Gas in my oil? :(
09-13-10, 01:44 PM
#1
Passion for Racing
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Crown Point, Indiana
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Gas in my oil? :(
So i havent been able to get my S4 to start, and i put it up on the lift, looked around and noticed that my oil drain plug was leaking. so i took it off and was draining my oil and noticed it had a very strong gas scent. What would be the most likely cause?
09-13-10, 02:11 PM
#3
Passion for Racing
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Crown Point, Indiana
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I found out that the spark plugs were not matching L>L and T>T. I had two Trailing plugs on my rear housing and the plugs reversed L>T on my front housing. Could that potentially create flooding problems?
09-13-10, 02:14 PM
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,835
Received 2,604 Likes
on
1,847 Posts
vacuum leaks, bad/poor injector seals, and dirty old injectors are the big vacuum leak culprits, although after 25 years everything else can be bad too
09-13-10, 02:18 PM
#5
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
How many miles are on it? Smelly oil is normal.
How has it been maintained. You probably have a leaky injector and flooded the car bad. You also should consider a new pulsation dampener for saftey if you haven't.
How has it been maintained. You probably have a leaky injector and flooded the car bad. You also should consider a new pulsation dampener for saftey if you haven't.
Trending Topics
09-14-10, 11:09 AM
#9
Boost makes cars smile.
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: ...
Posts: 1,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Think of a rotory as a large, bastard of a two-stroke.
Chainsaws, ATVs dirtbikes, these all use an amount of 'pre-mix' or really REALLY light diesel - a combination of oil in gas.
The reason WE need this is because unlike a conventional engine, the rotory doesn't have a separation of oil and combustion chambers, and so oil in the gas helps the apex seals (think of them like piston rings) glide along the rotor housing, keeping your adjoining combustion areas sealed.
OVER mixing (too MUCH oil in the gas will not only make the combustion chambers all icky-like (massive carbon build-ups, etc) but will also lead to killing other bits, by proxy.
The FIRST thing you should do, when you rectify your plugs problem (AFTER changing your oil) is to do a compression test and make sure your seals are good. This will help settle both your mind and a couple of potential concerns.
As well, adding a tiny (when I say tiny, I mean, like DROPS) of brake fluid into the trailing (top) spark plug holes. I've heard that this has helped people, but haven't done this, myself. What this will do is help burn up all the CRAP in the original chamber and clean crap out, a bit (though, from my understanding wil smoke like a 420 festival).
If anyone else has anything to add or amend, please do. The brake fluid bit, as I said, is not from personal experience and I'd like to hear from someone who's done it.
Chainsaws, ATVs dirtbikes, these all use an amount of 'pre-mix' or really REALLY light diesel - a combination of oil in gas.
The reason WE need this is because unlike a conventional engine, the rotory doesn't have a separation of oil and combustion chambers, and so oil in the gas helps the apex seals (think of them like piston rings) glide along the rotor housing, keeping your adjoining combustion areas sealed.
OVER mixing (too MUCH oil in the gas will not only make the combustion chambers all icky-like (massive carbon build-ups, etc) but will also lead to killing other bits, by proxy.
The FIRST thing you should do, when you rectify your plugs problem (AFTER changing your oil) is to do a compression test and make sure your seals are good. This will help settle both your mind and a couple of potential concerns.
As well, adding a tiny (when I say tiny, I mean, like DROPS) of brake fluid into the trailing (top) spark plug holes. I've heard that this has helped people, but haven't done this, myself. What this will do is help burn up all the CRAP in the original chamber and clean crap out, a bit (though, from my understanding wil smoke like a 420 festival).
If anyone else has anything to add or amend, please do. The brake fluid bit, as I said, is not from personal experience and I'd like to hear from someone who's done it.
09-14-10, 11:28 AM
#10
No, gas in the oil. What happens is that normally in a rotary, the oil in the crankcase is slowly consumed. The level drops, you top it up.
If you block off the OMP and then premix, the crankcase oil is not consumed. All the blowby unburned gas can accumulate in the oil. This is magnified if you are adding extra fuel to a turbo with increased boost and power. The oil level can actually rise in the crankcase. Imagine what happens to the lubrication ability of the oil.
There are quite a few old threads regarding this phenomenon. I read up on this before making the decision to NOT block-off the OMP (and go Rtek and premix) on my S5 when my OMP took out my ECU.
If you block off the OMP and then premix, the crankcase oil is not consumed. All the blowby unburned gas can accumulate in the oil. This is magnified if you are adding extra fuel to a turbo with increased boost and power. The oil level can actually rise in the crankcase. Imagine what happens to the lubrication ability of the oil.
There are quite a few old threads regarding this phenomenon. I read up on this before making the decision to NOT block-off the OMP (and go Rtek and premix) on my S5 when my OMP took out my ECU.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
smikels
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
3
08-18-15 01:26 PM