Valkyrie

So I got my hub in today and finally installed my new Momo Race wheel.

For that matter, it was totally worth it. It takes far less work of the hands to go around corners now, and makes it a bit easier to get into the car... plus it looks and feels great.


Now, since I couldn't find any decent instructions on how to install it for the FC, I figured I go ahead and create a writeup.

Tools needed:

Short phillips head screwdriver (and a long one would help too)

21 mm socket, plus extension, and long-handled socket wrench (or a breaker bar)

allen wrench that coems with the hub

torque wrench



Parts needed:

Aftermarket wheel (Momo, Sparco, Nardi, or Grant)

Appropriate hub for the FC

a 4-inch length of wire (18 gauge will work) and two spade connectors (if the ground wire isn't included... mine didn't have one) that will fit the button connectors

long-handled pliers (only if you don't have a ground wire already)

wire stripper (once again, only if you're making your own ground wire)

6 allen screws to bolt the wheel on



Step 1. Remove the four bolts on the back of the stock steerng wheel that hold the horn button on.

Step 2. Disconnect and remove the button.

Step 3. Mark the steering column with a marker which way is up. This is important if you want to the wheel to go on straight without having to take it to an alignment shop...

Step 4. Lock the steering column.

Step 5. Crack the 21mm bolt on the steering wheel. Don't take it all the way off! You may have to put a lot of force into it... Try to hold the wheel rather than letting the lock take the brunt of the force.

Step 6. Wiggle the wheel till it pops off. Remove the bolt all the way and remove the wheel.

Step 7. Place the hub onto the column spline, noting which way the "UP" mark on the hub is, and allign the top bolt with the mark you made on the column spline (unless you're wheel was off-center to begin with, like mine, in which case, you can adjust it a bit).

FYI, make sure any of the bits that were under the steering wheel stay where they were... otherwise your turn signal cancel might not work right.

Step 8. Bolt that bitch on with the nut you took off. The proper torque spec is 40 NM (which I think is about 39.5 foot pounds).

Step 9. Place the silver grounding ring onto the top of the hub. Place the rubber cover onto the hub now. Connect the tab on this ring to the ground connector on the horn button with a ground wire (you may have to make your own).

Step 10. Connect the wire that is connected to the hub to the tab on the center of the horn button's back Place the horn button into the silver grounding ring (make sure it's level or it'll look silly).

Step 11. Now for the fun part... Place the wheel onto this ring and hold it in place. If your wheel comes with a trim ring place it on top of the wheel. Now put the first of the allen screws into the top hole and screw it in. Screw the rest of them in loosely as well.

Before you go any further, make sure the horn works... if not, one of the wires might be loose.

Step 12. Tighten the screws in a criss-cross pattern like you would a wheel. This might be optional but it's a very good idea. Take it for a test drive to make sure your turn signal cancel works, and to make sure you've got the wheel on straight.


The bad news now is that if you're over about 5'8 or so, you're PROBABLY going to need to get a spacer so you can see the gauges again (unless you slouch or lean waaaay back). I can't see the turn signals at all and it cuts part of the tach and the oil pressure gauges. A 2" spacer will probably solve this for me, not to mention put the wheel in a much better position for precision control.

I realize this writeup may have been a bit common sense, but I figure it'll help someone...

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Sweeeeet. Nice write up

1990RXHeaven

woot. STICKY!!!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Excellent,Informative and Very Easily Understood!..you could not ask for any Better!!..Good stuff Valkyrie!(I agree this should Be a Sticky!)

1990RXHeaven

well, I was only half joking with the sticky. Archive = maybe. Sticky = Most likey not. But still sahhhhhhhweet.

Valkyrie

For reference, here is a thread regarding QD spacers for added legroom.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/steering-wheel-spacer-solution-tall-drivers-437513/

There is a company on eBay selling non-QD spacers in several colors, and verying lenghts (30, 50, 80), which look nice as well.

I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to see all of my gauges, even with a 2.5" spacer, at least not while in a proper upright seating position... although I guess I need the headroom anyway (although now I might need a short shifter because 5th gear is a bit distant... not too far to do, I just don't have a bend in my arm when I grab it.).

Icemark

You forgot all about mentioning the position sensor and position sensor holes on the back of the steering wheel hub.

There are two plastic tabs that must be aligned up properlly into the holes on the back of the hub. If you fail to do so the power steering will not work correctly, as well as the turn signals.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

mods, could you change the thread title to "aftermarket steering wheel" ? for a second I thought this was something retarded like how to put an aftermarket wheel (like the kind that has a tire) on.

Valkyrie

Well, apparently that's what I made a mention not to move when you install the wheel... I made sure they lined up with which way the mark I made faced, and I haven't had any problems with the steering or turn signals.

But still, I did account for it in a way... (just a crappy way)


And yes, I agree the title should be changed... It's just an oversight on my part.