K so i wanted to change the pump. well that turned into a pain. Screws where so rusty and old that when trying ot get them out they started to break. so we took a easy out to it from sears well that broke. so now we had screws with holes in them. so then I tool some long pliers to them and some came comletely out and some didnt. I was able to get about 4 or 5 screws back on there and tighten them down. I put hight temp sealent around it. All the way home last night it was fine even under WOT. But the gast tank was on a Quarter tank.

Now today I went to fill up all the way and guess what, it came out when you hit the throttle. at idle its fine but ones you hit the pedal even just to slowly mover it comes pouring out. I noted when I got home. lucky for me it didnt hit the exhaust and catch fire.


Question is, can I remove the cap again and put JB WELD on there, then put the cap back on and then the remaing four or five bolts? Let the JB weld dry and perhaps put some on the side? OR will it stil creat a lot of pressure when filling up and such that it will break the JB weld?

 

Not if you ever need to change your pump again. Drill and tap the broken screws and buy all new screws with allen heads. Make sure the gasket is intact, if not buy or make one.

Most silcone sealants, if that is what you used, are not fuel compatable, check your labels.

 

JB Weld would be a dumbass idea. Do as trochoid said. As far as getting those rusted screws out of the tank next time...

If the phillips head is rounded off, just get a pretty sharp tipped flat screwdriver and a little hammer. Put the tip on the side of one of the screws and hit it with the hammer to make a little indention on the side of the screw. Then, hold the screwdriver in the indention and put the screwdriver at an angle so that when you hit it with the hammer again it will knock the screws counter-clockwise and loosen them up. Thats what I had to do, and it worked great.

 

Ok the screws that couldnt come out are out. the holes are plugged by the old ones I dont thing drilling would be good ideas seeing that thte tank has 16 gallons of fuel in it. I am not worried about replacing the fuel pump. its brand new and so it sock. Should last another 100,000 miles i hope. Acutally the old one was still going strong. I just didnt want it go out.

I know JB weld is rigging it up. But will this work? If I dry of the erea, then put the JB WELD on and put the cover on and use the remaining scres to hold in place. Do you think JB weld has enought strenght to hold up to the fule and pressure of fuel expanding or filling up in heat?

I am open to all suggestion. although taking out the new fuel and then driling is not as i dont have anywhere to puthte 16 gallons of fuel and dont wanto to waste it either.

 

Your tank has a drain plug, get some spare gas cans, draw the tank down. You can tape over the opening, then drill and retap the the threads (duct tape will work). If you put a gob of axle grease where you are drilling and tapping, it will catch most all of the metal shavings. And no, J-B Weld is not a proper sealant for you intended application.

Do it right the first time. Ghetto rigging things like this always seem to come back and bite one in the ***. If the fuel sending unit goes out, then what are you going to do?

 

I hope it doesnt go out. Plus after getting the fuel out, dont you think it would waste the fuel? cant reuse it can I. I have heard that not a good idea.

as far using screws, are you saying get some self taping scres then and or how about some bolts with lock washer?

 

Use clean gas cans, and filter the fuel when you pour it back in. If the fuel level is down far enough, which it probably is, then just tape over the opening.

Do not use self tapping screws. Go to the hardware store and match the screws that you removed for diameter, length and thread pitch. Just buy the ones that have allen heads instead of phillips.

 

Very good solid answer