SLVRbullet

I pulled the belt, pump, bracket, and kut the lines... What about the lines to the rack???

Can i just solid bolt them??

wrankin

You need to loop them back on each other with a hose. Search the forums for details.

-bill

Latin270

Just curious as to why your removing you P. Pump???

glhs0867

block off all the lines on the steering box.

connect the 2 lines on the rack itself. do not turn the steering wheel before you have everything closed up, or you may bind up your rack, without enough fluid inside the rack to keep it lubricated,.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

There's also another, more thorough way to depower your rack on this forum as well. It involves removing the internal seals on the rack and everything.

FC3S.USD

iTrader: (2)

the easy way is take everything out , then even take the hoses off.

then fill rack with fluid and install the 3 block off bolts .

( just normal bolts cut to the correct lenth )

I forget the pitch and length, but its on the forum somewhere.

initial D is REAL!

go with a manual rack.

If you use the ps rack , DO NOT want to just block off the holes, you need to use a hose and loop them back to each other like wranklin mentioned first.

FC3S.USD

iTrader: (2)

Why do you HAVE to loop ?

Many , many people have done the block off with no problems after a few years of running.

Key part is put pwr stearing fluid in it and then block off.

Oh and if anyone needs the sizes its:

2x M12 x 1.25 aprox 10-15mm then cut to your exact needing

1x M16 x 1.5 aprox 10-15 mm again.

Christopher W.

iTrader: (2)

Just used this method of de-powering my rack.

http://flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

It went perfect. The link is for a Miata but it is basically the same.

I have not got it installed back in the car yet. Well, it doesn't matter anyway. It will be the end of the summer before it is driven again.

But I think it is the best way I have seen so far.

cjbechtel

Just go to your local junk yard and get a manual rack. Mine cost something like $30. The steering is still pretty stiff at a stop with the manual. Much more solid feel while driving though.

initial D is REAL!

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering2.htm

Some people even go as far to have the lines recirculating with a vented resivoir. Your basically fighting the fluid pressure in the rack, it has to do with the piston and those 2 holes.

Manual rack is best

Bama420

iTrader: (1)

Manual rack sucks. The gearing ratio is too high. The 17. whatever power rack converted into manual is best. Driven both.

Just loop the lines together with a spare piece of hose.

TO do it right, follow that Flying Miata link.

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

Writeup by TitaniumTT

Shows how to remove the seals and weld the control valve assembly; by far the best way to do it.

Black91n/a

^Indeed, that is the best way. I did it the FM way the first time on my 17.4:1 rack (archived) and then I did it that way on a 15.2:1 rack and I like it a lot better now, more direct, faster, but a little more effort.

Christopher W.

iTrader: (2)

I wish I had seen this one week ago....

S2-13BT

I just got done with TitaniumTT's method. Haven't installed it back in the car though, and it'll be a few months before it's running again unfortunately.

Went smoothly though.

Zeriel

I need help with this issue, i removed my belt because one of my rubber boots broke, then my PS fluid leaked out completely, my friend says my seal broke, i just clam the boot back on, can i keep driving like this? or do i have to get a new rack? Thanks

Black91n/a

The boot is there to keep crap out, not to keep the fluid in, your rack's broken, get a new one.

Zeriel

Damn how long will ill be able to drive with this one? is it difficult to change? Is there a write up i could use?

Black91n/a

Not particularly and you need to get yourself a manual, either Haynes or the FSM that you can download off the net.