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gas smell in oil

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Old May 11, 2006 | 02:40 AM
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gas smell in oil

Hello fellow drivers, i have some tech questions about my car after doing a search i could not find a clear answer. i can see my question has been discussed before so dont be mad that im asking because in the discussions it seems no solution was found.
i have an S4 car with stock 13B drivetrain and no turbo.
i did an oil change around 1000kms ago but my oil smells like gas really bad. it doesnt look dirty (it looks used but its still good looking) why would this happen? it also smells like fuel in the exhaust. is this typical to a 13B? or is there something wrong i should fix?

now my other question is. i panicked that my engine might be broken if i have fuel in the oil (maybe you guys can help by telling me its a simple fix) so i was looking around to see what a 13B is worth. i found a guy who had one on ebay i talked to him a bit and came to see the engine if its worth buying. he said its a rebuild 50K ago is there something i can look at to verify the work? or do i have to take his word on it and hope for the best? for example i was told with transmission to look for glue on them cuz that means they were opened at sometime. is there a similar policy for 13B engines?

i appreciate the assistance everyone can offer and hopefully in the future i can return the favor by contributing my own help.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 02:41 AM
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PS. i tried to coolant cap off test and had no overflow so my seals should still be ok.
i just passed emissions testing so the air/fuel mix should be fine.
i did however recently put in fuel injector cleaner through the tank. would this be the cause?

Last edited by pat123; May 11, 2006 at 02:58 AM.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 06:02 AM
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A small amount of fuel in the engine oil is not unusual, especially for a rotary engine. Of course, excessive amounts of fuel in the oil would, indeed, suggest a problem. The smell test is not a particularly accurate measure of the amount of fuel in the oil so if you are really concerned about it, I would suggest that you have the oil analysed at a lab such as Blackstone Labs. It is not very expensive.

Excessive amounts of fuel in the engine oil can be caused by leaking fuel injectors that continue to dump fuel into the combustion chamber after the engine is shut off. Flooding the engine at startup can also result in excessive amounts of fuel in the oil. I'm sure there are other potential causes as well. Have the oil tested.

I would not assume that your engine is failing just because you have a bit of fuel in the oil. If you have other symptoms of a failing engine, that's another thing. And if that's the case, you should do a compression test to determine the relative health of the engine.

BTW, IMO, if you are considering purchasing a used engine, you should also consider doing a complete rebuild before installing it into your car. Doesn't make sense to take a chance on the "new" engine being as bad or worse than the one you are replacing. So considering that, you might be better off just rebuilding your existing engine or purchasing a newly rebuilt engine from a reputable source.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 07:01 AM
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what are the symptoms when engine is flooded/flooding? when the car is hot it can take two or three attempts to start the car. where i am turning the key and its spinning and wont catch and then again (but turns over cold no problem) ..... i dont pump the gas the start the car or anything.

Last edited by pat123; May 11, 2006 at 07:11 AM.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 07:02 AM
  #5  
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From: St Louis
Originally Posted by pat123
Hello fellow drivers, i have some tech questions about my car after doing a search i could not find a clear answer. i can see my question has been discussed before so dont be mad that im asking because in the discussions it seems no solution was found.
i have an S4 car with stock 13B drivetrain and no turbo.
i did an oil change around 1000kms ago but my oil smells like gas really bad. it doesnt look dirty (it looks used but its still good looking) why would this happen? it also smells like fuel in the exhaust. is this typical to a 13B? or is there something wrong i should fix?

now my other question is. i panicked that my engine might be broken if i have fuel in the oil (maybe you guys can help by telling me its a simple fix) so i was looking around to see what a 13B is worth. i found a guy who had one on ebay i talked to him a bit and came to see the engine if its worth buying. he said its a rebuild 50K ago is there something i can look at to verify the work? or do i have to take his word on it and hope for the best? for example i was told with transmission to look for glue on them cuz that means they were opened at sometime. is there a similar policy for 13B engines?

i appreciate the assistance everyone can offer and hopefully in the future i can return the favor by contributing my own help.
1, Fuel odor in oil, is fairly normal. If it's really bad, have the fuel injectors cleaned and flow tested. cruzinperformance.com is very reasonably priced. If that doesn't fix it, then your engine internals are probably worn. IIRC it's the side seals and possibly worn irons.

As far as the replacement engine, I'd check the compression. I don't have time to go into detail of how to do it but if you search, you'll find what you need.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 07:13 AM
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From: CANADA
i ran fuel injector cleaner through the car in my last tank and so i wonder if the cleaning of the injectors may have soiled the oil?
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Old May 11, 2006 | 08:05 AM
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also sometimes the car sometimes stalls while warm and going slow speeds like parking lots and stuff.
also do all 13B get gas in the oil? and do i have to change the oil? or is it fine/safe?
and the last time i changes it i dont think it smelled but i did have a neighbor checking my car out, i let him sit in it and turn it on and whatever but he pumped the gas.... is it possible that just this one action from this idiot caused that?

Last edited by pat123; May 11, 2006 at 08:25 AM.
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Old May 11, 2006 | 04:00 PM
  #8  
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I have the same problem but thats because my pump is upgraded. You should certainly get it tested. As everyone said a little isn't bad because its normal but a lot will break down the oil and the oil will not lubricate the bearings well, therefor causing them to wear. Too much gas will actually remove the lubrication from the inside of the combustion chamber, housing and rotor face, but thats only in extreme conditions. Arron Cake told me this. I have gotten a FPR to solve my problem. A lot of people say that non turbo's run a little rich anyway. Its probably not a lot to worry about.

Chris
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Old May 12, 2006 | 08:41 AM
  #9  
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From: St Louis
Originally Posted by pat123
also sometimes the car sometimes stalls while warm and going slow speeds like parking lots and stuff.
also do all 13B get gas in the oil? and do i have to change the oil? or is it fine/safe?
and the last time i changes it i dont think it smelled but i did have a neighbor checking my car out, i let him sit in it and turn it on and whatever but he pumped the gas.... is it possible that just this one action from this idiot caused that?
Perhaps you shoud re read my post.
Fuel odor in oil is fairly normal.
Pumping the gas shouldn't have any effect on oil dillution. Remember, these cars are EFI.

I don't believe in pour it in the tank fuel injector cleaners. I have never seen one work.

As far as the possibility of your engine flooding, You need to check the compression of the engine. That will tell you if it's shot.

If the compression is good, I recommend sending the injectors to be cleaned. It costs $12 per injector.
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Old May 12, 2006 | 01:24 PM
  #10  
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From: Prov RI
IMO, gas smell in the oil is NORMAL.

If you're are religious with maintenance, like 3k/3mo oil changes, then before you do anything, send a sample of the used oil out for an oil analysis. A UOA is the only way to find out if your fuel dilution is excessive.

If the UOA shows excessive fuel in the oil, then start the debug.

Sending injectors out is a PITA if the Rx is your only car.
Start with the simple stuff like a 'tune-up'.
Plugs/wires/thermostat/air&fuel filters/o2 sensor/temp sensors/TPS/MAF/vacuum leaks/.....and anything that the ECU uses for fueling control should be checked/tested and replaced if out of spec.

Pour in the tank fuel injector cleaners do work. You need to stick with the quality name brands and not the generic $2 crap. I've sent out injectors for cleaning only to find out that they did NOT need cleaning. What a waste of money on my injectors. I'm sticking with FI cleaners every 3 months. Good injector cleaner will also lube and clean carbon.
My ebay and junkyard sourced injectors always need cleaning. This says alot for 'typical consumer' lack of maintenance attitude.
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Old May 13, 2006 | 12:08 AM
  #11  
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wouldnt a malfunctioning Purge Valve or somthing in the Evaporative Emissions System Possiably be the cause? IIRC that system is Vacume controled, so i would think its possiable for somthing to be pulling Gas somewhere. I was told to check that system first... I havnt yet but im going to asap as im having the same Problem...

I really cant think that Gas in the Oil pan would be normal... and it couldnt be any good for the Oil Rings...

Last edited by MrFC3S; May 13, 2006 at 12:10 AM.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 03:38 AM
  #12  
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ok. now im worried. i wasnt driving the car with the oil/gas smell until i knew it was safe. so i took it out and while driving it up a short hill it started blowing blue smoke. a lot. it even smoked the cabin up. i pulled over and checked my oil level and noticed it was barely reading on the stick.
i topped the oil back up. then i put in an additive to help it not burn up again and it has not burnt up since then but im also not reving it very high either.
does this change anyones reply?

Last edited by pat123; May 22, 2006 at 03:41 AM.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 07:41 AM
  #13  
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Don't bother with any additives. Most of them are worthless.

You need to find a competent rotary mechanic and have him do a compression test to determine if the seals in your engine are faulty. A "standard" engine compression test will not tell you what the compression is on all faces of the rotor, so don't bother having a non-rotary-smart mechanic do the test.

There is a way to do a less-than-precise compression test using a regular compression tester. This procedure will tell you if one or more apex seals have totally failed, but it will not provide the precise data needed to determine if your compression is at a point where the engine needs a rebuild. Go to the Tech section of www.rotaryresurrection.com for instructions on how to do such a test.
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