What's the best way or tool, chemical to remove stubborn gasket on my oil pump front housing? I tried soaking it already on Diesel but still no luck. Your input will be highly appreciated.

 

A razor blade.

 

^^^+1

 

Yea, a razor or a wire wheel.

 

Tried and done that. That's why I am asking for a special tool or chemical to remove stubborn gasket. Thanks anyway.

 

3m disks on a die grinder but be gentle.

 

^^ No. Putty knife (the metal one) and then razor blade.

 

Putty knife, you will just have to keep going till it is all of

 

I use those "scrubby pad" things that used to remove paint.They make them to put in a drill.
They are about 3-12 inch in diameter and a half inch thick,they take the crap off without killing the aluminum.
You can get them at any Walmart in the Tool section.

 

Thank you misterstyx9.

 

Its called a rotolock, and the pad is actually a fine 3m scotchbrite pad. Some manufacturers (Ford, GM, some others) tells their techs not using these in any area where the particles, "dust", from the pad might enter the engine. So I would be careful. I believe gasket remover has the same ingredients as paint thinner, so that should work. I have used brake cleaner before with success.

 

Some PB Blaster and a sharp putty knife followed up by a razor blade. Spray some PB on it and walk away for 15-30 minutes then just go slow with the putty knife to take off the bulk of the gasket material, use the razor blade for final cleanup. Spray more PB when you start to cut down to the dry gasket material.

 

I bought all new housings so Im going to try to use my old housing as an "experiment"

what experiment? Im going to use Roloc system with bristle brush and see if it works better. Honda guys use it to clean their hand gasket with 100% success rate without messing their aluminum head up.

after I clean it, I will send it off for professional analyst. then we will know if it works

 

ive used rolocs with great success. i can see where if you go nuts with it you could damage things.

best place to learn maybe is the oil pan rails, it would be hard to screw those up to where it didn't matter.

 

good point, as I bought Pineapple racing's pan so the old stock pan is kinda useless anyway ...

 

^^as said in post 6 the 3m discks are great but just be carefull. I keep old worn ones in a separate box for just that occasion. I just bolted up two separate four cylinder heads just today and used them on each. Ive never had a comeback in many of years of anything leaking. Just dont be a jackass and go full go with a new disk and all is ok. And as stated in post 11 some car companies even have tsb's against it but if you use common sense and clean up properly your fine.

 

i think the biggest problem is that most idiots just turn their drill/whatever they use at full speed with it ... especially wrench monkeys working at dealerships, they simply don't give a **** and always **** things up.

Even 3m said never use full speed use low-med and gently rub it over the surface.

the bristle bush I bought should be even more gentle than pads. we'll see how it goes. I'm just waiting for 3m to ship me the roloc pad as I already got the bushes.

 

3M disks rules! thank you all.

 

I think I've been calling it the wrong thing for a long time. Roloc.

Do you guys use the blue ones for aluminum?

 

for my application, Green is hardest, Yellow is medium, white is softest.

dunno about blue.