubleshooting there.
Check that the convertor is catalysing by measuring the inlet and outlet temps with an infrared pyrometer. The outlet should be 50*C or more hotter than the inlet. A brand new cat on my header was 300* in, 350* out.

 

I would like to know also. What would be the symptoms if this thing is broken. Would it affect emmisions?

 

First off, the chances of an S4 OMP failing are VERY slim. But you can check the lever actuator by looking at the OMP (by the lower radiator hose). Have someone actuate the throttle and make sure the lever on it goes up and down, smoothly.

Jarrett

 

ok, one more thing, there are several little what I think are grounds. The have white connectors and go to a tiny little black box, and the lack box goes to a ring connector, then well, to ground. From what I can see there are three of them, but one of them the wire is broken off. And the connector is missing, well at least it's an open white connector.

My question is, are they grounds, what are the little black boxes, and do I need them.