1989_N/A

Ok, so after some consideration to what ReTed siad to me in another thread I am going to make a drag car. Not full on NHRA but close. I was wondering, to cut down on electircal current being sent all over the car, are there any gauges that I can convert to mechanical gauges from electric?

Also, I have this hose coming out of my firewall:



What is it and where does it go? Its cut off and the pipe inside appears crushed to some extent. I dont remember taking it off so I am assuming that it wasn't hooked up. Im hoping this isnt the cause of my engine getting screwed. Any help??

Mechanic

heater core if i remember right

clokker

iTrader: (2)

That's a hose to (or from, not sure) the heater core.

You can replace your oil pressure and water temp gauges with mechanical ones but you can't convert the stockers from electric to mechanical.

1989_N/A

So, since I am taking out my whole heater and Logicon stuff, I can remove that hose?? Will it effect anything on the motor??

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

you will have to reroute your ''plumbing''. Easy fix.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

That hose connects to a nipple on the rear iron that you will have to cap off.

Assuming you keep the stock radiator, there is a nipple on the lower hose fitting that the other side of the heatercore connects to...you'll have to cap that as well.

1989_N/A

What do you mean by reroute my plumbing? Like where that hose comes off the motor to where it goes back? Just bypass the heater core and run one pice of hose from the one nipple to the other?

phoenix7

Make sure whatever was used to cap the heater lines is still intact. I've seen the caps be come brittle and leak which could eventually lead to overheating.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The return from your heatercore should be here...

There would have been a short piece of hose that connected to a metal pipe that ran down the passenger side frame rail and ultimately connected to the lower radiator fitting.
I suppose you could just go from the fitting on the rear iron to the metal line- in effect, bypassing the heatercore- but that seems jury rigged and just a failurepoint for a highly stressed system. In essence, you'd just have a rather long external loop of pressurized water doing nothing.

Better, I should think, to remove the nipple from the rear iron when you do your engine build (by whatever method seems best) and use a rad without the return nipple.

1989_N/A

Thanks for all the help guys. I was a bit worried that the hose was something that couldnt be done without and I would have to replace the hose and inside piping. Thanks again for yalls help.