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We all know the poor lighting the factory halogen's output. After searching and shopping I ended up making the switch to GE sealed 6054. To my understanding this is a "Truck-Lite" clone as well. These are Stamped on the front of the lens GE and have the DOT rating approval. THESE ARE PLUG AND PLAY. Just be sure to secure the wire loom coming from the back of the bulb to prevent being pinched when bringing the headlamp buckets up and down...
Of course there are many aftermarket and cheap versions of LED's available. I chose not to sacrifice safety and went with a name brand high end brand. The price I paid is $145 PER SIDE. They have a 3 year warranty so lets see how they hold up.
The color is listed at 5600 Kelvin. While I was at it I also upgraded/replaced my fog light bulb to an H3 LED bulb to replace the H3c. There was a slight wiring difference but nothing too difficult. These are 6000K and match the headlamps very close. Overall I am very happy with the lighting upgrade on the vehicle. At this point every bulb (aside from turn signals and gauge cluster) all exterior bulbs are LED as well as interior bulb
The light output is fantastic, the cutoff is crisp to prevent blinding other drivers. It's a fantastic upgrade for my GTU and it looks period/era correct for the car. No crazy google eye jeep lights for me.
-M
Another reason i went with the Brand is the era-correct look. I did not want "Jeep" cheap lights...
PS another reason for me doing a full exterior LED upgrade was less overall amp draw on the ALT and less current needing to be passed through the headlamp switch...
Now If I can just figure out how to get the fogs to work when the headlamps are off... A bit of wire diagram reading should get it..
-M
Thanks,littel expensive.
And don't need any canbus or resistance,its plug&play?
They are a bit expensive yes. I waited nearly 5 months for the price to drop to $145 each. They do not require anything, literally plug and play. I secured the wire loom with zip tie to prevent pinching when headlights go up and down.
There are many cheap options available on Ebay and such, but not of them scream quality or durability. Plus these are DOT approved and the beam pattern is crisp...
Thanks,littel expensive.
And don't need any canbus or resistance,its plug&play?
Not as expensive if you factor a proper HID (cheap and legal) conversion. A decent HID projector will run you about $100, ballast will be another $50, HID bulbs another $40, headlight buckets, plus relay AND all of the work to make the conversion. After all is said and done, you have a cheap (but legal) HID setup... A quality HID bulb runs about $100!!!
Not as expensive if you factor a proper HID (cheap and legal) conversion. A decent HID projector will run you about $100, ballast will be another $50, HID bulbs another $40, headlight buckets, plus relay AND all of the work to make the conversion. After all is said and done, you have a cheap (but legal) HID setup... A quality HID bulb runs about $100!!!
Not to mention all that HEAT and AMP draw on the system. These use such low amp/wattage. The only concern would be for northerners with snow conditions.. There's no heat to melt snow from the lens. I don't worry about that stuff in FL.
Its interesting for the quality of light and consumption. But what I have now(I have the european halogen with bulb separate from projector ,Im sorry but i dont know the word in english), if the light blowing I can only change the bulb (with little expense). With these, I have to change the whole block (with high costs).However I'm sure it's a great upgrade, and I will buy it.
Its interesting for the quality of light and consumption. But what I have now(I have the european halogen with bulb separate from projector ,Im sorry but i dont know the word in english), if the light blowing I can only change the bulb (with little expense). With these, I have to change the whole block (with high costs).However I'm sure it's a great upgrade, and I will buy it.
Yes correct, you'll have to replace the unit as a whole. The 3 year warranty is helpful, lets see how they perform. Good thing is if one goes, you only have to replace the single side because LED doesnt change light color/brightness over time.
Not as expensive if you factor a proper HID (cheap and legal) conversion. A decent HID projector will run you about $100, ballast will be another $50, HID bulbs another $40, headlight buckets, plus relay AND all of the work to make the conversion. After all is said and done, you have a cheap (but legal) HID setup... A quality HID bulb runs about $100!!!
Having gone the high quality HID projector retrofit route on my FC, I agree with most of this ^. Cost wise, I spent about $350 all in; almost $300 of that was for a pair of Morimoto Mini H1 bi-xenon projectors, the Morimoto XB35 (35W, 4300K) HID bulbs, and the required Morimoto ballasts. The rest was for the Pilot sealed beam halogen conversion housings I used, a relay kit, some tefzel wire, misc. connectors & expendables I needed to do it right. Technically, HID retrofits can never be "legal", simply because you are not swapping in a DOT compliant sealed beam replacement bulb! BUT if done properly, an HID projector's beam pattern & performance will meet DOT compliance standards on the road.
Originally Posted by Relisys190
Not to mention all that HEAT and AMP draw on the system. These use such low amp/wattage. The only concern would be for northerners with snow conditions.. There's no heat to melt snow from the lens. I don't worry about that stuff in FL.
How many watts are your GE LEDs specified to consume in low/high beam modes? Like you, I was initially looking at LEDs as the best plug & play solution, but the cost of quality units (JW Speaker 8900's, your GE LEDs, and a few others) was ridiculous at the time - averaged around $500/pair. Anyway, I recall the total power consumption specs on these high buck LEDs were similar to a regular halogen bulb - 55W at high beam, so no appreciable power savings. So if that's still true, the standard 35W HIDs will consume less power than their LED equivalents.
As for heat, it's true that the LEDs will stay cool at the lens face, but they do generate plenty of heat that is typically dissipated out the back side of the housing - either via a heat sink, an internal fan or both depending on make/design.
Having gone the high quality HID projector retrofit route on my FC, I agree with most of this ^. Cost wise, I spent about $350 all in; almost $300 of that was for a pair of Morimoto Mini H1 bi-xenon projectors, the Morimoto XB35 (35W, 4300K) HID bulbs, and the required Morimoto ballasts. The rest was for the Pilot sealed beam halogen conversion housings I used, a relay kit, some tefzel wire, misc. connectors & expendables I needed to do it right. Technically, HID retrofits can never be "legal", simply because you are not swapping in a DOT compliant sealed beam replacement bulb! BUT if done properly, an HID projector's beam pattern & performance will meet DOT compliance standards on the road.
How many watts are your GE LEDs specified to consume in low/high beam modes? Like you, I was initially looking at LEDs as the best plug & play solution, but the cost of quality units (JW Speaker 8900's, your GE LEDs, and a few others) was ridiculous at the time - averaged around $500/pair. Anyway, I recall the total power consumption specs on these high buck LEDs were similar to a regular halogen bulb - 55W at high beam, so no appreciable power savings. So if that's still true, the standard 35W HIDs will consume less power than their LED equivalents.
As for heat, it's true that the LEDs will stay cool at the lens face, but they do generate plenty of heat that is typically dissipated out the back side of the housing - either via a heat sink, an internal fan or both depending on make/design.
From what i've read on specifications of the GE LED, the light output matches a 55watt bulb but the actual unit it self uses 12.5? watts low and 38 watts on HIGH beam with both LED's emitting light. My decision was between these GE LED and the JW Speaker 8900. I chose to GE based on the look of the front lens being a better fit for stock looks but I have heard the JW Speaker is the better performing LED for this application.
an HID set up gets its own power through a relay, so it bypasses the factory wiring in that regard
not as easy as what you did, I would say the aesthetics of it are a matter of preference as that line in the middle is a deal breaker for me, being only visible when lights are up not a deal breaker in the least
no kits, no assembly required and DOT legal- seems like a good alternative so long as it can throw light down the road and not just in front of you
I don't want to deviate from the subject of the thread too far- so I will say these headlights look really nice!
But I must say- please post your solution either in this thread or make a new one for the fog light dilemma when you arrive at a conclusion. (What wires need to go where for fogs and high beams on at the same time.) In my '00 camaro it was as simple as running a ground wire or two.
01-25-19, 10:05 AM
